coW52Dodge

Thanks for that suggestion - I'll have a look at that tomorrow.

Okay, I got my replacement in yesterday from Roberts. It looks almost identical to my old one, with the exception that it seems to have an extra ball joint where it connects to the linkage. I suspect that's for some other truck or car. It still wants to flop sideways a bit. I realize one isn't going to do any precision driving with this truck but can that be improved? I see now I should have ordered a draft seal for the hole as well - would having one improve that situation?

That looks like a very nice finish too and easy to do: Just leave stuff outside north of the rust belt. Seriously, nice job. I've never tried that chrome spray on paint but that sure looks great.

Yeah, no kidding.

Mine is just like Merle's, with a half-sphere looking thing at the top that has holes all over it.

Thanks, Merle. My can top says the exact same thing so these are the wrong filters. The previous owner used a metal cartridge filter so I looked for something similar. When I noticed that a lot of people here used 1080 filters, I figured that was the one needed. Can anyone here use these 1080 filters? If so, make a $10 donation to this site and I'll send the one I took out of the box to you. (edit: just found out I can return the one I hadn't taken out of the box)

I did my first oil change on my 52 1/2 ton and replaced the filter with a NAPA FIL1080, which appears to be a generic replacement filter according to many posts here. The filter that was in there when I got the truck looks similar except that it has a stand off on each end: It seems to keep the filter in a specific location in the canister and clearly stops it from flopping around: The new filter does not have these standoffs so, consequently, it sits much lower in the canister. It obviously could potentially flop up when I go through over a bump: Is this the right filter for my truck? Does this matter that it flops around? I could just cut some spacers out of brass pipe, I guess, to keep it in a similar location, if it makes a difference. Also, the previous owner really had the wingnut on top of the canister cranked down way too much, it seems. Come to find out that the gasket does not quite fit right and he was compensating for it. The new gasket isn't much better. What does everyone else do to alleviate this problem? I could just carefully trim a millimeter from the edge to make it fit properly. I'd hate to crank it down as much as he had it.

LOL!!! ^^ While doing a HomeDepot run over the weekend, I had a hinge in my hands but decided against it to avoid giving the purist a conniption. They suffered enough after seeing that one..

Thanks. The studs appear to be fine. The ball joint itself is just really sloppy. Maybe I'll do what you did and then later have mine reworked.

The gas pedal on my 52 B3B is attached to the bottom by means of these two studs that have balls on the end that seem to just have been pressed into a chunk of rubber. They have worn out, causing all sorts of sloppiness. My pedal is also bent - someone must have literally had a lead foot. Do I replace the pedal or do they sell that rubber ball joint mating end somewhere? If the pedal indeed just needs to be replaced, which one is recommended? I see Roberts and Andy Bernbaum both sell one.

That's wicked cool. If I hadn't just gotten my truck, I would definitely buy that. Is someone here going to get it? It'd be nice to keep it in the family..

I'll have to fill the hole with something. It looks kinda hacked up so may need to mig some of it closed. Would an 814 radio look horribly out of place? They seem to be more readily available..

What sort of radio went into a 1952 half ton? My left dash has a larger hole in it and there's an antenna mast stem on the cowl, as if it may have had a radio at one point in time.

My truck had its ignition switch mounted above the original location since that one required a 3/4" hole, not the larger hole of the original switch. The switch was bad so got a replacement cylinder and switch from NAPA and figured I'd put it back in the original location. I was surprised to find the replacement switch didn't come with a bezel. They don't sell those - in fact, nobody seems to. I got a bezel off a complete switch eBay - it coming from a mid 60's Mopar, I am not sure if it is 'period correct' but it certainly looks very good.

That's great information. Could good stuff like that possibly be contained in a sticky? That way we won't have to search for it when you need it.

Buy his and make a $250 profit!

I see several there but it looks flatter than what he^ used. Could you provide us with a link or part number? It does look great.

That'll buff out.

Sorry, I had no idea that door was that rare. That area looks tricky to duplicate so you may have to use the metal that's there, as thin and rough as it may be. After neutralizing the rot, welding to it will be a challenge, if it is even possible. I've never used those new body glues but understand that you can make really strong bonds using it. Maybe use that stuff instead of welding your replacement panel?

I'd look for a new door. That looks pretty rough and will be a lot of work.

Welcome! Nice truck too!

I'm upset I missed that one. Danbury is maybe 35 minutes from here. Thanks for posting the pictures.

I think all newer TVs (certainly the last couple of years) that are sold are supposed to have a digital tuner built into them. Regardless, you can't look a given horse in the mouth.

I also have corner windows so I'll do what you did, Merle. Thanks!