dgrinnan

I have another example. My friend has a 1963 Ford PU. His rear wheel cylinder failed and he needed to replace it. He went to the local auto parts chain store and they had one in stock for his 63 Ford. He went home, installed and long story short, the brand new out of the box Chinese wheel cylinder leaked. He went to a different regional auto parts chain and purchased a different brand wheel cylinder. It install without incident.

Makes since why none of us have them on our truck

Here is a picture of what I assume is what you are referencing from DCM Classics website. I don't have them and I wonder if I need them. I talked to the owner at DCM. I purchased their metal version of the rear cross member. It runs into the bottom of the side pocket and when you bolt through the pocket and the steel cross member I think it serves the same purpose as the "L" bracket. It is to prevent the bed sides from flaring out when the tailgate is open. BP-330 Rear cross member "L" bracket

That picture was taken before I got the piece you are referring to. I do have that piece installed now. Thanks for the pictures. At least I know mine is correct.

Is the piece of sheet metal across the back of the attached photo a standard piece or custom? The other pic shows my truck. I am getting ready for anew paint job and I am trying to figure out my options for finishing the back of the truck. I might eventually add a bumper but not right now.

I have a new fuel pump on my 1947 1/2 ton with a 218. It is a Carter fuel pump. Should the outflow connection be a standard flare or a double flare. A mechanic that was helping me said I should do a double flare but it does not seem to seat very well and if I put any stress (wiggle gently) on the line it want to leak. I am afraid to over tighten it. Is it designed for a single flare? Did they even have double flare in 1947 or does it even make any difference either way?

Yes, at this point I am relived it did not cause any damage and it is a simple repair/replacement.

The exhaust. It will probably remain a mystery. I am just glad I was able to locate a new valve and don't have to pull the entire engine for a complete valve job.

The valve weld makes since as to it being a week point but the flathead 6 is not an OHV engine. No chance of an impact.

I brought my 1947 back to life after not being started for over 20 years. It would run but appeared to have a stuck valve. I poured a variety of solvents into the cylinder and ran the engine hoping the valve would free itself. I got to a point where my patients ran out and I decided to bite the bullet and pull the head. I would have been waiting a long time for the valve to heal itself. The head of the valve was broken completely off. I have ordered a replacement valve. It did give me a chance to take a peak inside the engine. Despite the broken valve the interior of the engine looked very clean. Fingers crossed, after replacing the valve I can get this thing running like a sowing machine. I still haven't been able to figure out why the valve would have broke.

Thanks. I was making a bad assumption thinking larger hub caps would be on the trucks. DCM has 9" listed for the trucks is why I asked. 9" it is then.

I have seen both 9" and 10" hubcaps available that say they are for the 47 WC 1/2 ton. From what I gather, the size difference is only the outside diameter. Both sizes fit the clip configuration and are interchangeable. Does anyone know what would have come on the truck in 1947? 9" or 10"?

A friend has a 1972 Chevy El Camino. He was at a car show when people started hearing loud pops. It sounded like someone was throwing rocks against his doors. He did an inspection and could not find anything. Later, more of the same. It was not until he was getting into his El Camino that he discovered the popping noise was the Chinese hinge bolts braking from the weight of his doors. He opened his driver side door and it literally came off in his hand.

I will have to look at the Ford bumper. The truck came with a 50s Chevy bumper and brackets. I didn't realize until I tried to mount it that it was wrong.

I am not opposed to another bumper that looks like it belongs. I saw the DCM after market ones. Trying to avoid that expense if possible. If someone knows what make/years look right let me know.

Rear bumpers for a 47 1/2 ton are like the unicorn of truck parts. How are you guys finishing the rear of your truck without a bumper?

I know it comes with the territory, over priced after market parts when you are dealing with a 75 year old vehicle but I was a little caught off guard. First, instead of the Chinese brand I decided to spend a littel more and get some good ole American based parts. I knew some of the manufactoring had moved to Mexico but at least it was still North America. I am referring to Raybesto. The name has been around for years so I assumed a certain level of quality. I ordered new wheel cylinders for my 47 1/2 ton. Imagine my shock when I received them and there was a sticker right on the side of the wheel cylinders that said "Made in China". At this point I was stuck. I already had them after waiting over a week and most places did not have them in stock. I went ahead and installed them. Here is the next kicker. After they were installed I was bleeding the system. The bleeder valve on a wheel cylinder for a 1947 Dodge was metric. After a few choice words I had to wiggle and roll to get my ass out from under the truck which was a major choir to get under so I could go to the tool box for a metric wrench.

I purchase new rubber boots (draft seals) for my brake and clutch pedal. Has anyone figured out how to install them The pedals are not removable from the shaft. I can't slip them on from the top. If I disconnect the pedals at the other end it also looks to large to slip them on (and a real pain removing them). Did you slit them to get them on.

It took a while but I finally got to removing my rear hubs/drums. I was very nervous about some of the accounts of beating on the dog bone, walking away for a while and beating on them again. I was very lucky. I tightened the hub puller, gave it a couple smacks and the hub popped right off.

Does anyone know of a source to get specifications for brake drums? I am looking to have a brake drum turned and I am trying to find the specifications regarding the minimum thickness of the drum when they are turned. I don't know if the drum is serviceable or not.

thanks for all the replies. I see how my use of front and rear could be confusing. I m talking about the front wheels. The outer bearing pops right out. I was asking about removing the inner bearing.

I have my front brakes tore down for replacement. Working on a wheel cylinder rebuild. while I am at it and have everything apart I was wondering about the wheel bearings. the front bearing is easy. It comes right out when you remove the axle nut and washer. Is the rear bearing pressed or can I tap it out. I haven't taken a real good look at it yet. Is there possibly a spring clip?

UPDATED 9/13/22 - THIS JUST KEEPS GETTING BETTER AND BETTER. I HAVE MY FRONT BRAKES TORE DOWN. I AM REBUILDING THE WHEEL CYLINDERS AND FIND MY BRAKE DRUMS/HUBS ARE IN BAD SHAPE. SO FAR THE ONLY OPTION I HAVE FOUND IS ON EBAY. NEW ONES ARE $450 EACH. HAS ANYONE COME UP WITH ANOTHER SOLUTION OTHER THAT A DISC BRAKE CONVERSION WHICH WILL COST JUST AS MUCH. $800-$1,000.

Thanks for every ones feedback. It is very helpful just understanding the mechanics of what is going on. I am use to fighting with pulling the drum on a more modern car. Knowing how this is set up keeps me from doing something stupid and causing damage.

Thanks. I figured there was probably more to it.