harmony

My Fuel gauge as always been a bit lazy and not too accurate, so I have been relying on my odometer for my fuel stops. Fortunately I have my dash from my parts car so I pulled the fuel gauge out of it to have a good look at it. I had already removed the radio previously. (I'll mention the radio later). I pulled the sender unit out of the gas tank and hooked everything up on the bench and did a test as the manual explains. So my sender unit seems ok and so does my fuel gauge out of my parts car. So it seems I need to have a look at my fuel gauge and possibly recalibrate it. Has anyone pulled a fuel gauge out of a 48 Windsor before? Please don't tell me to type my question into google. ? I'm looking for good old fashioned stimulating conversation about this. I've pulled the ignition switch out and I took off a 3/8" nut from a protected stud that had a wire coming from the ignition switch and another wire heading off somewhere. Once all that was out of the way, it looks like one of the 2 fastening screws ( slot) that hold the fuel gauge in place is behind the radio. So it looks like I have to remove the radio to get the fuel gauge out. The only other option I see is to remove the 4 nuts holding the whole instrument panel in place and try to get t the fuel gauge from the front ??? The first image shows the back side of the fuel gauge. Behind the stud/nut that's holding the black with yellow tracer in place is some of that protective black cardboard. Across the top of the image you'll see a slot screw. That's one of the two slot screws that hold the fuel gauge in place. The next image shows that protective cardboard folded back and you can just barely see the second slot screw. But you can't get a screwdriver on it unless the radio is removed. Conversation is welcome, as opposed to being told to type something into google for my answer. haha!

I watched a couple videos of guys using a razor blade and I had exactly the same thoughts. If it's not cured I can see it sort of rolling the paint, and if it was too hard, yes I can see it chipping the paint as well. I'm wondering what the time frame might be for the most opportune time to use a razor blade. I think I might just stick to whittling it down with various grits of sandpaper.

Wow! I have no come back for that. What a sad sad world we live in these days.

Interesting,,,, I went to their web site as well as YouTube, but I couldn't really find any detailed information on this.

OK, Good to know. So starting ay 320 or so would be too course. I just thought I'd start on the end of the run where the paint is fairly thick with something courser. But I have lots of patience and lots of time so I have no problem starting at 600.

Hopefully you won't run into this problem Marc. But if you do perhaps there is a knowledgeable guy following this thread that will have some advise. I recently had my roof painted ( about a month ago) with single stage Urethane. ( no clear coat) and there are 3 significant runs or drips in the paint. I'm wondering if I can simply wet sand them out? Starting at perhaps 320 and working my way up. I have sanding grits going up gradually to 12000 grit.

The hole for the allan wrench is sort of half hidden by the door weatherstripping. The other two pictures are from my parts car and I decided to cut them out of the door just in case I needed them one day for something.

If that sounded confusing, I can take some pictures for you today and post them in about 9 hours

I can only speak for my 48 Chrysler Windsor and a 47 Chrysler Royal that I rebuilt. There is a small machine screw that screws into the end of the square lock shaft. It is behind the inside door panel. Very close to the edge of it. There is also a set screw that is recessed that you get at through a hole in the side of the door. Hole that is about a half inch in dia. It's best to use a T handle Allan to get at it. If you don't have one the long end of a regular Allan wrench will do, but you might have difficulty getting it out, so you might clamp on a pair of vise grips to the Allan wrench. If you have time it's best to spray that set screw with your choice of penetrating oil.

The door lock installed on the red door is on my '48 Chrysler Windsor. The two door locks on the bench are from my parts car which was a '46 Chrysler Royal

hummmm, all good points, as well as the arm holding the air cleaner would have to be longer as well.

Well she fired right up instantly this morning as soon as I hit the button the old girl began purrring instantly as if yesterdays event was just a figment of my imagination. So as Keith suggest if this should ever happen again, I won't go into panic mode and take the recovery one step at a time, starting with, crawling into the back seat and having a nap for a half hour or more to start with. The moment I saw that empty fuel filter my first assumption was that I rock had hit the fuel line and punctured it. Oh btw, while it's on my mind and it's sort of topic related. Some guys add a Phenolic spacer about 3/4" or so between the base of the carb and the manifold. To help with the cooling effect. My carb mounting studs are barely long enough to get two gaskets between the carb and manifold as it is. So my question is where do I get longer studs? Are they course threading going into the manifold? Is it likely that I will have a lot of grief getting the existing studs out to replace them with longer studs ? Will ATF/brake fluid free them up? Or would I need heat? Where do I get that material? I'm fine creating my own, with the grove on the bottom to match the gasket.

We have 94 octane non-ethanol up here and that's all I use.

If I understand correct about the 15 min. boiling theory,,, Is that "about" the length of time it takes from the time the engine is shut down ( stop burning fuel) and the gas then reaches boiling point in the carb? After that time frame it then starts to cool down and it stops boiling? In a case like that, when the gas is boiling, is it possible for the fuel to be sucked out of the fuel filter and into the carb? ( engine not running) But this still wouldn't explain, that while I'm holding down the start button the gas isn't being drawn up into the empty fuel filter.

That's about the length of time it takes from shut down to start up at the gas pumps and at the beer store. Which I do consistently week after week month after month for 3 years ????

Thanks guys but at times I'm a little thick headed. I'm not understanding why if the carb percolated this one time. Why only this time? Why not every time I stop to get gas or stop to buy a poverty pack of beer after a nice long drive?

I have mine sprung open all the time.

If it starts up normal tomorrow morning, I'll perhaps try to recreate the event. Drive 40 minutes or so. Come back to my shop, shut it off for about the same time frame and then pop the hood and restart it from under the hood and watch the fuel filter. I have one of those hand held remote push button stater gizmos with the alligator clips. Nope that's a lie. Were supposed to get a few days of rain, so after the rain I'll try that. So Sniper, why would the carb be hot after 40 min with outside temp being around 65 F ? I'm not educated enough to make a valid comment on winter blend vs summer blend. However I drive the car each month of the year and almost at least 50 weeks of the year when it's not raining or snowing, and I've been doing it for 3 years and this is the first time this has happened.

Yes the empty fuel filter is a head scratcher. What about my theory of by removing the gas cap, it allowed the tank to vent, and that allowed the fuel pump to draw fuel again? So while I was trying to start the car, cranking maybe a total of 2 minutes, 15 seconds each time (guesstimate), than that might have drained the gas out of the filter. If the carb was flooded at this point then that might explain gas on the carb body. Beats me how it got as far as the inner fender. Mind you, the cap looked fine. I can look closer tomorrow. But it's the same cap as always and it worked fine all the way home. A few stop lights and it idled fine and accelerated fine.

No, I didn't think to see if the carb or fuel line was hot. But I did hit the throttle linkage while under the hood at one point and I removed the air cleaner and I touched the choke plate. Nothing felt abnormally hot. Mind you I did have some gas in a jar in my shop. ( not old gas) So at one point I poured a bit down the carb to see if that would get it to start. While pouring the gas in the carb, I noticed some steam/vapors rising, so maybe that indicated that the carb was indeed hot.

Maybe the old girl isn't happy with the paint job I gave her, and she's letting me know. ?

I filled up the tank on Sunday. The previous gas in it was only a week old as well. I've driven in much much hotter weather and even at parade speeds. Shut her down and restarted with no issues at all. Not to mention each time I stop to refuel each time. The engine is off for maybe 5 minutes for that refill and she always starts the instant I bit the button, no pedal.

interesting

I'm wondering if the gas cap failed to vent? Obviously the fuel tank wasn't empty, but maybe taking the cap off, allowed the tank to vent and then when I hit the ignition after adding gas, that's when the fuel filter refilled. Maybe?????

Pretty sure Ed. The only time I ever give it one pump is when it's dead cold first thing in the morning. But what threw me off was the empty fuel filter.