55 Fargo

The diffs from early 40 s, to say, what 1953, you can switch hogheads directly. What is different about the newer years 1953 forward, can you tell from the outside housing. The 4.30 diff on my Chrashler is of unknown origin, so don't have a clue what it is from or the year. It does have two filler holes on it, one on the hoghead, one on the diff housing.............Fred

One more thing, is there a way to switch on the light via the head light switch, like some later mdel cars, this would dim/brighten the dash lights. But turning it completely to the right would turn on the dome light......Fred

How about under the dash, left side, there is a switch in this area for my Chrsylers map light. The pillar switch, is there any on the drivers side.The circuit is hot, so the juice is flowing from somewhere, I would try and trace it, rather than just undoing the bulb, good luck, let us know what it is..........Fred

We sell it, but to the best of my knowledge most of our fuel is not ethanol blended.

Well golly, you got me there, I kind of thought that also. On the serious side, if it appears to pump well, should any gaskets in it be changed............Fred

Shel, it's identical, I looked at Wallyworld, but they didn't have any, bought this one at Princess Auto, a chain in Canada. It seeems to work well, how is yours, it states for 12 to 24 volts, and a 100 amps, is this okay for 6 volt..............Fred

Hi Ed, thought you mentioned us Canucks were the "thrifty type", hehehehe. The same pump could have been bought in the USA for 65 to 75 dollars, when Phill bought the pump the US dollar was worth about 20 cents more than the Canuck buck, so it would have been about $80 US for the pump. I would do as you did, buy rebuild kits, in fact I have a real good pump here as a spare, not sure if it needs a kit though, how can I tell if it needs a kit.............Fred

Here is a pic of the Battery switch

Bob, will post a pic later, but its the turn the knob type, elcheapo made in China

Thanx randy, I have been wondering what to do with them as a matter of fact. Also, when I pull the drums, do I need to take my brakes off the backing plates, to remove the axles. Would like to disturb my brakes the least, as they are new and working...........Fred

Don, I say ask her boyfriend, he may be an body man, that way he could spend time at your place instead of going out somehwere.hehehehhe..........

Thanx Ed, Iam hoping it will bolt right in, and no problems with the axle splines either, I plan to pull the hoghead from the parts car this week, will have a good look then Fred

Post some pics, it don't sound that bad, a lot of us have been there done this fix. It sounds like it can be patched, rather than an all out rocker replacement...........Fred

Installed one of these yesterday, they are slick and work well. This way I can cut the juice to the car, when not in use................Fred

I know all of the diff questions are probably not making me popular, but I want to get all of my ducks ina row before thye big switch. The thing I am trying to figure out is this, the diff in the car is a 4.30, it has 11 inch brakes, so it's not from the big Chrysler, it had 12 inch brakes. This diff has an anti-sway bar, covered 9 leaf springs, and the shock protector plate is huge.I had to get slightly longer than stock shocks to fit. I am not sure if truck rear ends, had the anti-swaybar,covered leaf springs or not. My parts car is a 47 Chrysler, with a 3.54 diff, it has the anti-swaybar, covered leaf springs. I am trying to figure out if the 4.30 diff is a 40s, or 50s rearend, as the swap of hogheads, might be different using a 40s hoghead with a 50s rearend, in particular the axle splines. I think most trucks came with 4.10 gears, and the big Chryslers and Big Dodges, may have had 4.30 diffs with standard transmissions..................................Fred

Brendan, you ccan buy ever dry boots from Roberts for about $30.00...........Fred

Rodney, what gears have you got in the back end, 3.73s or 3.90s............Fred

Rodney, what tpye of wire,connectors and size of wire did you use to make the extra ground connections......Thanx Fred

Thanx Rodney, I will look into this.....Fred

Hi Jim, there is a stamp on the hoghead on your diff, there should be a stamp indicating the gear ratio. I don't think anyone on this forum, has been as unlucky as I, discovered I have a 4.30 rearend on my car, this was somebodies well intentioned idea, but it sucks to have these gears, I do have a 3.54 waitng to be installed. So you also have no fluid drive, mine is also gone, will not be returning to it either...............Fred

Bob, it's time to dust of the R10 OD trans, get her in the car, you can then cruise at 65 ,instead of 50 mph, or you can drive at 55 mph with a quieter engine..............Fred

Welcome to the forum Jim, I also have a 47 Chrysler Coupe, with a 3 spd standard trans, no fluid drive, and a flathead 6. Is yours the fluid drive, with the 3spd trans, what do you have for rear gearing. I am also in Canada, near Winnipeg, where abouts is Grafton, the only Grafton I have ever heard of until now is in North Dakota..........Fred

Plymouth and Dodges, had 3.73 gears in the 50s, the Chryslers had 3.54. But they could have also been ordered with 3.90 or 4.10 too. This is info that has been passed on to me recently..........Fred

Tim, my deepest sympathy, our thoughts and prayers will be with you and your family, with the loss of your Mom. My parents are both alive, and I know someday I will also face this...............Fred

Tod, that merging sounds like a Manitoba style manouver. Learned a long time ago, in Southern California, I might add, you accelerate, to get up to a decent speed before you merge onto a freeway or major highway, only makes sense, and it's the safest practice.