leadheavy52

Here is a ‘49 Dodge 4-speed truck trans in a ‘52 Plymouth. I bought the car like this and have since replaced the bellhousing and will be swapping to a ‘52 OD trans soon. You can see how much cutting has to be done to the floor to get everything to clear. In addition, the truck starter has to be used and it is about 15% larger than the car version and makes a nightmare of rerouting the oil lines to the filter (if equipped). Lastly, the trans isn’t synchronized, so double clutching, or grinding are about your only options. I am with this group in identifying and easier to install transmission.

They’re not mounted yet and still looking for a good deal on 6.00 x 18 tires. But they’re going to look sweet mounted up! After looking at pictures of some of the other wheels here, perhaps I ought to pick up a different set for a different look.

Here’s mine coming along slowly. Brakes are rebuilt, shift linkage has been installed, bellhousing has been swapped over, and trans to go in next. Hoping to drive it for the first time next spring.

I followed their race from start to finish and they made a heck of a showing. I can say that with the exception of the more-developed areas, none of their trek looked easy. I am glad to see that their choice of Chrysler 6's famous reliability showed out. After watching their adventure, it has my boys and I curious about someday building our own P to P racer and attempting the long and oft difficult feat of simply finishing this endurance race. -Austin

Sam, you’re the man! I will give this a go this weekend.

Thanks, dpollo. Found this photo. I can easily recreate this, but how does this set the gap between the drum wall and shoe? I’ll respond to his thread for more info.

Got her all done! Took some turning of the bolt whale whacking a not spun onto a few threads on the back. Got it out and all the new hardware back on. A little steel wool on the shaft of the bolt and some used motor oil made it a breeze to get back in the hole. Now the dreaded task of adjustment after replacing all the other three wheels and a good brake bleed. Thanks for the help!

Thank you! I assumed it might be stuck from time and sitting. I didn’t want to go wailing on it with a hammer, but that might be the trick. I’ll see if I can turn the adjusting bolt from the front while smacking it from the back, with the castellated but reversed to not damage any threads.

I am about to lose my mind trying to get this lower wheel cylinder off the front of my ‘52 Suburban. I have loosened every nut I can think of to get this damn thing to even budge. What am I missing? I have looked the FSM over and it does not indicate much of anything. Thank you in advance. - Austin

Following.

Looking good! I love the two-tone dash colors. I agree with Plymouthy, two-tone the wheel to match. It would look super slick.

Thank you! I will give this a go tomorrow. Bummer to have to remove the MC, but it’s likely due for a rebuild anyways.

Does anyone have any insight into how I would go about removing the clutch pedal on my 1952 Suburban? I have unbolted the plate that holds the pedal assembly to the outer side of the frame and can slide it out a bit, but what stops is it the linkage hangar on the inner side of the frame. I have attached a picture where it is circled in red. I checked to see if there is a clip there that prevents it from coming off, but could not locate one in the years of road grime. I could probably get a better look at it if I removed the MC, but do not want to go that route until it become dire. I do have the FSM and could not find my answer there. Thanks, Austin

This little thing ways a ton! Gotta figure out how to remove the tailpiece so I can use it with the OD trans. I know I will need to shorten my driveshaft (actually, the driveshaft that came on the vehicle, most likely from the '49 Dodge truck), but I don't know by how much yet. Fingers crossed this all goes back together as smoothly as it's come apart. -Austin

And the old 4-speed truck transmission is out! DJ, I first removed the rear motor mount rubber, but it was not enough to clear the floor with the brake band on the transmission still. Easy, remove the brake band. No go! After removing all of the tensioning hardware, I was still unable to get it to budge, then realizing that even if I did, I would not have the clearance needed to get it free from the trans anyways. So, Plan B. I removed 7" of tunnel behind the transmission to get it to clear. Cut right up to the edge of the floor brace so welding the piece back in will be easy. I have to do a bit of floor replacement anyways, so it won't be much of a hassle on top of that. Long and short of it; the transmission is out.