55 Fargo

Glad your okay Ed, we had a major overpass in Montreal collapse last year killing 3 people. The bridge was past overdue for repairs and was declared safe by an inspector, and right after that it collapsed, killing the people driving under it.Our deepest sympathy are with the victims families, lets hope the casualties are low...........Fred

Hi Frank, I am aware the bellhousing is bigger, in fact I have one here at home, also a M5 Trans. The cross member was moved on my car, but can be moved back if wanted. I have no plans to go back to fluid drive at the moment, the 3spd and dry clutch, are simpler and hopefully will suit my needs, plus it has a lot more, off the line take off............Fred

Pat, I remember when you were looking for a flathead, they seemed scarce, then you found the one you have now. I now know where htere are at least 10 of these engines in a 10 mile radius of where I live, I even have 3 of them, 2 x251, one runs, one is eized, and my 218 big block in my 47 Chrysler, I spoke with a large engine building company, one guy has been with them 30 years, he told me until about 12 to 15 years ago, they always kept 15 to 20 Chrsler flatheads in stock rebuilt, mostly 251 or 265 industrial types, these are truly a great engine, sure glad I decided to keep my car with a flattie instead of a SBC.....................Fred

One discovery is that my big block 218, has an 8 bolt crank, so a fluid drive could go on this also, plus my current flywheel, and clutch could go on my spare engine, which is a 251, the engine I want to rebuild in the future. The clutch is a 9 and 1/4, not sure if they were as common as the 10 inch clutch or not..........Fred

Hi all, filled my cooling system up at 0730 this morning, upon my return from work. It is now, 2:51 PM and there is no eveidence of any antifreeze leaking, "touch wood". I have a clean piece of news paper directly under the open bell housing, no leaking evident, I think she is good to go.Next the flywheel is going to be machined, the pressure palte and disc need overhaulin or replacing. The clutch is a 9 and 1/4, am I measuring this correctly. Did notice the ring gear has some teeth wear, can it be reversed on the flywheel, to have the good side facing the starter, or should I leave it alone................Fred

Norm, there was a dimple, but not big, the plug went in snug, because I checked it before I actually installed it, I needed a magnet to get it out. Do you think the silicone will help to keep it bonded, when I drilled a hole inthe old brass plug, it practically fell out on it's own, the side plugs did not do this when I replaced them, the brass pplug was not sitting sqaurely in the hole either, it was lopsided.The anitfreeze was leaking around the outer edges, the plug was not rusted at all, the opening cleaned up nicely.........Fred

Tim, I sure hope so, my only concern is if I set the plug well enough. I put a super big magnet on it, it did not pull it off so it must be set, used Permatex Black silicone, around the plug and the opening, hope this also helps, I know silicone is darn yough when cure, heck it holds glass together for big aquairiums. Keep my fingers crossed, But that flywheel was tough to get out, the ring gear should be pulled of it and put on the other way there is some teeth wear on it...........Fred

Hi all, pulled the clutch, flywheel, bellhousing, the freeze plug was leaking, it was brass, and not rusted out. Cleaned up the area, even though I flushed the block, replaced freeze plugs, pulled water tube, there was a half-pint of crud in the hole,in the back of the block. I rodded it ouit cleaned it suctioned out what was there, flushing on my garage floor was not an option. I reinstalled a 1/58 freeze plug, with silicone adhesive, gave it a good whack in the center, the plug went in a tight fit, so I sure hope it's set in enough. The clutch and disc, need rebuilding, the flywheeel needs to be machined. Not a pleasant job to do, sure hope my work holds out, the flywheel, was a real beach to get out................Fred

Allan, the Canadian engines all used the same block for 218,230, 251,265. I know you know this, on our engines there is more room to bore out, especially with the 218 and 230, they had a smaller hole than the 251 and 265............Fred

Shel , are these 4 more to take off, or is there 4 in total, how many bolts in total. Man is this clutch pan dirty/greasy......Thanx Fred

Hi all, how many clutch pan bolts hold on the pan. I have removed 6, the pan is still being held somehow,or buy more bolts, anybody got any ideas:confused: ........Fred ps, man is it dirty greasy in the bell housing

Hi does anyone know, if the rear freeze plug on a flat head mopar 6 is 1 5/8 like the side plugs. Plan on changing this on Saturday, but want to make sure ahead of time I have the right freeze plug size.What is a good brand of salant to use on the plug, before it is set into the block........Thanx Fred

Those numbers are indicative of an engine with some time on her. Having a variation of I believe 15 % is okay, so your in that now. My concern would be, the inner or #3 and 4, are quite low as compared to the rest, then 2 and 5 at 95, then 1 and 6 are 100. 100 on all cyls would be good, mine were after not being run for several years, 100 to 110, with cyl #5 at 98, but the rest were from 100 to 110. Did you do the test on a cold engine, or a warm engine, do you also do a wet test, by squirting some oil inot each cyl and observing the difference if any. You probably alreay know this, if the test numbers come up on a wet test, it's likely rings, if not,it is poorly sealing valves. With these numbers, you may have a leaking head gasket also.........Fred

Here is a pic of the area in question, would like to pull the b/house, first if I can.Also a pic of the e-brake, with brand new lining:D .....Fred

Here are some cribbing stands, that I made, there are also pictures of my 2 ton, stands, I also have a set of 3 ton stands, I like the cribbing stands, very solid and a lot of surface area, should not not tip over.

Hi all, can I unbolt the bell housing, support rear of engine from underneath, then remove bell housing with clutch and flywheel in place. I would prefer to leave them in, until I got the bell housing off. Or do I need to take the clutch out first, then bell housing, then flywheel. That would'nt be bad either. I have the floor panel out, so if the housing was off, the flywheel would be easy to remove, then I can replace the leaking freezeplug.......Fred ps I probably asked this before, just want to get it straight before the job starts

Shel, how long and big is this spring, I am going to try and get one as close to this size as possible........Thanx Fred

So where is the best spot on the front to place a small floor jack, should I put a small piece of 2x4 under the front rad support before I jack up the car, or should I do one side at a time on the frame. Or can anyone post a pic for a dummy like me, I know Shel may do this..................Fred

Kinda like cutting and splittin wood myself,but it was almost 100 here today and humid, not a day to do much.........Fred

I have 2 types of stands, 2-3ton, ratchet style, 2-2 ton ratchet and pin, and 2x4 cribbing stacked 14 inches high, the type they use to hold up house trailers, just made with 2x4 criss crossed, all 12 inches long, these are very strong, but take up a lot of room under the car........Fred

Thanx Norm, should I put a double set of stands on each side, just a little extra support

Hi all, what is the best way to jack up the front of a 47 Chrsyler, I have a 3 ton floor jack, a few sets of jack stands, some 2x4 criibing blocks, a set of steel ramps that are 10 inches high, but the car can' clear the ramps. Should I jack up one side at a time, or jack in from the fron center somehow. I need to jack up and secure the car so I can remove the clutch, flywheel, then to hold up the back of the engine, while I take off the bell housing to repair the freeze plug leak.............Fred

It is the tranny return spring, as Shel as illustrated, the car is a 1947 Chrysler C38 Club Coupe, but the trans is from a 1951 Dodge, and so is the E brake, it is slightly different than the 1947, but not much. The e-brake band is religned, had this done last week , cost $37.00

Thanx Shel big time, I now know exactly where to put the return spring, just need to get one now. I really appreciate you takin the time to do this.....Fred

Hi all, does anybody haave a diagram of the e-brake assembly for the 3spd standard trans. If so could you please post it. I have assembled my ebrake today, but wanted to know if and where a retrurn spring fits into the equasion. Not getting much done today, it's 97 in the shade and probably 110 in the direct sun, maybe hotter. this is definately the upper ends of our summer weather. It is a cool 78 in the garage.........Fred