55 Fargo

Shawn, post your question on the P15 D24 Forum on this website. Don Coatney, is one gent who has done this exact trans mod, he has it bolted up to a 251 Desoto engine. Read your posts on the AACA forum......Fred

Bob, Roberts has L shaped connectors for the plugs, no boots OEM style, buy the evrdry kit from them for a real cool look and protection for your plugs. The iwres are cheap, $21.50 for the set, the evrdry kit is around 25 or 30 dollars....Fred,ps you would get them in about4 days, I got mine into Canada in 8 days

DIDO, I would like to know, as when my car is running and charging the needle tends to bounce a little, thought it was normal Fred. Any idea which fender well is the one with grounding bolts, the drivers side I would imagine, are the bolts brass or any different metal......Fred

Hi, ordered a set of clip-on side mirrors from Roberts, as well an original type spark plug wire set. Very pleased with the quailty and the wire-set fits and looks great.The clip on mirrors the $12.50 models are okay, but 1 mirror had allen set-screws and the other phillip set screws, the allen set screws could hardly turn, they were so tight, and looked to be cross threaded or something, the phillips set were great. I phoned Roberts, they said they had never had this happen, but he would send me another mirror no charge, bonus on that.Have any of you guys had similar experiences with these clip-on mirrors. After the USA/Canadian dollar exchange, postage, Duty and handling on the Canadian end, they were more like $17.50 each, gotta pay the free medicare up here someway I suppose, LOL...............Fred

is it going to hold and be stable and durable, if so sounds like a good idea

That would get the crud and brake fluid moving out of those lines, and heck you can have a beer and watch the machine do it's work........LOL Fred

Cool pic Rodney, musta been fun touring this museum

Dave the paint looks awesome kkep up the good work, imagine what you can do with a sponge roller

Sounds like these stands are good and sturdy, always leary of the discount tool store engine stands.Fred

Right on EdThey look great after there cleaned up and painted...Fred

Just for curiosity sakes why would you not use them on more modern cars. I have silicone in my stock brakes in my 47 Chrysler, it's viscosity is different, harder to bleed, but his stuff is great for old cars that don't get used a lot of the year.........glad I used DOT 5 Fred

Ed, did you get the 2 clips off the top of the heater, that attaches to the freshair intake, the fire wall mount bolts are of right. On the heater housing there are screws that go al the way around it, try taking those off also. It should drop right out, might was a rusty dirty mess and came right out.......Fred

This county ,known in my part of Canada as a Rural Municipality,RM, the RM of St. Andrews is large, wealthy, but it runs from past my place almost into the nearest Major city,Winnipeg Manitoba. The RM caters to the wealthy home owners closer to the city, they get paved roads, sewer and water etc. At my place the more rural end of the County, we get the left overs. It cost currently here with there contractors, $250000 per mile to get sealcoat paving done. According to the Reeve (RM Mayor), he told me he only has a million dollars per year to pave in this county. But he did say he would check the traffic flow on our road and see what it is, he at least knows this road is well travelled, but he is a politician.......Fred

Thanx Don, my plan is to still drill 3 drain holes of 3/8 of an inch, this would allow crud, dust or water to exit out of the area. My initial thoughts were that I should not make any holes in the area, that would allow dust or exhaust fumes into the car. But don't think that would be an issue in this location, my new panels, one day when they are made could be plastic backed, the panels would also seal out any air or dust to come in as well. Let's face it, this car will not be driven through snow salt, slop, and slush, and why would I want to go driving in torrential rains if I can help it, the car stays inside unless going for a ride or I am working on it outdoors.........Fred

Too rich for my blood right now, I plan on going the John Burke style mats till I can afford the repro mats someday. I will retain the original holes just in case...........Fred

Wow, we have 94 on this part of the forum, lots of guests this fine Sunday morning welcome

Thanx Eric, no red heads, , the job turned out okay, very hard to get pro results, when a) the car is all together, and b)your working in tight awkward positions. My welding is okay on the bench, with lots of room etc, but upside down in a tight spot, with less then ideal metal surface conditions, it is marginal. Having clean rust free metal makes all the difference, as well having a tight clamped piece makes the weld better, much of the welding I had to hold the piece down tight with a long screwdriver and weld with the other hand, and sometimes use my left hand to weld, good thing these welds aren't structural..LOL Fred

I am no expert, but if you can try and grind/sand out the old filler, especially if it's bond is an issue. If not roughen up, with say 80 grit, then lay on some fresh filler. Smooth it out and feather as per usual.Or if you like you can spray on some primer, if you are in no hurry, go with Rustoleum primer, reduced with auto enamel reducer, about 15 to 30 %, but this needs to cure about 3 weeks, before you can work over it. Or you can use lacquer based primer/surfacer, or urethane based primer ie PPG K36 or epoxy primer DP 40, these primers will need to be roughed up first before the filler is laid on it for best adhesion.I have left some old filler on my car, with no problems

Hi all here is a pic of my rims from the 05 Dodge Caravan, we live on a gravel road, which is limestone based. Although we only live 2.5 miles from pavement,it does not take long for the gravel dust to build up in the rims, I have to clean them 2 to 3 times per year, having this much crud attaching to the insiode of the rim throws the wheel balance out, so you can tell at 60 mph that it's time for another cleaning. I spoke to the county, they are looking into a better oiling program, they also said our road is slated for possible paving in the future as it is a very well travelled road, so far this year no dust control has been put down, then they only do in front of the properties, so you have sections up to a mile with pure dust, almost impossible to keep a vehicle clean. Any of you guys have a road like this.

My MC was down a bit, "shame on me", so I was careful and never made the MC oveflow, whan pushing back the pistons. Because the vehicle was an 2005, and we have owned it for 3 years, with 40000 miles,with 70 % of those being highway as we live in the country. I will be keeping an eye on them from here on in...........Fred

Used to know a couple of guys had a Bodyshop in Yucaipa, J&R Autobody, that was years ago, but I remember they did nice work, they were friends of a relative of mine down in that area. Using bondo to a 1/4 inch is repspectable, or even up to 3/8, but a n inch and a half, whew, now thats just being to much in a hurry to care

According to my Chrysler shop manual, it is a hair pin shaped thermostat in the housing of the auto-choke, the electrical function closes the choke when the engine is cranking, when the engine is cold. The thermostat gets heat from the manifold, whcih heats it up and keeps the choke open when the engine is at operating temp. Hope this helps.........Fred ps, if you need to know how to adjust your choke,I can post that also

Hey 50, not bad,actually turned out good, can't tell from the pics what was used where just think of how this could have turned out with good body work, wetsanding and polishing with a buffer and Meguires.All in all how could anyone ask for more, on a $50 paint job, this will probably stand up for quite a while, now get some decent tire and rims and go for a ride..............Fred

Ain't no feeling, like the one of accomplishment, with a job well done. Keep up the good work.........Fred

Okay, I was able to spend a couple of hours today, with my welder and the beast, I was able to weld, in both sides of the car under the 1/4 window, at the floor level behind the interior panel. I did weld under the car for the most part, I was able to tack weld, then stitch weld the panel from the inside, not an easy trick with the bottom frame part obstructed my hands and welder gun. But it is now done, even removed the screws and welded the holes shut. The next step is to slap on some seam sealer, from both inside and underneath the car floor. I was thinking of drilling 3-3/8 drain holes, so no water will stay trapped in this cavitie, thi will be followed by trusty Tremclad red oxide primer and topcoated with Sure seal rubberized undercoating. That should take care of this matter. The welding in this area was tough, the old sheet metal was corroded enough to make the welding a bit more of a challenge, only burnt through on a few spots. Welding inverted is not too bad once you get comfortable and get some practice, by no means am I a real welder, but can get by with what I have. Here's one for just4don, gonna have my 15 year old step-son and his buddy get under the car, with my supervision to wire wheel and clean up the floor and frame, so I can paint under there, no this is what step-sons are for, mind you I am going to pay them $50.00 for doing it, which is a real deal IMHO................LOL Fred