OUTFXD

So strip everything off the fender wells. . I want to replace the battery tray but when I started taking things apart I started breaking bolts.

Tired of the beat up looking engine bay, I decided to plaint it while the starter was out getting rebuilt

True true! I was thinking more along the lines of wiring for the old EI system.

The window across the back of the car, I made the mistake of listening to the sights "Frequently bought together" suggestion

insofar as Transmition/rear end, I am mainly concerned with lowering RPMs at cruise on the freeway. I didnt know the factory overdrive was such a dog! Another topic. Petronix vs 70s Mopar Electronic Ignition. I read an article about swapping our stock innards into a slant six Distributor. Seems like that would be a great way to put Tried and true Electronic Ignition into the car. However it would be WAAAAAAAY more complicated than swapping in a petronix Mag trigger kit. Thoughts?

Tune up was a given, Petronix is already in the plan. Had thought about milling the head to bump up compression but that needs further investigation. all great suggestions though!

Quick question. My rear window weather strip leaks like a sieve. I have a new seal, at the same time I ordered some weather strip adhesive. Watched a video that said the adhesive is not need. So, yes or no, should I use adhesive? Thank in advance!

I plan on keeping the car rather original looking on the outside. I do plan on upgrading to LEDs but want ones that look like original lights, Not interested in "Angel Eyes" or projector lights. I am not terribly concerned with keeping the engine compartment 100% original looking (Though I have put thought to having the 6v generator rewound to 12v neg ground). I am interested in decreasing the Parasitic load of on the motor as a means to increase Efficiency, Performance and lessen Emissions. I have considered upgrading to a overdrive transmition, though that would be a project Whaaaaaaaaay down the line. And yes, I know a flathead motor is not a good starting platform for an efficiency build. but I just love how smooth they run! so I guess you could say I am just taking what I have and making it better.

I live in Washington state. We dont Actually have monsoons, though technically we are a rain forest. I isnt uncommon for it to rain a week straight here during the winter. The locals like to say "The monoons have set in".

Try Seafoaming your engine. Both the Fuel system and the Oil. get ALL the gunk out of your system. only costs $10, Makes a world of difference! https://seafoamworks.com/

Wow! and the plus of being made by a major manufacturer so you are assured a decent level of quality! Out of interest, How big is the Contour fan?

The masking is removed and the trim is replaced. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

The Dash is wire brushed, cleaned, EVERYTHING masked off, Primed with Rustoleum and painted black. (I will strip all the gauges and chrome, etc and spray the ENTIRE dash when we Rewire the car)

The Dash used to be a pseudo wood grain, it is now a sea of surface rust.

The window trim is demasked and the chrome replaced!

The Wing window is masked off and the whole thing gets sprayed electric blue.

The wing window gets a coating of Semi-gloss black

The trim is dechromed. wire brushed to remove loose rust, Degreased, cleaned, and coated with Rustoleum

The trim is carefully removed. I cant figure out how to remove the wing window without destroying the weather strip so it will stay in.

You have seen the exterior, the interior isn't better, The window trim are covered with surface rust, and LOOK at that gooped on Weather strip adhesive!

Also found this for people who want to keep their 6v system. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-6-Volt-Electric-Cooling-Fan,56152.html

so to summerize, a 6 volt system running 20 amps requires about the same power as a 12v system running 10 amps. So swapping to a 12 volt system and adding an electric fan would net a gain of the cost of running a solid fan (about 30 horsepower) minus about 1-2 horsepower. Sorry about this, I dont know a terrible lot about electricity, Beyond it has spent the passed years finding knew and interesting ways to shorten my life!

Ahhhh I forgot about amps. a six volt system pushes more amperage than a 12v system thus requiring a more robust wiring harness and requiring more power to turn the generator. Good point!

I recall watching an episode of Engine-masters (your link as I recall) that claimed 30hp loss for a solid fan vs about 1hp loss from additional drag at the alternator so I would agree that its a reasonable assumption, leading to about a 29 horse power reduction in parasitic drag resulting in Better Performance, Efficiency and reduced emissions. But I would rather know than assume. I haven't seen any data for how much drag it takes to turn a 6v generator vs a 12 alternator both under load and free spinning. All things being equal you can assume producing 12v take twice the drag of producing 6v AT FULL LOAD. But then there is the difference in technology. Better Bearings, Lubricants, Electronics, etc. also Running a 12v system that only pushes 6v could be more efficient than a pure 6 volt system etc etc etc. but it seems to me just spinning a 6v generator and a 12v alternator out of the car take about the same exertion of power (not alot) anyway, I am sure I had a point at the beginning of this, but its lost on me now. so just casting out lines looking for information. Thank you all for your input!

Correct, what I am trying to understand is witch will drag less. IE Subtract the drag from a stock fan and 6v generator and add the drag from a 12v alternator with the additional load from an Electric fan. Witch will have less overall drag on the engine.