OUTFXD

As my father would say. It it wont move, Force it. If you cant Force it, Get a bigger hammer. If it breaks, *shrug* it needed replacing anyways.

bit of a moot point at this stage but you asked so I will answer. 6v Positive ground. Battery cables where replaced with whatever universal cable the parts shop had on the shelf (they will be replaced with 0 or 1 gauge cables when I can). Rebuild first, Ground cables after. Neither helped it turn over. of course I had the battery disconnect in by then.

ok.... so... I had a battery master disconnect switch. I took everything apart, Cleaned the connections, Put it all back together and nothing. Grasping at straws I pulled the disconnect switch thinking I might get a more solid connection and now the starter spins freely. Didnt start but its 47 degrees out and raining so decided to wait till morning. So apparently the battery disconnect switch was causing the issue. Curious at what point I fixed the starting issue but the disconnect switch became the issue...

Erm... I think i had the battery tested about a month ago. The battery is about a year old. I have been suspicious of the battery since getting the car. also it IS 47 degrees here so i am sure that has SOME impact on the battery.

Been fighting a dragging starter since I got the car. I have replaced all the battery cables. Had the battery tested by the local parts hause. Started using a battery tender. Added Ground straps from the starter to the block. and had the starter professionally rebuilt. My car is currently blocking my friends trailer and he asked me to move the car so he could get to his trailer. Car didnt want to start. It didnt even want to turn over. in an exercise in escalation I eventually ended up turning off all the electrics in the car and jump starting from my (Engine off) Subaru. Still nothing. With the cars hooked together I tries to start the Subaru and IT had a hard time turning over. I disconnected the cars and the Subaru Fired right off. What in the world would cause that kind of Voltage draw?

a

Anyone happen to have a link to The Sluggish Starter thread? I looked but cant find it.

Its weird. doesnt look like ANY of the pictures in the "Identify your flat 6" thread. The P looks like a hand scratched F Then there are a kinda muddled 15. Where the star should be there is a very defined dot then the second series of numbers. They are NOT lined up on the same plane or at the same Vertical angle. It looks for all the world like the digits where stamped in one at a time by hand.

Ahhh thank you! and yes, She's a P-15! I still cant make the numbers out. I guess its time to get my prescription checked again. Thanks again!

Defore doing any actual engine work , I decided to verify which engine I had. The Pad was Rusted over (The entire engine was covered with Rust.... film? The engine looks newly painted with a weird rust film that just wire brushes off, Further reinforcing the belief the car was intentionally "Patinaed" ) I wirebrushed and sanded it but still cant make out the first few digits. Firstfigit kinda looks like a Hand drawn F followed by... 55? Would someone with better Eyesight/Knowledge of Engine Codes help me? Thanks in advance!

I was looking at this exact system and am VERY interested in how it works out for you.

Coated them with Rustoleum and let them sit overnight before demasking.

Cleaned them up with my trusty Black and decker DA sander, Degreased, washed and masked.

Found some rusty metal scrap and decided to cut it into Patch plates to Fix the rotten sections of my floor pan.

If you do anything short of a full clean metal prep (Sandblasting or chem-dipping) Be sure to Use a rust converting Primer. I prefer Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. It will kill whatever rust you miss and prevent future rust growth. It will "Dry to the touch" in 15 minutes. I suggest spraying a coat in the evening and let it sit overnight before going to finish coat (Gotta Get them Paint solvents out).

Check and make sure that all the light bulbs have been changed to 12v bulbs. Also any STOCK Gauges, radio, Heater Blower motor, Fuel gauge sender will need 12v to 6v Voltage reducers/

Happy Turkey day! Fantastic pic!

Wire brushed, washed and coated in Rustoleum. Paint will have to wait. Once I get the hinges loose I will replace the actual cowl vent.

Cowl vent... Hinges? Any advice on how to loosen these up would be appreciated. mine are frozen and trying to "Break them free" flexes the metal they are bolted to.

I am starting to believe the car was intentionally "Patinaed". Crawling around under the dash reviles the dash board itself was replced with a bare steel plate.

I pulled the drain tube from the Cowl vent drip pan and found <Insert dramatic bass score> Pine needles. I blew it out as best I could with some compressed air.

Welcome back to the fold man!

Before after shot.... I find it somewhat cathartic when I look at a finished project and feel kind of Meh until I look at the before picture.

Painted it black. Between dodging moisture and fighting 3 half full cans it didnt cover very well. I plan on some light sanding and repainting.

I am holding out till I replace the cowl vent, witch I am holding until I get the Under dash cleaned up. Just finished with painting the floor so Building patch panels and Repainting the under dash are next up. Thanks for the heads up!