Dennis Detweiler

Mine ended as a combination problem. Someone had set the timing way too far retarded. I couldn't find the timing mark on the crank pulley because it was so rusted. Previous owner obviously didn't try to find the mark. I used wet/dry sandpaper, finally found the mark and used typewriter white out to mark it. The engine always idled rough and tuning the carb made no difference. It would idle for a short time and finally chug to a stop. I reset the timing and valve clearance and replaced the original rebuilt carb with a rebuilt Stromberg and it now purrs.

I did the same thing. Rebuilt the original.

If I remember correctly, the factory wipers on my 39 are 10". 12" may work? I found a pair of NOS 9" still in the original box at a thrift store. I used my original 10" wiper hardware and bought some wiper rubber and cut it down to 10" and it fit the holder.

I think the ArmorAll idea would work. Flex Tape underneath the rips.

It's a sealed 5 inch beam. I have a cheap generic turn signal mounted on the bumper brace. I am trying to make it look more authentic and keep the late 40's early 50's fog lights, but use them for the turn signals. If there was a 5 inch glass lens that would fit the chrome housing, I could probably use bulbs. It's still 6 volt.

I have fog lights on my 39 plymouth. I also have cheapie aftermarket turn signals. Can I wire the fog lights for turn signals? Fog lights are Guide 2025-A. Do I need to add a resistor?

I haven't touched the dwell and timing on my 39 Plymouth since I purchased the car 3 years ago. I've been working on other upgrades to the car during that time. It was idling very rough, plugs sooty, stalling at idle. The vacuum meter showed vibrating needle as if it had bad valve guides. The timing marks on the crank pulley were covered in rust, likely for years. I checked the dwell and it was 50+. After finding the timing marks on the pulley the timing was 3 inches on the negative side of the marks. Adjusting the carb made no difference. I set the dwell to 39 degrees, timing at +2 and adjust the carb using the vacuum guage and set the idle adjustment to proper speed. Now it runs and idles like a new engine and the vacuum guage shows that the engine is in good condition. I only mention this in case someone finds their recent purchase idling as if it's valve guides were worn. A tuneup can solve this problem.

I was hoping for tension info that was more specific than the 39 manual which is "just snug". The 1/2 inch of movement or belt twisting seems more specific. Almost floppy might work? lol Then, tighten the holtzemfromphlopen.

I'll check it again after running for a while.

The 24489 Napa (Gates) belt is a cog belt. So, it's a little more flexible wrapping around the pulleys. I did the twist method and could only twist it about a 1/4. With that, I can turn the fan and it will slip the belt. I don't have a tension guage. I haven't started the engine yet. The belt that was on it before was the wrong belt and was too long and the generator couldn't adjust out any farther. That belt was too loose and flopped a little, but the pump and generator worked fine.

My 39 shop manual doesn't mention belt tension. I bought a Gates 24489 from NAPA which is the NAPA recommended belt. How do you all adjust to proper tension?

I had to replace the tank on my 39. It was rusted out (pin holes) on top and would leak when full. Initially I thought it was the sender gasket.

My situation was different. The plastic needle dome was warped and would hang up on the bezel when it got to 15 mph. I used a hair dryer to straighten it. Works good now.

Just finished setting the valves. I did a cold engine setting 10/13. Someone had it set cold at 8/10. I hope the valves aren't burnt. It's always had a rough idle, but ran smooth on the road. I'm going to check out the distributor when I get it back together and running. It has a 1942 distributor currently in the engine. Car is a 39. However, there is 39 distributor setting in a box of spare parts. The 39 distributor has new parts in it. Shaft is rusty like it's been on a shelf for a long time. Could be, the guy that was rebuilding the car never got around to installing the 39 distributor. He died before it was completed.

I got it to turn with the fan belt. The #6 hole over the piston has some casting blocking half of the hole. Too much to get a dowel to pass it. I'm using a bamboo skewer. I'll use the feeler guage to check the current valve clearances and jot down that setting for a curiosity reference as I reset each one. I'll use 10/13. I read somewhere, add 3 to the cold exhaust setting since it creates more heat than the intake. Add 2 to the intake. That would compute with Plymouth Adams suggestion.