Don Coatney

Dave; I was driving through Knoxville a couple of weeks ago and I spotted an antique car lot on the north side of I-40. It appeared they had several cars from the 30's through the 60's. Have you ever been there and what can you tell us about there inventory and prices?

Just bought these. It is a pleasure to do business with Neil Riddle. Questions and answers below. Neil; Will these work on my P-15 for the piece of chrome behind the rear door above the fender? Don Coatney Hi, Don - yes, I just tried them on a piece of the P-15 trim, they do fit just fine... Hope you're doing well & Happy Holidays! Neil

Allan; First off the last few e-mails I sent you bounced. My "ex" used to accuse me of wanting too much. She put a pebble in my shoe and made me limp. Now down to the nuts and bolts. Here is an exploded view of your S-10 T-5.

Nice try Reg; I think you will have to do better to score a homer!

Norm; I dont like to use ether as it puts me to sleep. Today was the first time I have pulled the plugs in months. The plugs I removed today were wet as I suspected. The stacked air cleaners do work well as I have had no fouling after I did that. I do think I will evolve to K&N filters. Might have to ask Santa for a pair. Er what I ment to say was a pair of filters.

Lou; You should buy a sparkplug sand blaster. Around 12-14 bucks at Harbour Freight or JC Whitney.

Lou; To test dwell the distributor shaft must be spinning.

Dropped in a clean set of plugs and she fired right up. Drove around the block and the speedometer is making so much racket I returned home. Guess I need to do some winter maintenance.

I parked my car outside for the past week so Lisa could park her car in the garage. I tried to start my car this morning and it does not want to go. Plenty of battery and it turns over well. I do have fuel to the carburetors. I will go pull and clean the plugs and see if that helps.

Has anyone ever used new plastic christmas tree style clips to attach stainless trim such as this piece pictured below?

Rodney; If the key were left on chances you fried the points or coil or both.

Dave; I spoke with my machinist when I was at the point in my project of re-bushing the pedals. I had a slight amount of side to side play but it was not too bad. My machinist told me that he could re-bush the pedals but the materials he had available to make this repair were inferior to the original stuff Mopar used 58 years ago. He recommended I put the original setup together and run with it so I did so.

Norm is correct per my book too. Point gap .020" and dwell 36-38 degrees. I have converted my Desoto flathead 6 to dual points but the way I adjusted the dwell on the bench will work for single points too. As I did not have a distributor machine I used an electric drill and a 6 volt power supply to set the dwell on the bench. I locked my drill trigger switch in the on position with the distributor shank chucked up. The drill I used runs at 550 RPM's and this is equal to 1100 engine RPM's as the distributor spins at half of the engine speed. I started with the base setting for point gap and then adjusted the dwell by re-adjusting the point gap with the distributor spinning while observing the dwell meter. As I have mentioned many times before the advantage of using dual points allows a closer point setting and increased dwell time for better coil saturation time and a hotter spark. With the dual point setup the point gap base setting is .017". The final dwell is 46-48 degrees. The dual point backing plate has anchor pins that are slightly offset. One set of points opens first and before they close the second set of points opens thus allowing a longer dwell time. At the reduced point gap there is less arching and point life is extended. Should one set of points fail while on the road I can simply remove the wire from the failed set and use the second set to continue after I adjust the ignition timing.

Tim; Pull the plugs to eliminate this.

Ed; Watched the movie once again yesterday and you are correct. This car appeared several times in the movie. Still a great movie!

Me in Ohio in my invincible suciadial years in the early 70's.

Looks more like a bottemer than a topper.

I could spin my engine with a rag (to protect my hands) over the teeth of the flywheel after my rebuild. It was stiff but it was consistent (no binding). I also spun my engine on the bench with the starter for a oil pressure and compression check.

When I lived near Fresno there was a place just like this south of Shaw on Blackstone. Might be the same place but they relocated. They had there stuff priced well above market value. I think Bob has a very fair price on his car.

Looks more like a subdivision than a surburban.

Bob; Hope your car finds a good home. Not sure what the best avenue to sell it on would be. But I am sure someone will grab it up. You might want to adjust the decimal point in your overbore and head milling numbers. Should be .060" and .070". Not .0060" and .0070".

Dennis; I really like the Desoto Wood grain dash in this car. As my car is already Desoto powered I may re-do my dash in that pattern if and when I ever re-do my dash. Thanks for posting.

Tod; You should know that coffee breaks have priority at BMV offices:D