harmony

I agree, very unique. I have no idea that what I read was fact or fiction but they did say that it included a lighter. I believe that the bulk of it was to hold at least a pick of cigarettes lying on their side in an enclosed box that loaded from the top. At the front of it was a small bar that you would push down on it. Then a half cylindrical section would pop down and then one of the cigarettes would roll out on to that half cylindrical portion. All ready to fill the drivers lungs with cancer. 🤪

I'm curious if anyone has any information about the post war Chrysler cigarette holder/dispenser/lighter. I understand that they came stock on the Traveler. I read that the Traveler didn't have an options, because Chrysler included every Chrysler option available from the factory. Is that fact or fiction? I did see a picture of one when viewing pictures of a '48 traveler online. But the picture was from a distance and it appears to be mounted on the steering column. Was it basically just a holder/dispenser, or did it also have a lighting feature on it? I'd love to see some close up pictures of it.

My 48 Windsor Chrysler uses a Carter B&B EV-1. It has the kickdown plunger/switch on the back ( firewall side) of the carb. The wire to that switch comes from the "TH" terminal on the transmission relay. There is also a wire on the front of the carb above the dashpot on the front of the carb for the anti-stall, which goes to the "SOL". terminal on the transmission relay. I'm thinking we would probably have the same Fluid Drive but don't quote me on that.

All those mistakes seem to find guys like us on a regular basis. I think we need our own specialized kind of shrink. However, the flip side of that is, I'll focus on what's in the background of a picture of cars for sale more often now I'm sure. Wow, what a score!!!

I agree. I had exactly the same issue with this particular model.

Back in 2019 the fuel pump on my '48 Windsor started to leak. I took it apart and sure enough the rubber diaphragm had disintegrated due to ethanol gas. I sent it to Then & Now to be rebuilt. Once they got my fuel pump they called me on the phone to say that I had an early style, but they could still replace the diaphragm and it would probably be ok. I said go for it. When I got the fuel pump back it only lasted maybe a hundred miles and it was leaking again. I sent it back to them and this time they replaced the bottom half with an updated version. It's been a few years and I forget the details of what they did, but it was now updated and improved. They promptly sent it back to me. They are almost as far east on the continent and I am as far west as you can go on the far side of the continent in Canada. They apologized for not upgrading the first time around and said that the parts for the upgrade ( basically the bottom assembly if I remember correctly) was worth around $100 plus CAD. Not to mention the labour. They didn't charge me anything at all (parts, labour, shipping)second time around. Great customer service and judging by the time frame, once they got my fuel pump back the second time, to the time it arrived back to me in the mail, I would say it was a priority on their work bench. A few weeks later I got a follow up email from them asking if my fuel pump was working properly. Very pleased with their professionalism.

Wow! Good to know about the plastic bottles. But now I'm curious about the "modern" plastic brake fluid reservoirs on the master cylinder? So at what % is the brake fluid unacceptable?

It's good to hear that you haven't had any issues with this pen. I was about to order one but then there were a few reviews that said they didn't trust them because they tried the tool in a brand new bottle of dot4 brake fluid and it read 4% water.

If you prefer the paper versions of the M5 transmission over the videos, here are a couple links about it. There are around 20 pages give or take in each booklet. https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/012A/cover.htm https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/012B/cover.htm

From the way you worded your post it sounds like you would like to go for a ride in another fluid drive car to experience how it's shifting and how the transmission sounds and responds. You probably already know this but the "master tech" videos cover the M5 really well. Also, perhaps you already know this, but the carb idle has to be as low as possible without stalling the engine. Around 450 rpm's. If it's higher than that, it just won't shift gears. But if you have a specific question, than there are a few of us that drive cars with that same M5 and are fairly familiar with what needs to be corrected in order for them to be reliable.

Yep, I know what you're talking about and I agree. You're doing a great job. Keep us informed with lots of picks to drool over as the project goes on.

Thanks for that link. I'm somewhat familiar with casting. I used to have a pressure pot and a vacuum tank for the purpose of woodturning projects. So I'm guessing that some of your dash pieces were fairly long. Did you make your own, long pressure pot or did you omit that part of the procedure?

Cool and very Interesting. It would be appreciated if you would explain the process in detail. I went to Grain it Technologies web site and although they do show some of the process in a video. They either have an issue with links to all the available videos on their web site, or they expect you to pay for their "info and selection" videos. Because nothing on their video page is linkable. The nice thing is that there are many patterns to choose from, even a number of leather patterns. I'm pretty sure that you wouldn't be boring any of us if you let us in on the process with tons of pictures throughout the process and or videos. I'd be interested in seeing exactly what tools you bought from them. Or did you buy the complete kit? Or perhaps the Pro kit? That roller is huge, so I'm guessing that you bought smaller rollers as well ( 7 sizes) in order to get into tight concave surfaces. I'm also curious what you needed from Smooth-On molds? Was that a separate process or was the mold making process incorporated into the graining process that you did?

I'm constantly looking for those bed frames on a front lawn with that beautiful sign that says FREE. I'm guessing that I have about half a dozen in my stock bin at any given time. I've built countless tools with those bedframe rails.

Thanks, Well at least you didn't say "stay clear of those skins". So at this point I just have to decide if I want to live with the scratched, slightly dinted in places, and tired chrome, hub caps that I have now, or dig deep into my wallett and bite the bullet. I'm guessing that the skin is already formed to fit over the edge of the hub cap, and once the adhesive is set, you'd gently start working your way around the edge to draw the lip in tight. Do you remember what you found to be the best tool for the job? I'm thinking a soft rubber mallet.