55 Fargo

Norm, it is never smelling like gas on it's own, nor is the base wet with gas, but after cranking a bunch without firing, it of course floods a bit. So far I think this was spark related, will see what happens, going outside in about 20 minutes, it is cool tonight, will see how it starts.........Fred

Norm, not sure if it solved or not, but will see how things go, if it returns a super hard start, will investigate further. Having it flood when cold, is my mind indicative to poor spark/igntion.Still can't believe I had the coil wired backwards, it must make a difference, otherwise it would just be 2 contacts rather than a + and - terminal..........Fred

Hi Norm, I went out with the assistance of my 18 month old daughter, did exactly what you have mentioned, made sure each wire was snapped into place, on the cap and on the coil. The engine started easily, but it was little warm from starting it earlier. It also seemed to run smoother, re-started it a few times,all first crack starts. My little girl and I went for a spin down the road a mile and came back, it ran like a top, car is a lilttle noisy, because it has no door panels,headliner or carpet right now, the king pins maybe a little grouchy too, but I do have new shocks. I will let the engine get cold and will try and start it later and see what the result is, hopefully it will be okay..................Fred

Upon inspection of the coil, the wire from the dizzy is going to the - side of the coil, when it should be going to the + side of the coil. Not sure how I screwed that one up, been like that for a good year or more. Would this cause any damage to the coil or points or plugs..........Fred

Hi all, lately I have been experiencing hardstarting, sometimes when the engine is cold, sometimes warm and sometimes when hot. I had a look at the auto-choke function, it is working like a charm, each crank the choke closes tight, when the engine is cold. The carb is getting lots of gas, unless its been sitting a week, then it needs to crank a bit to get fuel into it. This summer I installed a new plug wire set from Roberts, now I do notice they don't fit all that well, they pop out of the cap real easy. Today I pushed them all in tight, including the coil wire, the engine started right up easily, tries this a few times, then it wouldn't start, again found loose plug wires in the cap, pushed them in and away she started again. Could this be the wires, not happy about how they fit into the cap. The coil points,rotor and cap are all new. Anyone experience anything like this, what else may be the cause of the hard starting.......Thanx Fred

Norm, its and electric auto-choke, on cranking when cold it fully closes, the carb sometimes floods when cold, maybe it's an ignition problem...Thanx Fred

Hi Randy, it could very well be the adjustments on the carb, or sticky linkage, I will investigate further. I do find sometime on cold start, the carb sometimes floods a bit so there is gas there and the bowl isn't drying out.Psoosibly its a spark problem, the engine has all new plugs,wires,coil points cap,rotor, rebuilt carb etc, timing seems okay. We have had 1 or 2 frosts overnight here don't expect snow for a month. BTW, the handle i chose, lack of imagination is from the next county from mine. I work in a Minimum Security Federal Prison, in Rockwood R.M. (aka county)..........Fred

Places like Grand Forks and Fargo ND have a lot of Manitoba plates in there shopping mall parking lots. Canadians are starting to take advantage of a high dollar value. Now if I had any money, now would be the time to order my new gas tank, from tanksinc., in Minnesota.

I have noticed when I take the car for a spin, the idle seems to be higher when I return. I have tried to figure this one out before. If I start the car, it will go into fast idle, beacuse of the auto-choke, but after she warms up, the idle will kick down. I could then go for a ride, and upon my return, the idle will be higher, not sure if this vaccuum related or what the problem is. I have also noticed my engine seems to be getting harder to start cold, even if the car was run a few hours before, it seems hard to start, it was hard to start after a run tonight, the engine temp was about 180.Wonder if this is an intake manifold leak, it is something when the car is run and is warm. When I mean hard to start, it needs to be cranked over a few times, usually by the 3rd crack it will start, when warm or recently run it should start the first crack, shouldn't it, ps would a heatriser stuck in the cold mode cause the fuel system to do funny things once the manifolds are hot........Fred

Hi Jeff, I have one of those too. But if I remeber correctly, there were only a few areas they mentioned, I tend to think there are a number of spots where dust and air can infiltrate the inside...........Fred

Does anyone happen to know all of the key areas to seal with caulking or seam sealant to keep dust out of our old cars. Although I have a 47 Chrysler, the bodies designs for all 1946 to 1948 PDCD are similar,in structure, especially the floor and inside of the trunk design. In the trunk, the joint along the bottom edge that runs along the wheel well looks like a real culprit for draft and dust. The removeable floor plate is another, but this you would use foam weather strip on. The trunk weather strip, the door weather strip, would be areas of concern. But I do notice on a dusty gravel road, the body itself, is not so much a problem for dust, but a lot of areas on the floor seams and corners are invites for dust. I am going to be seam sealing everything tomorrow, so just looking for some experience with this problem. Unfortunately, I live 2 1/2 miles from the highway, so I have no choice but to travle on a gravel road with this car. Looks like a possible move in the future, not crazy about dusting up this and my modern cars all the time, only thing I detest about country living.........Fred

Norm, I agree on this point, all of my wiring is being re-done according to a factory schematic, with some minor alterations. I am using mostly 12 and 14 gauge wire, not using 16 gauge, even where I could use it, some of the car was wired with 16 gauge wiring, small light bulbs etc. Where it calls for 10 gauge I will use that also, such as horn wiring, one of the genny wires calls for 10 or 12 gauge I believe. I have wired in the following using 12 gauge wire, the wiper motor, the heater motor, the clock circuit I used 12 gauge, with a brand new inline fuse holder and a 2 amp fuse, the wire probably overkill, but it came with the fuse holder. One other thing I am not going to do as per factory spec, all the light harness has unplugs on a link under the dash on the right side, I am going to run my wire without breaks, from the bulb to the terminal block, I don't like connections, I know the factory made them, but reproducing that may not be so simple. Most terminal contacts, will be soldered, shrink tubing will also be used. So far, so good, have replaced a bit of wire already, but at least 75 % of the remaining wiring I will replace this winter.......Fred

Hi, I have yet to have an in-line fuse do anything like that, wow that musta been a lot of juice in that glass fuse to make it blow. The OEM wiring harness only has an inline fuse for the radio, clock, other items are on the circuit breaker. I am not saying this is ideal technology, but they did work for years. Most of the electrical troubles I have ever had were related to wire with poor insulation, causing shorts and arcs, poor ground connections, and poor terminal connections, to be honest, I have not had a lot of fuses blow on me in any car, only a handful of times in 30 years of driving my own cars............Fred

Nice work, nice color, too bad your spray booth wasn't closer.....Fred

Lookin good Chet, whats the next step, lookin forward to more of your updates. Just finshed painting the under floor and frame, with body on it's q real pain of a job...........Fred

Hi all, doing some re-wiring and plan to finish the rest this winter. my plan is to use fuse links on the following, the radio (14 amp), wiper motor (7.5 amp), heater motor ( 10 amp), lights ( not sure). I have a brand new fuse link on my clock circuit (3 amp),. There is a 30 amp circuit breaker on the light switch, a 20 amp circuit breaker on the linkto the gas gauge supplying wiper motor, heater motor, cigar lighter. I found great fuse links at wally world, the wire is 12 gauge, the fuse holder is very heavy duty, the price is a couple of bucks. Any other ideas, for this job, possibly the gas gauge, all lights etc, could be on fuses too, at present my lights,are on a circuit breaker..............Fred

Greg, so far so good, just go with what seems to work out right now, get the truck back together. With the body work and new paint it will look cleaned up and presentable. Get all the mechanics,interior etc. Heck enjoy driving the truck, then down the road re-do all the body work and get a paint job at Macco or whatever. It's all up to you, as you say it's a Truck, and it's yours, do what you think is right. I am sure it will turn out alright, as I know you will make it that way.................Fred

True enough, what about giving a spray of high build primer, but I suppose that would defeat the purpose of the low-buck roller paint. Along the bottom of the fender could you apply some gravel guard and roller over that, just an idea......Fred

Hi, here it is, about 95 % finished, still need to caulk seams with seam sealer, but I am realllll gladdddd, I am almost finished under there, all in all it turned out not bad, not a sgood as sanblasting a frame on it's own with the body suspended on supports of some kind, but pretty good just the same...........Fred

Why not do a little more body work, what is it highs and lows, filler showing , uneven surfaces. Even with satin or flat, you will see prepping, especially when the light hits it at certain angles. My car which is in substrate primer shows everything right now, but all the actual fiinishing body work is to be done yet. It depens on what your goal is right now, post some pics Greg, rreally want to see the results so far.............Fred

Wouldn't mind attending this myself if the timing works out, where do you think it would take place. I would be going in my modern car of course. Is it a one day get together............Fred

In Canada the Fargo trucks were on the 230 ci 25 inch block, in 1955 they switched to a 251, I happen also have one of these, I do own a 1955 Fargo 1/2 ton frame, complete with running engine, clutch,trans rear end, and fron end is till intact. I am wondering if I should try and find a body for it, maybe a nice future project, would a Dodge body fit on the Fargo frame..........Fred

Hey Dave, could that foam strip be used to seal the removeable floor plate to the floor in my Chrysler. I need to find some tpye of material to make a seal in this area.....................Fred

British Canada is referred to Upper and Lower Canada. Upper Canada is present day Southern Ontario, along Lake Ontario going north to the St Lawrence river, where cities such as Toronto, Hamilton, Kingston Ottawa are located, also referred to as the Golden Horseshoe. Lower Canada, area of present day Quebec. After the war of Independance, many Loyalist groups, feeling patriotic to Great Britian found themselves settiling in prenet day Ontario. The British North America Act ensued, Canada became a country on July the 1st 1867, our first Leader Prime Minister was Sir John A. McDonald, who was also a Barrister who had his practice in Kingston Ontario, in the Prince Edward County. Southern Ontario has county districts as the the USA does. Canada was not and is still not an Independent Republic as the USA is, we were and maybe still are a British Commonwealth country, however we are Independant with our own elected government and Constitution, our laws as the USA are based in British Common law, Quebec laws also may have a French Law system entwined in there unique history. Not to fault anyone, sometime I am still very surprised to know our Neighbours and I like to think best friends, the USA, does not know much about us. We share the same land mass, our populated areas mostly straddle the US border, our cultures and way of life are very similar, some of us even share a very similar accent/dialect, to certain regions of the USA. Not sure if I have helped or caused further confusion, I love your Country and Hope you enjoy ours too, from the first time I remember visiting parts of the USA, Iknew it was a great country. I once tried to join the US Marines, but they were not taking Canadians at the time, but I was 18 young and willing, was looking for adventure I suppose...............Fred

This is and only my own personal opinion here, and not to discount any other site. I have found this to be the best site by far, I belong to a few, they are all good, but this one is excellent, not only is it informative, entertaining, I have made a few friends on here, that have been very helpful in my pursuit of getting my 47/48 Chrashler up and running.If the club had been exclusive to 46 to 48 P and D, I would have been on the other forums, but this one is by far the best. Glad to be a part of the buzz on here...................Fred