55 Fargo

Is the carb base the same as for the b and b carbs or is a different intake all together.

Hi Greg, your right about the simplicity of these carbs, just had a spare ball and ball carb apart and back together again in a very short time. Not a whole lot to em............Fred

Thanx Greg, will try this first, then see what happens. Can hardly wait till someday when I have 2 of these going at the same time. Or maybe I should try and set-up a 2 bbl Holley instead with headers or split exhaust. Has anyone tried the 2 bbl Holley route on a Mopar Flathead?

Sounds like a good idea Ed and Greg, I have spare gaskets from the last kit. I had a guy at work in the maintenance garage rebuild this carb in the winter of 2006. he soaked it in cleaner, used a new NAPA carb kit, all check out well, he used the method to tru the surfaces as we have described. So maybe your right Ed, just take off the top of the carb, check float, tru surface, and maybe use doubles gaskets on top of carb. I have a spare ball and ball right in fron of me, yes there quite simple carbs.........Fred

Normspeed, just got off the phone with one of about 5 carbshops in Winnipeg, the guy I spoke to is a 1 man shop. He stated my carb symptoms are as he said"typical of old carbs". His shop price $100.00 roughly to rebuild carb again, he sated he can get rid of any leaks, by truing the carb surfaces. So 100 bucks ain't bad, might take carb in soon, as I just love to keep spending a hundred here a hundred there, beofre you know it you spent 10 grand. I have got about $3000.00 into my car already, and there is a lot more to go. I suppose this is a better than drinking,gambling, womanizing and smoking, oh yah golf and fishing. I would someday like to rebuild my 251 engine, then go with dualcarbs/exhaust, disc brake cnversion, and maybe a T5 trans, my ultimate goal. Some guys figure I sould go modern V8 and auto trans, not my idea of fun..........Fred

Sorry Jack JCW does not sell the required 2 wire sender, they only have a 1 wire universal unit that you can buy anywhere, for $15.00. These will work on cars 1949 or 1950 and newer. You will need to open the wallet for a 2 wire unit from Roberts or Burnbombs for around $85.00. You cannot make a 1 wire sender work with a 2 wire gauge either. the only way would be to use a uinversal gas gauge and sender , wired with a 12 volt system.........Fred

Hi all, just went out to start engine, it went 2nd hit of starter button after 16 hours in cool garage 30 f inside. This is a lot better than before, since the install of a new coil/battery cables. But my carb is wet where the fuel line area is, not the line or fitting, but the top gasket area on the carb. I notice this everytime I cold start the engine. Is this indicative of the float allowing gas to be pumped in, even though it may be full? I also experience a lot of fuel boil in summer, I have my fuel filter mounted down below the manifolds close to the inner fender, it as far away from the manifolds as possible. Is this a bad location for a fuel filter, as it should not be underhood I have read as the heat will cause more problems with a filter than just a fuel line. Here are a few pics of my fuel line and filter...........Fred

Ed I have about an 18 inch over hang on the floors of my house too, it is a bi-level. My house was built in 1990, so it is well insulated, but when it's real cold this overhang on the floor is cool, so next summer, will remove the plywood cladding under there and add more foam, and vaporbarrier, hopefully that will resolve the problems.........Fred ps still smile when I think this thread still lives, look at the response and view numbers, unreal

Jack Stand Pat, Pat if I were closer I would give you a hand to move things along a little quicker...

Fireball, they do the same thing here in Manitoba, it's called a "Polar Bear Swim", last week guys were doing this in the Whiteshell park, where there is a number of lakes, pine country...........

Nah, at -10 we eat porridge and drink slurpees for breakfast, we save the back bacon for -40 with a shot of Crown on the side..........Fred

That'll work............

How would you know Mr Eastern Canada where, when it's -18c 0f they close everything down. Nah, I know your from a cold part of Quebec, 2 seasons, cold, and cold with mosquitos...............hehehehehe

[/img]How about we name the driveway Norm's Coupe "Loop", Scenic route from Street to the Garage. Norm, you are a real Gentleman, not being upset with this ribbing on a regular basis, you got a thick skin, and you know this place would not be the same without you, so forget about selling the Coupe, you have a place on here where you and it belong,Cheers would'nt be the same without Norm either, nor would this place.......... Nothing like a scenic ride on summers day

How about we name the driveway Norm's Coupe "Loop", Scenic route from Street to the Garage. Norm, you are a real Gentleman, not being upset with this ribbing on a regular basis, you got a thick skin, and you know this place would not be the same without you, so forget about selling the Coupe, you have a place on here where you and it belong...........

Hi Jack, was looking at a doc I have saved, on a 2 wire set-up, if #1 wire from gauge is grounded, it will display on the gauge 1/2 full when the gas tank is actually full and it will display 1/4 tank, when you your gas tank is half full. Are you experiencing these symptoms? Another thing, try and keep this topic if you can on this thread, until the problem is resolved. This allows are viewers continuity on this thread from beginning to a successful solution. I can send this 2 wire fuel gauge service page if you can PM me your email address........Fred

Remove the access plate and see how many wires arew hooked up to the sender, probably 2. Make sure you have good wires from gauge to sender, with good connections. If all fails, pull sender and gauge, bench test, one wire for pwer, ground both sender and gauge, use jumper wires betwen gauge and sending unit. Then manualy move the sender float, see what your gauge is doing. Make sure your wires from the gauge to the sender are in the correct positon............Fred

Both Roberts and Burnbombs sell brand new 2 wire sender units, about $85.00 each. Whats with this 3 wire thing, there is 3 contacts on the gauge, but open the access plate in the trunk and you should discover the 2 wires on the sender. Try cleaning up your connections first, then see what happens. What shape is this gas tank in? Should it be removed , cleaned, and reinstalled, with a working sender, and known to work gauge. Let us know whats happening, will try and walk you through this.........Fred

Dennis, it seems on here "Old" becomes "New" again often............

Thanx Normspeed, yes it s the B&B carb, i will see whats up with it, I have a spare on the shelf too. The spare carb is from a 1955 fargo truck engine, so I can't do a direct swap even though it's rebuilt, as my carb is the type with an electric choke........Thanx again Fred

Normspeed, it is from the top gasket, so yes maybe the float, or needle is the culprit. Would this contibute to hard starting, a little flooding too?

Okay boys, went out to the garage to try starting the engine. It is 30 in the shop, engine was last started about 24 hours ago. It was firing on the first few cranks, but required a 2nd hit of the button to start, so it is a lot better than before. But I noticed my carb body was wet with gas,why is my carb body wet with gas, after I had cranked engine and she started up? Might I be having a carb problem here? I have not got a new coil yet, still running the leaking coil, hope to pic-up a new one today. There $40.00 plus tax here in Manitoba...........Thanx Fred

Bob, whose engine and car is in the attached photobucket pics.......Fred

Glad it worked out for you Ralph, they also have the battery cut-off switches.........Fred