harmony

Good point. I had given some thought to rebuilding the frame but both lower corners are worse than swiss cheese and pretty far gone. Belzona 1311 is pretty incredible stuff but just 2 litres of it is $830 Can. ouch!!. So I'd have to rebuild the lower corners, before pulling out the old glass for replacement. If all failed, a guy could make the windshielf fixed.

I couldn't figure out what you meant by "tape" but now after reading the discription in the link Veemoney sent me, I get it now.

ohhhhh ok so now I know what I'd be looking for. Very interesting,,,, all except the price. Gulp!! Thanks for that link.

I'm also curious about the crank assembly or mechanism for controlling the movement of the window. I can't find any pictures or images or illustrations that show it. I also don't see any bracketry on the frame at the bottom in the centre that the mechanism would attach to in any of the frames I've seen on line. There is nothing on the truck (or the worn out frame) I'm thinking of buying and the owner can't remember if he has it somewhere burried in a box. He hasn't touched the truck in 20 years.

This is how the listing is titled, " 1939-1947 Dodge Truck Wc Power Wagon Windshield Frame" so I'm thinking it would fit. I just want to be sure. I'm not paying monster prices for one though. This one is cheap compared to DCM's price.

I'm thinking about buying a 1940 Fargo but it needs a swing out windshield frame. I found one relatively reasonably priced on ebay but it says it's for a same vintage Powerwagon. So my question is, are the frames the same? The pictures shown seem to indicate that the frames are the same.

I went to see the truck and yes there is a lot of rot at the bottom of the door post at the lower hinge, both sides. But I think it can be solved with a spool or 2 of mig wire and a bunch of steel. lol! But the concerning thing is the swing out windshield frame. I think it's beyond repair. Massive rot on both bottom corners on the inside. I did find something "economical" ( key word) on ebay for a replacement frame. The pictures look the same but it says it's for a '39-47' powerwagon. Does anyone know for sure if it is the same frame?

Thanks Merle, that's awesome. Thanks for the link too. I'm wondering if there is reference somewhere regarding measurements, besides the wheel base, so I can determine the height and overall length? I have seen drawings for various trucks in the past, just not this one.

I'm considering purchasing a 1940 Fargo. As the picture indicates, I think the model is FJ1 15. However I haven't been able to find that anywhere in my searching. I believe the FJ1 indicates it's a half ton. But the 15 all by itself confuses me. From my research the 15 indicates it's a long wheelbase (120") maybe. Looks like the serial number is 9554414 maybe. I'm trying to determine how tall it is and how long it is overall. My shop size limits me. I'm guessing the engine is the 201" and I'm curious what the transmission would be. 3 or 4 speed? Synchromesh? It's a bit of a distance away and there is no sense traveling to see it, if it won't fit in my shop. The owner is a little reluctant to grab his tape measure.

I agree, very unique. I have no idea that what I read was fact or fiction but they did say that it included a lighter. I believe that the bulk of it was to hold at least a pick of cigarettes lying on their side in an enclosed box that loaded from the top. At the front of it was a small bar that you would push down on it. Then a half cylindrical section would pop down and then one of the cigarettes would roll out on to that half cylindrical portion. All ready to fill the drivers lungs with cancer. 🤪

I'm curious if anyone has any information about the post war Chrysler cigarette holder/dispenser/lighter. I understand that they came stock on the Traveler. I read that the Traveler didn't have an options, because Chrysler included every Chrysler option available from the factory. Is that fact or fiction? I did see a picture of one when viewing pictures of a '48 traveler online. But the picture was from a distance and it appears to be mounted on the steering column. Was it basically just a holder/dispenser, or did it also have a lighting feature on it? I'd love to see some close up pictures of it.

My 48 Windsor Chrysler uses a Carter B&B EV-1. It has the kickdown plunger/switch on the back ( firewall side) of the carb. The wire to that switch comes from the "TH" terminal on the transmission relay. There is also a wire on the front of the carb above the dashpot on the front of the carb for the anti-stall, which goes to the "SOL". terminal on the transmission relay. I'm thinking we would probably have the same Fluid Drive but don't quote me on that.

All those mistakes seem to find guys like us on a regular basis. I think we need our own specialized kind of shrink. However, the flip side of that is, I'll focus on what's in the background of a picture of cars for sale more often now I'm sure. Wow, what a score!!!

I agree. I had exactly the same issue with this particular model.

Back in 2019 the fuel pump on my '48 Windsor started to leak. I took it apart and sure enough the rubber diaphragm had disintegrated due to ethanol gas. I sent it to Then & Now to be rebuilt. Once they got my fuel pump they called me on the phone to say that I had an early style, but they could still replace the diaphragm and it would probably be ok. I said go for it. When I got the fuel pump back it only lasted maybe a hundred miles and it was leaking again. I sent it back to them and this time they replaced the bottom half with an updated version. It's been a few years and I forget the details of what they did, but it was now updated and improved. They promptly sent it back to me. They are almost as far east on the continent and I am as far west as you can go on the far side of the continent in Canada. They apologized for not upgrading the first time around and said that the parts for the upgrade ( basically the bottom assembly if I remember correctly) was worth around $100 plus CAD. Not to mention the labour. They didn't charge me anything at all (parts, labour, shipping)second time around. Great customer service and judging by the time frame, once they got my fuel pump back the second time, to the time it arrived back to me in the mail, I would say it was a priority on their work bench. A few weeks later I got a follow up email from them asking if my fuel pump was working properly. Very pleased with their professionalism.

Wow! Good to know about the plastic bottles. But now I'm curious about the "modern" plastic brake fluid reservoirs on the master cylinder? So at what % is the brake fluid unacceptable?

It's good to hear that you haven't had any issues with this pen. I was about to order one but then there were a few reviews that said they didn't trust them because they tried the tool in a brand new bottle of dot4 brake fluid and it read 4% water.

If you prefer the paper versions of the M5 transmission over the videos, here are a couple links about it. There are around 20 pages give or take in each booklet. https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/012A/cover.htm https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/012B/cover.htm

From the way you worded your post it sounds like you would like to go for a ride in another fluid drive car to experience how it's shifting and how the transmission sounds and responds. You probably already know this but the "master tech" videos cover the M5 really well. Also, perhaps you already know this, but the carb idle has to be as low as possible without stalling the engine. Around 450 rpm's. If it's higher than that, it just won't shift gears. But if you have a specific question, than there are a few of us that drive cars with that same M5 and are fairly familiar with what needs to be corrected in order for them to be reliable.

Yep, I know what you're talking about and I agree. You're doing a great job. Keep us informed with lots of picks to drool over as the project goes on.

Thanks for that link. I'm somewhat familiar with casting. I used to have a pressure pot and a vacuum tank for the purpose of woodturning projects. So I'm guessing that some of your dash pieces were fairly long. Did you make your own, long pressure pot or did you omit that part of the procedure?

Cool and very Interesting. It would be appreciated if you would explain the process in detail. I went to Grain it Technologies web site and although they do show some of the process in a video. They either have an issue with links to all the available videos on their web site, or they expect you to pay for their "info and selection" videos. Because nothing on their video page is linkable. The nice thing is that there are many patterns to choose from, even a number of leather patterns. I'm pretty sure that you wouldn't be boring any of us if you let us in on the process with tons of pictures throughout the process and or videos. I'd be interested in seeing exactly what tools you bought from them. Or did you buy the complete kit? Or perhaps the Pro kit? That roller is huge, so I'm guessing that you bought smaller rollers as well ( 7 sizes) in order to get into tight concave surfaces. I'm also curious what you needed from Smooth-On molds? Was that a separate process or was the mold making process incorporated into the graining process that you did?

I'm constantly looking for those bed frames on a front lawn with that beautiful sign that says FREE. I'm guessing that I have about half a dozen in my stock bin at any given time. I've built countless tools with those bedframe rails.

Thanks, Well at least you didn't say "stay clear of those skins". So at this point I just have to decide if I want to live with the scratched, slightly dinted in places, and tired chrome, hub caps that I have now, or dig deep into my wallett and bite the bullet. I'm guessing that the skin is already formed to fit over the edge of the hub cap, and once the adhesive is set, you'd gently start working your way around the edge to draw the lip in tight. Do you remember what you found to be the best tool for the job? I'm thinking a soft rubber mallet.

Personally, I use flux core. Granted it's a little more difficult once you get down to something thinner than body steel. But I just switch from .035 to .025 and make the adjustments on the mig welder. As for body steel and thinner gauge steel, I use it like a spot welder and keep going back and forth filling in the gaps. I don't want the added expense (and hassle of the exchange process) of a gas bottle, because the welder may sit for a month or so not even being used. Plus I find it difficult to see around that shield anyways. I never use a shield with flux core, plus I can turn on a fan with the flux core to blow away the fumes without the air effecting the weld. I believe it just takes practice to lay down a bead or multiple spots without the "crater effect" when using flux core. There is a guy in Canada (down east) that has a YouTube channel called Fitzee's Fabrications. He's one hell of a body man and fabricator. He's got some pretty cool techniques. If I remember correctly, he only uses mig.