coW52Dodge

Could it be that spring on the throw out bearing to the case? I'm not positive on this, but don't think it is for returning it to a known position it seems to be to keep it from rattling around.

That's how I feel about it. For me, it wouldn't be fun to drive a car or truck someone else restored or got working.

A friend of mine pointed me to this document regarding rebuilding of New Process transmissions. This particular trans may be a little different than the ones used in our vehidles but it is still very good info so posted it here, in case someone else can use it.

A virus?? Glad I'm not infected.. Just kidding. You can change the color of your text by typing this inside your message: [co​​lor=red]This is red[/co​​​lor] It shows up like this: This is red

+1 I'd keep it original. We definitely need to see pictures. Sounds like a great truck.

Duh, just noticed I described my engine as a V6. In my defense, I'm an idiot sometimes. Clearly, I meant to type 'an older 6 cylinder-type tranny that we usually see in Pilothouse trucks'.

Aha - mystery solved. Would you happen to know whether the input shaft and related gear, bearing, housing, etc could swap with an older V6 tranny?

That does look much longer. I do wonder why they have so many permutations of a simple transmission, though.

I'm just assuming that it is a 55 because it has this on the case. Maybe it means something totally different, though: The new (fluid drive?) transmission's input shaft dimensions: My original old transmission's input shaft dimensions: I've already contacted someone that has a transmission that may just fit in so may just replace the transmission. If you can use the 'fluid drive's input shaft with these dimensions, you're welcome to them parts, Merle.

I don't know. Is there an easy way to tell? The numbers on the top are different but figured they were date codes. The input shaft's housing on the new one is a bit longer, along with the overall length of the input shaft. The bosses that hold the parking brake assembly are offset in height on the original. On the new one, they are on the same plane. To make that assembly fit, I had to elongate both mounting holes on the original bracket. It is a shame this one doesn't fit because it has a nice positive 'click-in-gear' feel to the gear lever.

Well, I'm bummed out. My replacement transmission is not quite the same. Since it diverged a bit from the original subject, I started a new thread, wondering whether parts from it can be swapped. (posted to the wrong forum - oops. Could someone move it here for me?)

Oops - just noticed this isn't the pilothouse forum. Sorry about that. Could a moderator move it for me?

My transmission had bad syncros so decided to finally pull it and switch it out. Assuming the number at at top relates to a build date, my old transmission was made in 51 and the new one made in 55. They look identical at first glance. After struggling to get the new one in, I pulled it out, made sure everything is still lined up and tried, tried and tried again. That thing has been in and out three times now and the last 3/4 inch just won't go in. On a positive note, I'm getting good at pulling transmissions on this truck. Well, after pulling it out one more time today, I decided to measure the input shaft. The new one is almost an inch longer than the old one, from about 6 3/4 to 7 3/4! The housing is also significantly longer. Assuming the inside is similar (does anyone know?) , how difficult would it be to swap the input shaft, replace its bearing, etc? Or should I just fix the old one? Or maybe look for another candidate?

Thanks - I'll try both those things.

Okay, the transmission is almost in except for the last less than an inch. It almost seems like it is getting stuck on something. Could that be the throw out bearing? Maybe it slipped down so it catches the edge of the the outer part of the shaft? I'll pull it back again tomorrow after work and see what's what.

I bet 49 is spot on, suggesting it is a cable or terminal. When you start the truck, do your gauges go back to zero without it starting? If so, something is either drawing a lot of current or a battery connection or cable is bad. That would eliminate the starter switch being the cause. If it draws a lot of current, the cables from the battery and the battery itself would likely get warm to the touch. If the battery and the cable isn't getting warm, it likely is a bad connection. If either the cables or battery get warm quickly, you have some sort of short. Be careful as that could be dangerous. Perhaps report back, if that's what you're seeing. Note that the following assumes your truck is still positive ground*. if your truck has been changed and has a negative ground*, use the opposite polarity on the battery: Using one side of a booster cable, leaving the other side dangle, try bridging the ground* terminal to something that should have a good ground under normal conditions, like on a clean bare metal spot on the engine. If it now starts, you likely have a bad ground connection somewhere. Should it not start, I'd check all my connections from the battery to the starter. * (ie the '+' terminal, on positive ground system but the '-' on a negative ground system)

I like my cars original but also enjoy seeing/hearing about what other people have done to it.

Thanks for the words of encouragement and advice. I got another throw out bearing - like you mentioned: cheap insurance. So just align it with the shaft, between the forks and it should all be okay, then? I did get some extra bolts at NAPA today that I'll cut the heads off to use as guides. From the looks of it, that could be helpful in aligning it go back in. Regarding the bolt pattern, the original transmission is dated 51 and the replacement is dated 55. They both have the identical pattern. The only difference I can see is that the bosses that hold the parking brake assembly is slightly different. I have to elongate the existing holes in the bracket a bit to make it fit.

Okay, I got the transmission out this morning - someone must have gone happy with an impact gun when they did the clutch last because they were way more 'on' than 'tight is tight'. When I thought the transmission had cleared, I shifted it to get it from under and that moved the throwout bearing a bit - that will just pop back in without adjustments, right? I ask because I don't really want to do a clutch job as that actually performs quite well. Also, when I put the new one in, can I just take the six bolts out of the top cover to remove the shifter? In other words, does that just come off and go back on without too much trouble? It would make re-installation a whole lot easier with that long stick off, since I'm not that high off the ground.

Mine are a bit gunked up so can't tell whether there's a clip anywhere. They look loose to me. There certainly is some movement, like they are just being held in by the yoke and the u-bolt. While laying under the truck, I didn't want to take the risk and taped it up to make sure.

Thanks - I'll be careful cleaning it and marking everything. I'd like to paint the shaft with some rust bullet before it goes back on.

Okay, that worked like a chimp, prying where the red arrow is located. The driveshaft was out in minutes. I see now where it collapses: on the drive shaft near the transmission. Those cups didn't volunteer to fall off but were certainly thinking about it so I taped them up again, after I removed them from the yoke. Thanks again for all the solid advice, fellers. Now on to actually remove the transmission. The hardware holding it to the bellhousing is ON there so I don't dare doing it with a 12 point wrench and my sockets are too fat - tomorrow is another day, after I visit Sears to get a 6 point 13/16th.

How much current do these radios draw, max? If it is less than 1.5 Amps and if you're handy with a soldering iron, you could build yourself a simple regulated supply with a few components, all found at Radio Shack. It would be pretty cheap (sub $15 with box) and the voltage across the radio would always be 6V, as opposed to a resistor that will likely cause the voltage to vary depending on how loud you have it set. I could draw something up, should that fit your application.

Thanks, all, for the suggestions. I really appreciate the help. I'll be under the truck again later, when I get home, to see what can be done. That slip joint, where is that located? Is it where the green arrow is pointing to? That looks like it may move.. Or is it part of the shaft? The U-bolts are hitting the part of the axle pointed to in yellow. I can probably force them out, should that be necessary but don't like to do that because they have to go back in as well.. Instead, if I pried in the opening pointed to by the red arrow, between the u-joint and its yoke, would that collapse the slip joint enough so I can slip the u-bolts and also joint out? Also, what holds those cups on, after I slip them out of that joint? I see that they are captive with a large inner c-clip on the side without the u-bolts and on the transmission side, but what holds them in after it is allowed to slip out of that joint escapes me. I'm just afraid it will turn into a game of pickup sticks with the needle bearings when the cup decides to fall off.

Thanks - I'll have to muscle it some more. I figured the back end had to come off first but it just looks like it doesn't want to move much. The tape is part of my paranoia about those needle bearings falling all over the place when the cup wants to fall off. It also made it easier to mark the sides with a sharpie. Not sure if this needs to be part back exactly the way it was taken off but that's what I intend to do. I may have gone a little hog wild with the tape, though. :oops: