55 Fargo

Thought about it, getting 1 from a truck. Are you having low speed overheating issues? Do not think the bigger fan would help all that much on the freeway/highway speeds....

Hi Bob, things are looking good, hope all is well with you...

I would have thought you would have more jump off the line with the 4.11, than the 3.27, which would give you way more cruising speed. I think with your present engine, you would be harder on clutches, than the FD set-up. But your car with a hopped up 230 or 251, would no doubt be able to handle it. I have 3.73 gears in my 47 Chrysler coupe, a car about 600 lbs heavier than a 48 Plym, I havea long block 100 hp flattie, dry cutch and 3spd trans, it moves along okay, but with a fresh 251 it would be much better, with say an addtional 25 hp...

Greg, plus the Desoto with the M5 or M6 trans generally had 3.54 diffs, and as you said were and are heavier. I like the notion of the city driving from lights in 2nd gear, no clutch use, and being authentic to my particular car. This is just in the idea stages, I have all the items to revert back to FD, but will nto do it with present engine, will wait till I have my 251 ready to go...

Thanx Adam, it was sugested, how about a fluid coupler and T5 OD trans, now that would be interesting:cool:, but what about the input shaft:eek:

Hi , for those driving a Dodge or Desoto, or even a Chrysler, with fluid drive, and 3 speed standard trans. How much off the line power difference/loss is there or can be noticed, compared to a Plym or Dodge with 3 speed standard and regular clutch. I ponder every once in a while, whether to convert my 47 back to fluid drive, with 3 speed trans or 3 speed od trans, for originality, and comfort of driving reasons.....

This is an interesting point, as I have though of buying the GM single wire conversion alt. Can anyone report, on problems or failures related to this item, are they more durable than a 6 volt genny and reg? If you arre going to a 6 volt alt, should it havea higher amp rating, especially if you are running itmes such as voltage to 6 to 12 volt convertors. Does using a 6 volt alt, work better, if you have a 6 volt powered AC system, is there such an animal? Also, many members have reported that with a 12 volt conversion,there engines spin over much faster, and longer, with the 12 volt battery.I have used 12 volts to my 6 volt starter in the past, she spun much faster. Is this a just a case of feeding 12 volts to a 6 volt starter, as I know a few Guys doing this with 0 problems. To convert to 12 volts, in my case, which I have no plan, it would have to benefit me in faster hot starts...

I was thinking about the same thing, they have the H style 1000 lb engine stands for sale for $49.99 up here. Could I weld in some extra 2 inch square tube steel to reinforce, as I have plenty of it....

Thanx Don, that is what I figured, any reference to the C38 engines state full flow oil filtration. But you never know what filters were used on the first engines for 1946 may have been....

I have no idea if it is full flow or partial,just assuming, as per he size of the lines, it would depend on how it is plumbed into the block, would it not?

I dunno Tom, around these parts, we would not pay those sorta prices for a rebuild only or tired engine. I would venture to guess rebuild or tired = $100-$250, strong and rebuilt $500-$700 range, I think at prices between $1000 -$2000, gonna be a tougher sell, and there are lots of dreamers and gougers on Epay trying to sell things for high prices. I am sure the engine is worth more money, than it will be sold for, getting a buyer is another story. I do know if this were close to me, I would definately be interested.... shipping, a whole other story

Thanx Guys, I know there are Members who do not care for, plain old boring photos of a just a cruise...

Hey all, My 9 YO Son insisted we go for a ride at dusk. Ended up going for about a 20 mile ride, drove into town (Selkirk), then headed home, it was a nice ride, cool night, also drove him to school, it was darn near to the freezing point this morning, and the heater had the car toasty warm....

Thanx for the very detailed and thorough post, at this point, if the pistons don't loosen up, then will get knocked out, for a rebore and rebuild...

That is a shame, Minot is about 250 miles from where I sit.....

Ed, those old Internationals are great, I just about bought a 1949 KB1 in around 1979, but passed on it, sorry I did that. I have owned a few old Chevys, one was a 1952 GMC , but still lean toward the IHCs.....

Okay Sir, but AGAIN I AM IN NO RUSH, so will let soak, until it breaks loose or Ima ready to dsimantle, not a big deal. I am not being brutish with the flywheel or front pulley nut, but understand what forcing can do....

Thanx GS44, gonna let this engine and it's pistons take a long bath in the ATF or diesel, see what happens. If it will not budge, the crank comes out, so does the BFH and wood dowels......

So does my Boy and I, my Friend will ave the truck for us, if we want it, anyone else will have to pay more if they want it....

The other pics including the International truck, this engine spins free, and is quite complete.

Hiall, had some time to stop and see an old car friend to see how his projects are coming along. Here are pics of his 1956 Chev, ( he painted this car 15 years ago), his 1956 Caddy (Texas car), this car has a brand new leather interior, he is just going thropugh everything, beofre he gets her on the road, a beauttiful car. The whitewall tires are being given to me, as He is getting new ones. The 1936International truck, which my 9 YO Son wants in the worse way, and My frined says he will save it for him, if we want, or it may get sold. The 1949 Chevy, is in decent shape, but is dusty, and has not been driven ina few years, but needs to be cleaned up and driven, itr was a parts car he did not want to waste, so it got a paint job, with left over paint. It was a good visit, this Guy is another good old car guy....

You betcha, some locals went out there this year, 1 Guy drove his 64 Beaumont down there, and it is rough....

They are adjustable, mine had 49 Ford marked on it, I made the adjustmetns ,and it fit. Measure, adjust, and check many times, before you drill bracket holes. Have a someone help you, and use blankets to protect your paint and window, while your test fitting.....PS I did mine all by myself, a little tougher, but not bad...