Happy 46R

Hi Murray, thanks for the pm. I will check this afternoon as I have to check on the car anyway. Hit -32 Celcius last night so want to make sure the small heater in the garage is running. It wont get the place warm but it will take a bit of the edge off. Dave

Hello Pep48, Not sure this will help however on my spare Chrysler Corporation of Canada spare distributor the vacuum advance lever simply fits over the pin. I cannot find any sort of fastener or clip that retains the arm. Couple of photos of the spare I have.

All of mine are standard removeable nipples. Occasionally they plug up or won't allow the grease through so I have a supply available. Just unscrew and replace. Hopefully yours hasn't been damaged. Congratulations by the way on a new project. Dave

This is best I can do, sorry. On the original website address there is a "see more" entry almost to the end of the first page you see. Opening that button expands the grid from the Plymouth section and onwards. I think this is the section you were asking about. Again sorry if it doesn't work for what you need.

The only one that I have is: ALLPAR.com/old/model-guide/index.html Not sure if it is what you need or not. Dave

very nice indeed. Keep us posted/ Dave

Hello Ozjohn53 and welcome. Looking forward to pics and stories as the project progresses. I can't help you out technically with a proper profile description but I can tell you that if you search different suppliers mentioned in many of the postings you will find that AB has a weatherstripping package and they may be able to assist you with dimentional information or other information. I will PM you with the site contact as I am not sure what I am allowed to post on the forum. Enjoy the project. Dave

Hello OUTFXD, I have a 46 Dodge Special Deluxe but a Canadian Model. I just went out and got a picture in hopes it helps. I am not sure your release set up would be the same as mine but it is all I can offer. I can only think of two options as accessing the catch from below appears impossible. The photo orientation is the square hole is to the front of the grille. On the right side of the photo is the connection of the cable to the mechanism. If you have a small gap between the hood and the grille you may be able to insert a thin piece of steel, (Metal Ruler) and push the knob back towards the firewall at the appropriate angle. You would have to be right of the secondary latch and angled slightly from left to right to get the proper directional push. The connection between the catch and the wire is slightly recessed with a raised lip around it so you may have to bend the front edge of the flat bar down a bit. This idea only works if there is a bit of room between hood and grille. The second option would be to create an L shaped piece of perhaps 1/4 or 3/8" round stock or ready rod with enough length to reach through the grille and up the hole of the mechanism from below. I am not sure you could get enough purchase on the round stock to push that mechanism back but you never know. Both of these require steady hands and patience, neither of which I have. Best I can come up with and good luck. Dave

Last year the weather cooperated and I was able to take a ride on Christmas Eve with no snow and mild temperatures. (-3 Celcius) This year I am not so sure as we have already had a skiff of snow that has thankfully gone and some colder temperatures. I try to run the car right up to snow so will have to keep a close eye on the weather. Today was around 6 degrees with only a light breeze so I headed out to inspect some of the SPOOKTACULAR creations around town. Caught this one as it was being set up so hopefully the halloween weather on Thursday does not include the rain scheduled for 4:30 local time. Happy Halloween everyone.

Not sure it will help your situation but there are a couple of videos that may help. One is for old dodge trucks the other for a 41 rebuild. May not have all the answers but might have some. Try https://www.google.com/search?q=1941+dodge+door+window+replacement+p15-D24 for the 41 restoration.

On sealing the hood I used the dum dum putty and applied it extra thick where the penetrations are for the tabs on the chrome. I was really careful to put even pressure on the whole length of the chrome so it didn't kink and when you take the chrome off the tabs have a tendancy to slide inside the chrome track so if you can mark where they go, marker dot or something simple, so when you put it back on you know where the holes are. You also need to unbolt the hood ornament to get clearance for the chrome strip to lift up so I used the dum dum putty under it and making a circle of it around those mounting holes so I didn't get the putty on the bolt threads. About a 20 minute project. Have fun with it. Dave

No expert on this but could the problem be related to the drive shaft? I recall a thread I was reading some time ago about how important it is to mark the drive shaft's orientation to the transmission and differential so it remains true when removing and reinstalling. Given the new torque converter and transmission rebuild could they magnify the vibration from an out of balanced or twisted drive shaft? Just an idea. Dave

I was at an area body shop on Tuesday and they were kind enough to give me a package of the dum-dum putty in strips. Each strip was about 12" long and a 1/4 of an inch wide. Chrome strip was easily removed by straightening the tabs on the bottom side after unbolting the hood ornament to give the front end of the strip clearance. I used the putty to seal the entire seam back to front and then created a second layer of protection by encircling the tabs on the center chrome piece with the putty. Long story short the strip is sealed and there is no water on the engine after a wash. Thank you Plymouthy Adams for your insight.

Thanks Frank, My worry is the water getting in as I have a good set of wires and caps and don't experience any hesitation or missfires. It certainly doesn't help the appearance of the car with all the calcification building up in the spark plug wells and it makes cleaning it off tricky when I want to remove spark plugs. Do you have a suggestion for the seam sealer as I don't want to use something that destroys the paint or discolors the stainless. Dave

When I wash my cluib coupe I get water sitting in the spark plug wells on the head. The reason is the center crease in the hood, which is covered by the stainless, leaks. Is there a tried and tested means of sealing that off to prevent the water leak. I have checked the shop manual and the parts manual that I have and neither shows any type of seal between the two hood panels. I have searched the forum and although there are many entries about hoods there doesn't appear to be anything about this issue. My two hood panels appear to be spot welded together along a central seam. The chrome strip has 4 tabs that slip between the two pieces and are then bent over to hold the strip in place. The spark plugs are directly under the seam and fill with water. Other than removing the strip and siliconing the seam I am at a loss as to how to solve the problem. My car is not a show car but I don't want to do something that will damage the car or make future restoration more difficult. Hope someone has an answer. Dave