Dodgefran

I would like to ask all of you what cut off tool (electric, I don't have access to a big compressor for air tools) can I use to fit in this small area to cut the inside two sides of my B pillar. I plan on rebuilding this by patching on the inside two sides. The rest has strong metal left to weld to. I plan to cut about 4" up. My problem is, 1.) I don't have experience, and 2.) my 4" cutoff wheel may be too big. I definitely need help, and am open to suggestions. Thanks ahead of time.

Say Hey, I don't see a difference in supports/brackets off my truck. The wheel well clears enough to miss it. I have to find out what material was used between the support and fender, if any. Mine were loose when I dismantled them. Good luck to you. Fran

Hello, I too have a 38 Dodge humpback panel truck. I'm looking for a right fender. Mine has a big crease from an accident before I bought it. So I have to either find a fender that's in good shape, or cut the wheel well out of my creased fender and weld it on another fender if I find one. There is a wheel well on Ebay under this title "side-mount spare tire fender well" just plug it in and see what you think. I emailed a yard in Arazona and they wanted $2,000.00 for two rusty ones. That's a little out of my price line. I'm going to try to pound and grind my way through the fenders that I have.

Hi, I'm putting my tie rod structure together from my 38 Dodge RC humpback panel truck (1/2 ton). It was in an accident sometime during it's life and, It seems that the prior owners did some bending of the drag link too, probably for adjustment purposes. It seems quite flimsy though. It got me thinking about upgrading to a 3/4 tone linkage for a bit more stability. Has anyone here done this? Is it worth it? Would it be worth making it myself. I have access to a machine shop near by. I would appreciate some advice. Thank you. Fran

It should be 1933-35. They had better presses for the 36. I have a 36 Dodge D2, and a 38 Dodge humpback panel truck. Their corners aren't as squared off. I'll cross my fingers on this info. It is much bigger than the 1/2 ton's so as has been replied in the above statements 1 to 1-1/2 ton. That's a NICE truck.

I have a 38 Dodge RC Humpback Panel truck that I am trying my hardest to restore. The engine number starts with T58- and is 25" long Desoto 218 ci compaired to my 36 Dodge D2 sedan which has a 23" engine. It took me a few years to decipher "why the difference." But, thanks to this forum, the information came through. I am having the engine rebuilt and it looks like it can be bored out quite a lot more. Thanks guys.

Thank you guys. It's a great help.

The more I read the more questions come up. Has anyone ever found a more modern (70's, 80's) 6 cyl distributor that would fit (stock) in our flatheads. I'm just fishing, mainly because I've never come across that info so far. Thanks in advance. Fran

I've got this big red "smack" mark on my forehead. It got there doing the "Why didn't I think of that" routine". I'll try the local Tractor Supply and trailer dealer, and let you all know what I find. Don, those pictures of yours not only show how it can be done, but they also give a "beginner" like me a lot more confidence in trying things that I normally might not attempt. Thanks to you all. It's greatly appreciated. Fran Aldrich - Cape Cod area.

I am changing my old rear end for a 3.55. After taking measurements, I found that the perches on my donor are 2 1/2 inches wide. The originals are 1 3/4 inch wide. I'm using the original leaf springs. I am going to keep the original in storage in case someone wants it when I decide to sell in the future. Where can I get some 1 1/2 inch wide perches? Will I have to fabricate these? Thanks.

We were working on my truck and the subject of Heim Joints came up. Has anyone used heim joints in place of Tie Rods? If so, then how? Thanks.

Hello, I am having a DeSoto 228 long block (25") engine rebuilt. I've been reading about improving the performance with exhaust headers. Langdon's Stovebolt have a stainless steel header that they fab up with .085" thick pipes. Is that a bit thin for the heat? Do any of you have this setup? My other option could be to take my original exhaust manifold and add another flange opening to it. It all ready has a chunk off the corner of the 4 bolt flange so it has to be repaired anyway. What is the longevity of these options, and who do you trust doing this work? Thanks for your help.

Sorry about that. Mine has a screw on cap located on the side. I have a few other distributors with one of each type of "cup"that was mentioned. Thanks for this education.

I have a 30-40's distributor and was trying to find what type/name of grease was used in the cup on the side to grease the shaft. The numbers are IGS-4010-1 12R 040916. Thanks

Does anyone know if the king pins for the older cars would be the same size as the 1/2 ton trucks? I didn't take my Ginko Beloba and can't remember. Thanks

Hi, I have been reading the forum about what carbs you all use on your flatheads. It has been a bit overwhelming. I have a 1938 DeSoto 228 ci L6 that is being rebuilt completely, and plan on putting either a T5 tranny behind it or a 3.55 rear end on it. I am trying to decide on what carb setup to use. This will be my driver when it's done. It has to be able to handle at least 60 mph. I know these engines range from 15 to 19 mpg. Should I stay with a single carb, duel single barrels, or find a 2 barrel. I want to get as good efficiency as I can. What carb seems to give the least problems (leaking etc.)? Does anyone use the stromberg 97 nos? Are there any carb more efficient than another? Is there a formula for figuring this out? Or is it worth the change at all? Thanks for your help

I do NOTHING exciting. I retired from public school teaching in 2001; running a Martial Arts school (30 yrs) in 2006 due to a guy named Arthur Itus; Found out (in 2004) that my "pension" wasn't going to cut it, so I now work at AutoZone. I pull in "pin money" as a videographer/producer for our local public access TV. I have a Hot Rod show called "Artistry on Wheels" where I interview people about their cars at the local Cruise Nights in the area. Believe me when I say that the older cars are more interesting to hear about than the muscle cars. Some of the techniques used to do body work on the 30's and 40's cars makes for a good show. The muscle cars seem to be a bolt on "rebuild". Anyways.............that's what I do.

A rant and a Rave........ I can't believe the cost of parts to fix our wonderful modern cars. They cost 20,000 plus and when it comes time to fix out modern miracles, an O2 sensor costs near $200; AND there are at least 2 of them. I bought my house in "72" for $29,000. My next one will require a second mortgage. The electronics are so delecate that when one fails, the dominoes fall. Your gas milage falls and it costs an arm and a leg to fix it. I too would like to see what they could do with our flatheads. We don't need to get from zero to 60 in 4 seconds any more (well, maybe trying to get on the highway). I hate to see the cost of driving in 30 years. When I finish restoring my "ride", It is going to be my main car. It will be less expensive to fix than my wifes '03' Mustang GT. Thanks guys..........I needed that.

Could you share the info on how you did your centering on this T5? I want to get as much info as I can before I dive into mine. I have the truck bell housing too. Thanks

I'm stuck. I have a 1938 DeSoto 228 L6 that was altered at birth into a 218 ci in my Dodge RC truck. The truck came without a head, pistons, connecting rods, or appropriate bearings. My question is..... after i've had my crank index ground, how do I determine the new bering size (and where to get them) and rod length with the piston. Where a 218 crank was subed for a 228 crank, this could get confusing. My manuals have some stats, but where do I go from here "coach"? Please point me and push me. The machinest who indexed my crank gave me an .030for the rods, and .020 for the main bearings. Thanks

When I bought my truck, the engine was missing the rods, pistons, and the head. I'm rebuilding the engine, vut need a place to start. Where do I find the size/measurement of the rod so I can get some new ones? It is a 1938 DeSoto 228 (25" block T58-9651) made into a 218ci for the 1938 Dodge RC. Thanks.

What ever happened to www.restorationspecialties.com ? I used them for the wetherstriping on my 36 Dodge D2 a few years ago. It is a good quality product.

I'll planning ahead and will be installing a heater, electric radiator fan, 12 volt lights (with a high mount brake light in the rear), and a radio. Maybe electric windows (drivers and passengers). What size amp alternator do I buy? Is there a formula for a non-mathematical mind like mine? Thanks guys.

I don't know much about butt gas (aka gas butt), but if someone "Clocks" someone else, would striking with the other hand be considered a "CounterClock" ? Thanks guys. It's nice to see that others have a sense of humor.

Hi All, Clockwise and Counter Clockwise has been discussed a lot here. I've searched the threads, but need to know from what perspective is it clockwise. If I stand in the front of the car, which way is the fan/engine rotating? Clockwise or Counter Clockwise? My engine hasn't been run for three years and I forgot. Thanks.