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Dennis Detweiler

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Everything posted by Dennis Detweiler

  1. I haven't touched the dwell and timing on my 39 Plymouth since I purchased the car 3 years ago. I've been working on other upgrades to the car during that time. It was idling very rough, plugs sooty, stalling at idle. The vacuum meter showed vibrating needle as if it had bad valve guides. The timing marks on the crank pulley were covered in rust, likely for years. I checked the dwell and it was 50+. After finding the timing marks on the pulley the timing was 3 inches on the negative side of the marks. Adjusting the carb made no difference. I set the dwell to 39 degrees, timing at +2 and
  2. I was hoping for tension info that was more specific than the 39 manual which is "just snug". The 1/2 inch of movement or belt twisting seems more specific. Almost floppy might work? lol Then, tighten the holtzemfromphlopen.
  3. I'll check it again after running for a while.
  4. The 24489 Napa (Gates) belt is a cog belt. So, it's a little more flexible wrapping around the pulleys. I did the twist method and could only twist it about a 1/4. With that, I can turn the fan and it will slip the belt. I don't have a tension guage. I haven't started the engine yet. The belt that was on it before was the wrong belt and was too long and the generator couldn't adjust out any farther. That belt was too loose and flopped a little, but the pump and generator worked fine.
  5. My 39 shop manual doesn't mention belt tension. I bought a Gates 24489 from NAPA which is the NAPA recommended belt. How do you all adjust to proper tension?
  6. I had to replace the tank on my 39. It was rusted out (pin holes) on top and would leak when full. Initially I thought it was the sender gasket.
  7. My situation was different. The plastic needle dome was warped and would hang up on the bezel when it got to 15 mph. I used a hair dryer to straighten it. Works good now.
  8. Just finished setting the valves. I did a cold engine setting 10/13. Someone had it set cold at 8/10. I hope the valves aren't burnt. It's always had a rough idle, but ran smooth on the road. I'm going to check out the distributor when I get it back together and running. It has a 1942 distributor currently in the engine. Car is a 39. However, there is 39 distributor setting in a box of spare parts. The 39 distributor has new parts in it. Shaft is rusty like it's been on a shelf for a long time. Could be, the guy that was rebuilding the car never got around to installing the 39 distributor. He
  9. I got it to turn with the fan belt. The #6 hole over the piston has some casting blocking half of the hole. Too much to get a dowel to pass it. I'm using a bamboo skewer. I'll use the feeler guage to check the current valve clearances and jot down that setting for a curiosity reference as I reset each one. I'll use 10/13. I read somewhere, add 3 to the cold exhaust setting since it creates more heat than the intake. Add 2 to the intake. That would compute with Plymouth Adams suggestion.
  10. I'm assuming .008 and .010 are set with the engine cold? Would the settings be narrower on a hot engine or while it's running? Currently I have the manifolds off. I had a dual exhaust manifold on it and couldn't get to the front valve cover because of the location that was used for the front exhaust outlet. I'm going back to single exhaust and found another exhaust manifold. I'd like to get the clearances set before I reassemble everything. Set cylinder #1 with #6 TDC combustion stroke, #2 TDC set #5, #4 TDC set #3, etc. I tried the fan to get the engine to rotate, but the belt must be to
  11. Is there a best method to turn the engine to set valve clearance when working without a helper? I have the spark plugs out and the small plug removed from the cylinder head over #6. I don't see a workable method of manually turning the engine while watching for the compression stroke on each cylinder. Make a remote pushbutton switch to engage the starter solenoid in short bursts?
  12. I got the manifold and engine surface cleaned up and ready for re-assembly. I removed the valve covers and was surprised to find the inside free of sludge. Just clean oil laying in the low areas. Valve springs look good. Next, check and set valve clearances before putting it all back together. The shop book gives two sets of clearance numbers, one for hot and one for cold.
  13. I'll look into the conical brass nuts. Ebay also has several different kinds in that category. I got the broken bolt drilled out. Fortunately I was on target with the center punch. When I got finished with the drilling, the remaining old bolt threads unscrewed with needle nose pliers. All I had to do is dress the original threads with a tap. I'm happy that job is done. Next is to set the valve lifter clearances. Then start reassembly. I'm still undecided with single exhaust muffler choices. Leaning toward a long glass pack.
  14. I bought a stud remover tool, tapped on the stub several times and heated the block around it. I've been giving it shots of blaster for 2 days. The stud remover managed to twist off the remaining stub. So, I filed the little remaining stub flush with the block and punched the center of the bolt in prep for drilling. Looks like I have it punched accurately on center. This is a "bolt" that twisted off. Three exhaust studs came out with the conical steel nuts rusted onto them. I'm just going to dress the studs that remained in the block with a die. I'm not going to risk twisting any o
  15. The lower center intake manifold bolt was only finger tight. Both manifolds are off. The split manifold is not a true split. It's just has two outlets. The weld has a crack on one side, but I'll be installing a stock single exhaust manifold. I drilled out the 3 broken bolts that connect the two manifolds together and have them re-tapped. One of the two center exhaust manifold bolts broke off and has about a 1/2 inch stub. I have it soaking and will try to move it back and forth tomorrow.
  16. Thanks for all of the advice. One more bolt to remove. I picked up the brass nuts at NAPA this morning. I'll check the lifter valve clearance before putting everything back together.
  17. I'll be measuring the distance of the block threads and make sure the new studs don't go into the water jacket. After removing the old studs, it's plain that they were more than 1/4 inch into the jacket. Maybe the next owner won't have this problem. I'm figuring lots of sludge to remove after I get the valve cover plates off. When I bought the car, the owner said it had an overhaul 10,000 miles ago. When I had the pan off, the cylinders looked new and the cylinder walls had vivid cross hatching. However, since I'm in the middle of removing the manifolds, I don't see how they could have do
  18. I tried the back and forth method for a while, but it didn't seem to make any difference. It felt like the bolt shank was just twisting in both directions. Looks like they broke off at the threads. Likely flush? So a center punch, drill bits and eventually a tap to clean the threads will be the procedure? Looks like the only method for the lower bolt is a box wrench. The manifolds and bolts must have been on there for decades. The 3 broken manifold to manifold bolts were nearly rusting in half. The gasket is mostly gone. I won't know more until I can get the manifolds off of the block and ont
  19. The scenario and a few questions on my 39 Plymouth. I'm removing the split manifold and going back to single exhaust manifold, but will use at least 2" pipe. It needed new manifold gaskets anyway. I'll probably use a single glasspack muffler. Any muffler recommendations? The nightmare is the bolts snapping off. Before turning any bolts or nuts, I soaked them with Buster for several days with little results. Three of the four bolts that hold the two manifolds together snapped off. One of the two bolts that goes through the exhaust manifold into the block snapped off. All of the nuts
  20. I'm not sure about auto condensers, but I know that NOS electronics equipment (amplifier) condensers/capacitors can deteriorate on a shelf. Check the number on the distributor. It may not be original? I have a later model distributor in my 39 Plymouth.
  21. I'll be needing a gasket set for my 39 Plymouth. Best brand? Where to purchase? Should I have the manifolds resurfaced?
  22. Before removing the distributor, I'd try to retrieve it with a small magnet. Check with a couple of automotive parts stores and see if they have a magnet on a flexible shaft. I have a larger one that has saved me several times, but probably too large to get through the opening shown on your distributor. There may be smaller ones available. As far as the initial problem, maybe the condenser is bad and won't hold a charge? I would replace the small wire. After looking closer at the photos, I would also get a new cap, rotor and wires. That should cover any current or near future problems.
  23. When I bought my 39 Plymouth all of the wiring was bad. The horn just "clicked". The wire to the horn was rotten and not much of the strands making contact. After new wires and a new relay it was plenty loud. I added new ground straps from the battery to the frame and to the body. I added two fuse panels and every component is on a separate fuse circuit. No stone unturned.
  24. Does anyone have a casting numbers chart for the intake and exhaust Plymouth manifolds? Or, know where to look them up?
  25. That's great that you got the original shifter working properly. I still have my original cable and it's functional except the steering column end of the cable is worn down and not enough throw to adjust it to work properly. I may try to drill and thread the end and put a machine screw in the end and smooth the head of the bolt to add some length to it? It depends on how much metal is left to make the threads?
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