Cpt.Fred

the right one looks just perfect! straight appearence, i really like this one!

wow, bill, that's a rough one! my drums are turning freely, no problem with that. the puller i got over here is like the one blueskies used, shown on his website. only in the sissy-version, i guess... ruined the puller's front in the first try, it sank right into the center drilling of the axle with no effect on the whole thing. i left the nut screwed on a few turns, but still i was worried of ruining the threads or have the whole flying around my ears if i hit it harder. no use, i guess i have to get a little more cold blooded here. thought there was a trick, maybe.

i just tried to get my rear drums off with a drum puller, but those b++++++ds won't do me the favour. what can i do, use heat? i tried a heat gun, still nothing. i tried some tender strinking with a wooden club and a hammer, nothing. i used the emergency brake to keep the drum from turning, that's ok since it works on the drive shaft, doesn't it? it didn't move one tiny bit... boohoo. can i use some REAL heat, i mean flames, or do i wreck the bearings by that?

sounds nice... now i only have to find the money for building something like that. nice tip with the compass, thanks! i will try for sure, it's a real crowd pleaser here because most people look silly when i tell them my car has navi.

ok, sounds interesting! mine is a 40 anyway, so there must be something inside that didn't come out so far:) i didn't have a serious ride yet, only on the garage yard where i work on the car, but it wasn't developing any power so far. gotta check the compression first, then rebuild the carb. when i have a license and next winter is coming in, i want to add the speed, but i guess i keep the original egine as is and buy another one and get it redone (look at "largest flathead to fit"-thread...). there's a quarter-mile race for those old ladies here once a year, let's see where we are in, say, 2012;) it's fun having one of these, even just looking at it... what's that "edgy"-head you were talking about, blueskies?

you're right, thats a compass. completely dry, unfortunately... i'll have a look at the marks next time. found a closeup: no signals, no mirrors... but a compass and the antenna can't be unfolded in the garage completely because it's about 4 meters long. that ride's a boat i tell you:D

do you mean the finned edmunds...? i tried real hard to get it, but they raised the bar too high for my budget. what do those heads do but look nice, anyway? higher compression, less heat, what else? does anyone know and has numbers?

this looks great! any photos of finished cars or original old ones...?

the inside looks completely wrecked on the photos, but is actually quite good. there are water stains everywhere, but the seat upholstery was covered all the years and is in a great condition. carpet is good as well. i'll try to rescue as much as possible, i want to keep the car like it is. except the hp... and i will lower it a little. it looks like we say here "a stork in the salad".

sure, here are some pics:

yes, that's what i heard. offy and fenton didn't produce any deuce intakes and headers for those 25ers, so i've been told. sad though, because there is a 230 chrysler engine with everything still on it and turning for a small buck just around the corner here... guess i'll stay with the ply blocks first, i don't want to chnange too much on the car.

that's what i thought, mine was from crown and i mostly bought it because i wanted a good throttle valve shaft. i know it from my opel when they wear out, you have a lot of fun tuning the carb... phone number would be great, thanks norm!

a friend of mine is coming over to the US from Berlin and we plan to get a large box for shipping, so along with other parts i REALLY need, i was thinking of buying a larger engine for a much faster future with the P-10... now i already know that the chrysler/desoto blocks are about 25" and the dodge/plymouth blocks are only 23" or so, but what would be the largest l-head fitting into my car without changing anything on the body? if i am not mistaken, i have a 201cui with 84hp in there right now. i don't want to change the original motor because its a matching number car with 78000miles, but then again i'd like to have a deuce intake and split headers and a finned aluminium head and... you know what i mean:) maybe you have photos, too?

shame on me, i have to admit that i as well paid more than a hundred dollars plus shipping to germany for a D6A1... didn't know better then and wasn't on this forum here. besides, parts for my 69 opel were 300% higher, a rebuild carb goes for about 350-500EUR, so i thought "wow, a 70year old NOS carb for 150EUR including shipping and tax, got to buy that!" now, i know better... besides, there's a deuce intake from offenhauser with linkage an a single carb on it on the bay, looks nice, but costs 425$... before i do it again, that's too much, isn't it? shop name is O State Diesel, anyone knows them? some parts looks really nice...

yippieh, another 40 around! looking forward to more photos of the restauration! have fun and good luck!

Great pictures! Looks like a nice place... all sunny and full of old stuff. have fun, some of these people here have answers to nearly everything!

how do you mean this? don't be afraid... :-) just returned from my roundtrip, received my window cranks and will try to remove the instruments this week. you'll read how i end up.

point one: i don't know, now that you say it... point two: my wiring has faded completely, i know what to expect. if i touch the cloth, it turns into dust...

oh lordy, lordy, i do know a lot of swear words, that's for sure. i was afraid you'd tell me something like this, is there ANY company in the world that built it in a different way? i'll post some funny plymo-sutra pics when i'm taking them out and get stuck upside down with my legs out of the windows. i have a manual, several of them in fact, but none of them gets specific when it comes to this point. "point one: remove the gauges." oh, thanks, spare me the details, please:mad: thanks for all your tips! you guys are really helpful! i'll be away for a week, my mum got 60 and celebrates, and after that i am going to tear that dash apart.

yes, i guess when everything is working and the disk is where it belongs, you can see the speed indication color through the small plastic lens in disk where the needle is. i would like to know how the mechanism works. there are these tiny plastic "ears" on the disk, you can see one on the upper right on 2 hours, maybe that's for holding the dik in place? i wonder how they manged to break this. also would like to know how to get the gauges out of the dash:confused:

really nice! great cars. even the shop looks old fashioned, really neat!

i bought all my wiring at rhode island wiring, they produce the original cotton braided cables. really nice, got them today and they all look great. look up their page, they're in canada.

i have a problem with my speedo, but since i am going to replace every cable in the car anyway (picked up my harnesses at customs today - looking great!) i guess i'll just take the instruments anyway, so then i can get everything fixed. it looks like this: the mileage counter still works, so am i right when i think i just have to kind of re-hook the disc and put a new glas in...? p-10 veterans to the front row, please...

you can never be sure, maybe a hundred people had excellent deals and you are the first to get real trouble, that's for sure. but why take the risk and order at a place with a questionable reputation, when you have to pay huge shipping prices PLUS customs and everything... kanter, by the way, has a reputation of being to expensive (at least over here) and when i talked to some guy from them on the phone, i could as well have spoken to the commander of a local recruiting station. *NO SIR; I DON'T SELL THESE!!!* so much for small talk... i haven't placed my order yet, but i guess i'll just give it a try. heck, i want to drive the thing...