Ajgkirkwood

Could possibly look for 318/360 wires. The lengths are pretty close

Bore/snap ring guages are nice for checking further down those bores. Check if they are tappered

How ever bore/snap ring guages are nice to have but take a bit to get used to using. The calipers are super easy and its always good to have. Light pressure is used on both tools to just seat it in the right spot. Too much pressure will vary your results.

With my chrysler when i did the brakes they had decent pitting and i did a fair bit of honing. Most of it cleaned up but could still see the pitting. I put new seals in the front (didnt know the rears were smaller) and all seems well. For me to get wheel cylinders it was gonna be like 600 cnd for all 4. I might as well go disk at that price

Your car is beautiful. Im jealous of the kind of work you can do!

Well the 318 was from an older dodge (80s) not afraid to do work. My brother says when the wallet closes, the mind opens. I really want to run the 265 cause every coupe i see is a v8. The ford 300 would be different for sure but how would slant 6 be? Im assuming with my low oil pressure ill need new crank and rod bearings and ill need the crank and rods redone?

When cycling oil through it we were using whatever we could get cheap because we were just using it to flush it through. When we got to the oil changes where it was to actually be driven. We used motomaster straight 30 weight. Bottle of lucas oil stabilizer and a bottle of zddp. This current oil change however is motomaster straight 30 with a bottle of stp oil treatment. I just saw this bottle at canadian tire. Loved the price. It has zddp in it and similar thickness to the lucas and similar things they do but this has the zddp and its 5 bucks a bottle vs lucas being 18 and the zddp being 12. Mind you the stp is about half the amount of liquid compared to lucas. I could always put 2 in

What would cause low oil pressure and how do i go about getting it higher

Wow its showing a 12 hour drive for me. What time in sept? Last chance car show is the last sunday of September

I can say they arent great up in ontario haha. I myself might be able to mill down the head myself though and do simple machining. I can use honing stones on the cylinders

That coupe is jaw dropping. I have to get hold of tim. I do think it be cool to keep it flathead. Will the crank rods be ok to use? My goal for the flathead is 150hp and 275-300 foot pounds of torque and gear it so it stays low rpm on the highway. Does the 264 use the same pistons from a 251?

There was a 1955 230 flathead about 4 hours me. It was 400 with 3 speed with overdrive. I know the od is rare but didnt know what it was missing to make work or if it would work with my car

Thing is from looking. I cant seem to find connecting rods and pistons for it. If i knew a good lead it keep the flathead. How i know if it has a fluid cupler

If thats usd ill screwed here in canada. The 318 with rebuild heads and other parts will be 400-500. Will need to find a trans. He has an auto...

I seen this a few times. This is part of my inspiration

From what understand the motor was a 265 with fluid drive. Its now mated to my 3 speed manual. I think they manged to get the transsmition to bolt up by ovaling the holes on the bell housing. if i go the turbo route i would make better flowing intake and header. I love to have 3 1barrel carbs on it i know ill have some fab work to do but from reading what i could find before the 318/360 is one of the easier motors put in. I have to go manual. I hate auto haha. last one is thr day it pasted its safety

heres my thoughts/idea when i read you post. You have a pivot point. And connect your hand brake in the middle of the bracket and the ford e brake cable at the opposite end of the bracket from the pivot point. What happens is for every inch pulled on the hand brake in the car. It pulls twice the distance on the ford e brake. Now this will become tougher to pull as you are covering twice the distance on the ford e brake. However there is most likely enough levage on the hand brake lever that it should still be decent to pull

Hello there. Name ia Adam. First post on this forum. Been trying to join for alittle while but the sign up gave me issues.... Btw what is the difference between a business and club coupe? This is my first classic and its a 1940 chrysler windsor 2 door. I have always wanted a coupe but never looked at getting on cause they are so much money. The car came up and the price was more then right. I had to make it happen. Had to get it. The car was owned by a man the same age as the car and with help from people it was kept running up till about last year. I was say and from what i heard it was driven hard and put away wet kinda thing. The orginal engine puked (he was on an lucas oil stabilizer fix from what i was told. Kept topping up with lucas. When the motor was pulled the crank i was told was blue!) So they got hold of a replacement motor. A 264 from a 1954 chrysler. The motor had a rebuild tag from 1964 and when they put the motor in about 2 years ago they cleaned out the pan and put new gaskets from what i was told. The motor had a carter 1bb carb that i guess was worn out so it was bored open and the jet drilled out. Well i guess it ate fuel. So now you have alittle back story ill get to the point. The car i got on the road and have been enjoying it. Didnt run but after a tune up it fired right up (2 of the 7 spark plug wires were completey corroded. It fell apart in my hands) when i did drive it i got like 6mpg. Did some messing around with the 1bb and it got better. I have switched to a 2 barrel and performance and fuel economy improved however im getting like 16-17mpg driving softly. I like to have better fuel economy for sure so i plan to switch the back axle. Which would be best and easy that im not sure of yet. I want to put disk brakes all around so guidance here would help. I have it running on 6v (it had a 8v battery) im thinking about going to 12v for easier starting and maybe put a radio in etc. now for the sinning. Beware those with sensitive stomachs dont continue reading you been warned.... the 264 in the car is mated to the orginal 3 speed of the 1940. It pulls aright but i like to have a bit more power. I like to get hold of a 4 or 5 speed thats synced. If i keep the flathead i like to do a draw through turbo and hide is to make it still look stock and look like its n/a at first glance. Not talking alot of boost. About 5-7psi. the motor however i wonder needs a rebuild? I do lose some oil over time. My oil pressure is about 25 going 50mph. Maybe 28-30 going over 60 mph. When i first got it running it smoked really bad and had alot of blow by. Its cleaned up alot since then (doing like 10 oil changes helps) so with all this said i think ill be pulling out the engine some how. I dont know how much it cost me to rebuild but it leads me to think if i rebuild it. It might be better to put that money into another motor to get the power im after? This leads me to the v8 (yes i know, boring. I rather the flathead) i have access to a 318 that had short block rebuilt for cheap. Its all cast though. But it be easier to get the transmission i want mated to this engine. I might turbo this motor too so its not like everyone else. i dont want to spent tons and im afraid rebuilding the flathead will cost the same or more then the v8 pic is of the car the day i got it running