OUTFXD

Hadnt considered this,. I will have to look into it and get back to you.

Just replaced the needle and seat "just in case".. The seal is amazing, Pressurizes the heck out of the fuel line. Float was about 1/4 inch below carb deck, I changes it to the specified 1/32. No change, Put it back to 1/4. no change. Fuel only reahes about 1/2 way up the float bowl. That I am. I had enough issue getting a thermostat that actually fit the car from the local parts haus, I decided not to push the matter.

Running temp is a dead solid 160. a little higher on 90+ degree days. Just trying to patch her together enough till I can afford a different carb.

Jacquiline has started something new, When she heats up, she starts missing at idle. I have to feather the gas petal to get the RPMs up to start moving, Then she continues to miss upto about 1400 RPM. The longer I drive, the more RPMs she will miss at. I;m about 80% sure this is a carb problem. but, I mean, its a carter B&B1. there is only so much that can go wrong! this may accelerate the "replace the carb" project. p.s. the accelerator pump drip is back.

Not sure if they are welded or rivetted, Makes little differance as the frame is boxed. I have SOME experience Oxy/Acy welding, Which I understand doesnt translate at all.

Most of my body mounts are in good condition. but those on the driver side under the rockers are rotted passed the point of being repaired, I am talking about the metal part that attaches to the frame. All my searches came up with the rubber biscuits that they hold. How easy are these to come buy and how hard are they to install? (Does install require body removal) 1946 Plymouth Special deluxe 2dr coupe

My father would say. If it doesnt fit, Force it, If you cant force it, get a bigger hammer. If it breaks *shrug* it needed to be replaced anyways.

So... Banged my head against the carb some more. Got to complaining about it to my kid. He said "You have the Holy Trinity (Fire, water, air), Check your timing". I trained my boy good. Went out. loosened the bolt holding the Distributor, Gave it a giggle to verify that it was loose, and she fired right up. Drove like a champ! I have to admit I am not sure what to make of it. Is there such a thing as points getting stuck OPEN??? Also, checked the float level with the carb on the car and it was at about 1/4". A tad more than the 1/16th that the book says.

I dont "think" that is the issue. it seems more like the needle is getting stuck shut and starving the engine for fuel. Running the engine with the top of the carburator removed is a good idea and I will try that when I get the car back to my shop. Mechanical Fuel Pump. im pretty sure the float is solid.

I did not know that! Thank you!

Its a Rubber Needle, and I put Led substitute in with each fill up so....

A little more playing and I think the needle and seat are stuck again. What would cause a needle and seat to repeatedly stick? These are fairly new parts (a year or so).

Title says it. Took the carb off and went through it again. Still wont idle, still acts up when the weather is hot, still leaks fuel out the acellerator pump. Thinking on replacing it with a new carb. Friend of mine is pushing for a Weber Carb. I wanted to know what the experts think. 1946 Plymouth Special-Deluxe, 218cid Flathead 6 with a three speed manual transmission, Carter Ball&Ball carb, and no air conditioning.

Just do a little bit every weekend. It adds up fast. and soon you will have a car to be proud of!

And heat the fuel, not alot. but enough to encourage vaporization. Edit: And now that Ive said that I realise I just repeated what Hickory said a few posts back.

2-3% mileage increase may not seam like much, but on a vehicle that gets 50-100 MPG 2-3% increase is actually pretty significant! (Replying to the video)

I love that video! My favorite part is at the end where he is all quite and contemplative "I could release a bitchin Ytube video, but I might get disappeared by the CIA"

Well said! Well said...

Not the "fish system" but it is what I was thinking of, Cant remember what the system was called but Ill keep looking and update when I find out. Keep me informed as to what you find out. After my stroke in 2012 I shifted from modifying cars for horsepower to modifying cars for milage. I had a 93 Geo Metro with 200,000 miles tjat got 56 MPG standard and a one time best of 62 mpg. Mainly through Streamlining and driving practices

I think he is reffering to the "fish" carberator system, that allegedly got 30-60 % fuel mileage increase on a v-8 before the inventor got a visit from the government and the carberator vanished ovbernight.

Trying to figure out the "why" of it all. the brakes started going soft so I added some DoT3 brake fluid. Then They failed. I rebuilt the master cylinder, with NoS components, cleaned it out with Brakeclean and added fresh DoT3, the new components failed nearly immediately . I wouldnt think brakeclean would dissolve components. is it possible this was caused by a "pool" of brakeclean in the master cylinder? Also... DoT3? Not interested in repeating this issue again.

so... Took the Master cylinder apart for the third time. Please remember that this is a NOS item, with less than 10 miles on it. and honestly, it failed in about 2. This is the seal that goes around the outside edge of the piston.

Pulled the master cylinder, tried turning the return valve over but it wouldnt lay flat, returned it to its previous position and it fit perfectly, The brake fluid is full of little black particles and the seal on the piston is WAAAAAY more pliable than it was when I started. is this normal? Using dot3 brake fluid FYI

okay. new problem. I put all the new parts in the master cylinder, ran new brake lines. Pressure built emediately and I had a firm brake petal. Took her out for a test run. I made it 2 or so miles and suddenly the brake petal went to the floor. Total loss of all brake petal pressure. I figured I had failed to tighten one of the new brake lines. Went out this morning. took a look and the master cylinder was low on brake fluid, but didnt appear to be leaking at any of the lines. I refilled and pumped up the brakes. It took some doing, but it built pressure. ass soon as I let off the petal all the pressure went away. Scratching my head I went to top up the master cylinder again and I noticed the whole top of the brake cylinder was wet with brake fluid. I pumped up the brakes. Held them. and nothing happened. But when I released the brake petal, a stream of brake fluid appeared out from under the master cylinder cap. Quite a feat for a not-topped-up master cylinder. I did some observations and it appears to be building pressure INSIDE The brake fluid reservoir, then releasing it out the cylinder cap when I release the petal. What in the world is going on here? HELP!!!

The Cylinder bore looked okay, Felt around with my finger and it was absolutely smooth, No scoring or pitting.