55 Fargo

I have made a gasket for my trans to bell housing also, but I have not added the hole, for the vent hole, should I also cut this hole, as my original gasket had this hole cut out...........Fred ps , learning to ask beforehand

Would anyone know how long the clutch fork rod for a dry clutch set up would be. This way I can cut and thread this long rod, is it a straight rod or is there a slight bend in it. The reason I ask this is there is a bend in my clutch fork rod, but it could have been bent out of shape at one time......................Thanx Fred

Hi all, today I removed the clutch for rod, the pivot, and the clutch pedal turnbuckle rod from my 47 Chrysler parts car. On my current 47 Chrys, the clutch rods are different, and I suspect the previous owner, used the hardware from a 1951 Dodge, which are different. Although they work, it is sloppy and I could never get much tension on the over center spring for it to work properly. Plus the one side of the pivot, the one the clutch throw out rod attaches to, was missing the bearing inside the end of the pivot, another sloppy connection. Here is my dilemma, the throw out fork rod is too long, as it was meant for a fluid drive clutch, not the dry clutch I have now, which is the same as the Plymouth. Could I cut this rod down to size, put more threads on it and use it as is, or should I get the right shaft. Which leads to my next question, does anyone have an extra throw out fork rod laying around, possbly I could buy it from you, if you do. At least if I get the right one, I don't have to cut the longer rod, in case at some future time, I might return to fluid drive, which I doubt............Fred

I may end up going with a GM single wire alt, a local place makes them into 6 volt pos grnd for around a $100.00.

Hold off just A bit Shel, going to a local antique yard this coming week, owner says he has these gens............Fred

Changed fanbelts, problem gone, but I should have the correct pulley someday.........Fred

Hi all, is it a holiday in the USA, lots viewing welcome Newcomers........Rock:D

Hi, does anyone know where I may be able to get a small( narrow) belt pulley for a 6 volt Mopar genny. the on I have in my car now is the large type, but the damper and fan pulleys are narrower type. the belt keeps falling off now and is turning itself inside out.............Thanx Fred

Here is the deal, just got backl from the auto electric shop, he tested the starter, 1 brush was out of place, the rest is in great shape. He said the wear on the drive gear was minimal, it can be cleaned up with a dremel. Got home, installed, started engine sounds okay, a tad louder than before, but the clutch pan is still out, and so is the floor panel. Here is my next problem, my fan belt keeps coming off now, it streched a bit and is turning itself inside out. I have small pulleys on the damper, the water pump pulley, but the genny pulley is for the large belt. Would the 3rd pulley being larger cause havoc with the fan belt. Next question, would anyone have a small belt pulley for a stock genny, would like to fix this up. The shop owner did not charge me for testing and re-installing the brush, thought that was a great of him, so I bought him a X-large Tim Hortons coffee(the canucks know this place).............Fred

Hi, just pulled the starter, it calfed out. When the starter did engage it was quite normal sound, but it has been spinning and dragging for a while, it's going into a shop today. The ring gear, was removed by a very experienced shop/individual, he told me today, that he will not flip a chamfered/beveled ring gear, so I think I can rule this out for now. The trans is out, the bellhousing pan is still off. The reason, I had to resurface flywheel, replace clutch and ebrake. I also had a leaking rear freeze plug I repaired/replaced, hence the mitigating factor. I do know others have had the ring gears flipped, this engine in my car is from a 1951 Canadian Dodge 218 Long Block, with an 8 bolt crank, and a 9 and 1/4 inch clutch.............Fred

No the coolant was put back into the system, it appears normal........Fred

No the machined flywheel is to the clutch, just checked starter, it's not engaging or disengaging very well. Once the starter engages it's all good and sounds normal. So if the starter and drive is not engaging as it should, would it not first make a little noise. Plan to pull starter, either egt another or have this one rebuilt, I did clean aup and paint the outside, but it is not working very well. Wonder is the solenoid swith would have anything to do with the problem also.........Fred

Just spoke with the shop that did the work, he said he would not or will not flip a ring gear that has a bevel on the one side. Don't know what to think, I have the ring gear exposed so will have a look this morning........Fred

Chet, everything is new, clutch, flywheel ground etc, the flipping of the ring gear has been done before without adverse results, as Greg G. has done just this. My problem is a sticky bendix spring possibly, the starter drive was a little roughed up also, will pull starter again and have it corrected.But thanx for your concern, BTW your progress looks great

Not to discount what any of yall are saying, but I read in the archive threads that Greg G, had his ring gear flipped, or did I read this wrong...........Fred

Hi all, this one kept me awake last night, amy other thoughts on this one...........Fred

You mean to say the ring gear has to be flipped over, that is a heck of a lot of work, or can the starter drive be changed. Can this be corrected with the starter, does anyone know. The reason I had the ring gear flipped was because it was worn in spots.........Fred

Don, it's amazing what a little elbow grease and paint can accomplish, looks great. Was thinking of painting my engine in car, any advice on how to do it, I apinted it once before but want to change the color and the previous paint didn't hold up very well

Hi all, reinstalled the flywheel, clutch and starter tonight. I used a discount tool store clutchaligning tool, and carefully aligned the disc as close to center as I could, hope it's right. i then reinstalled the starter motor, got the engine running and she was purring like a kitten again, ran it about 15 to 20 minutes as I had all the coolant out to repair the freeze plug, it was about 160 after warming up. When I had the flywheel machined , I had the ring gear flipped over, but my starter seems to be a little noisy, like it's not quite meshing al the way, is this indicative of a poor starter drive or a poor starter, the connections and wires are clean and tight. All in all happy:) about this job sofar, will install the trans and driveshaft next..........Fred

I concur on the "engine pull", just pulled the trans, clutch,bell housing, and flywheel incar, it went okay, but it is a dirtier job like this. If you are going to this lenght, don't be hasty, get an engine lift, beg borrow,rent, and get help and pull her out. This way you can clean the engine, paint it, replace gaskets and seals, have a look at the flywheel, and flush out block if needed and it's probably needed. But heck it's your car, do what you think is best and go for it. I was told by some to pull the engine on my car in this recent job, I didn't probably may have been better, but it's pretty well done now, so water over the dam.............Rock

The formula is around 3 degrees per pound of pressurization, you could possibly go with a 4lb cap, this would allow you to raise the boiling point of water at sealevel to 224 degrees, with 50/50 antifreeze and water this could be 230 to 235, plenty of max temp. I am not sure I would go higher than a 7 lb cap, unless the whole rad has been redesigned for pressure.......Fred

Yah, get it re-cored,to a 3 row or get a honeycomb rad in mint condition. A newly re-cored rad will operate very nicely.

Hey Reg, just down the road from me is the Saints Model Airplane Club and Field, there is always a plane there, they have weekend shows and one big hoo yah every June. Last year there was a model Jet, man could that thing motor, leave the exhaust trail just like the big ones and sounds the same also, appaently it can go pretty quik, even saw a model bi-plane with a jet engine on it, real cool stuff, but it's not my thing.

Certain Varities of Maple, Manitoba Maple (Box Elder), Poplars (Aspen), Cottonwoods (these get monstrous around here), Willow Trees, I find these are prone to damage in storms and high winds

Greg, we are very fortunate in Manitoba, as it has many Hydro Electric Dams, and more are planned, we really could power much of the USA, eventually that is part of a big longterm plan. Right now, our electricity, is 5.5 cents per Kwh. I costs us about $2000 per year total, for our heat electricity. This means water pressure too, our furnace, A/C, hot water, lights, heat for garage, stove,2 fridges, 2 large upright freezers and an electric dryer. I am not bragging or rubbing it in to anybody, but we are lucky in this part of Canada for this utility. Our summer pwer consumption record for this province was on July 25 th, consuption was 3404 Mega watts, our record winter consumption was on February 5th at 4265 Meg watts. Don't forget Manitoba has a population of only 1100000, and 800000 live in the Winnipeg Area, so thats the scoop for us...........Fred ps service and equipment is very good here