JIPJOBXX

Interesting up here as I was reading the ticket I got for this violation. If I paid the fine and didn't go to court with it to get it reduced than it was a pure fine but if I took it to court and put it befor a judge and lost my case then instead of being a non-moving in fraction it would be a moving fraction ticket. Boy you talk about being put over a barrel. A friend of mine stated to me that I should have gone to court over it but you know what? It would be just my luck to have the judge that believes in no liancy and my insurance rates would go up. Well live and learn and the state has a few more bucks to waste away with my donation. Oh by the way I have ran into a few other folks that never got there notice in the mail about there tabs being due so I don't feel so lonely. Jon PS. I now have in each of my cars a special spot inside that I can view to see what month my yearly tags are in need of renewing.

Yep glad I have two rigs with classic license plates also! My bus and of course my old Dodge!

1940 Dodge Truck for main foundation for an older rv vichicle:)

We ust to have them on the frount of the vehicle but to save a dime they just have them on the back. Yep do I feel dumb "Yes" but sometimes its the little things that just slip by I kind of wish my wife had gotten the ticket because maybe she could have perswaded the officers to let her go. Oh well life move on and its a done deal!!!!

Just thought I would post this as today I had to pay a heafty fine for out of date tabs. Up here in Washington State they either send you out a reminder or not. Well today comming back from my monthly breakfast with all my retirement buddies I got stop for expired tabs. I tried to talk my way out of it but with the state looking for every dime they can get he issued me a nice little ticket for 124 dollars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was a little bit flustraded but I made out the check and sent it in. I'm pretty sure I never got a notice and of course never looked at my plates for the proper date for experation. So from now on in each viehicle that I own I will post a little small note on my visor when it time to renew the tabs. Oh kind of funny but the last ticket I got and that was four years ago was at the same location that I got this one at Oh well life goes on!

If someone doesn't remove this I may have a suggestion for you. I have stated befor I retired as a Marine Machiniest for the Federal Goverment and have worked with all kind of removal gear. The picture attached is a button jack and can be used with your pulling gear. You may want a bigger head on the hydralic end but I never had anything could not be removed with a proper stongback and a jack like pictured. You might be able to rent on of these at your local rental store but that just my suggestion. You pulling gear looks like it would work as the strongback and if a two ton jack won't remove the hub than use a four ton. We used up to 250 tons to remove hub props but they were huge jacks.

The coil idea might be the problem with your car. I had this issue and it an easy test to do just run the engine till the car start to sputter and then shut it oft. Pack some ice around the coil to cool it down and then restart. If the car starts right up than I would invest in a new coil as the old one is probably shot. Just a trick I learned on this site and it worked.

Glad I only have one old car as one old car is enough to keep me busy! I have friends that have many, many cars and they will admit to me its a sickness that some people just can't shake oft. See an old car in a yard or alley or just anywhere that looks like a bagain and they haft to have it. I have been down that road and when you have one or two old rigs to me that enough just to keep you busy and that project might just get completed. But I think we all know that these cars can become overwellming and they own us not we own them.

I cracked both rear windows and each one cost about 75 dollars to replace. I know how it happen as I jacked up the car on the frame and left the windows in the up position. So when I do jack up on the frame I roll down the windows and this in turn takes the stress away from a closed window. Make sure when you replace the glass check out your repair manual as they are a little tricky to replace. Jon

When I got my old 42 it had a stardard carberator and it would also stall when comming to a stop. I replaced it with a BVX-3 carberator and it works just fine now. I might suggest that you watch e-bay and buy the correct carberator for your fluid drive set up.

I have a leak also and was just thinking of putting a depends up in that area!

Dodge produced 67,376 Vehicles and by the numbers my car was 1047 from the last built.

Yep I'm again wrong! Do not hit the end of the puller!

Have you used this type befor? Its just like my buddy's and it work great! Just hamer away and then hit the end and it should pop oft. Leave the axel nut on but loose or backed oft or the hub might just fly oft into your lap or foot or whatever. I never had to use heat but the hubs do fit tight.

Thanks and I will give it a shot. I took oft my new old seat covers yesterday by that I mean I put a set on the original seat covers 10 years ago and thought i would just check out the set that I covered. They are in good shape and I might just go back to using them. I'm going to try and save the old seat covers when I do the spring work. Just a little oft topic but this winter I'm going to change the outside trim to Royal Blue and then I don't think as many people will think its an Army car. The original seat covers are blue in color also.

What kind of drum puller do you have??? A friend of mine has one that is made by Snap On tools and its totally heavy duty. If you're using a light duty puller then I suggest you rent or find someone that has a puller that you can use a 8 to 10 lb sledge hammer on. You might also use some heat on spline part of hub. Boy I do not know about the gear set up but I have left it in gear with no trouble. I do know one thing that the factory torque setting is 141 inch lbs and they are tight!. Good luck!!!!

Like both idea's!!!!!

I was wondering if anyone here here has tighten up there old seat springs? Befor i take oft my seat covers I would like to know how to get a firmer seat cushion underneath my rear end. Any picuters here? Or information on how other people have tackeled this problem. Jon

Ok you guys figure it out???? The horn relay was the fault! Cheap relay where the wires attach to the body of the relay itself is insulated and one of the terminals was not making contact with the inside lead. In other words the juice was not flowing from point A to point B. I just soldered the post that was loose on cheap rivet and now it works just fine. The horn works when I want it to work. Now for all you electricians maybe you can answer this??? Why when the lead to the ground wire was loose would the horn blow? even when I was not touching the horn ring up on the steering wheel? Well another problem figured out in the world of my car. Jon

Back in my highschool days I had a rear 21 inch wheel come oft the hub and spun right by me as the car just went down to mother earth. I followed that tire and rim for around 200 feet visually and it stopped in some bushes. I got out of my car and retrived the rim and tire and remounted it back on the hub and away I went! Must have for got to tighten the lug nuts or something like that. Oh and one time i had the main clevis brake pin on one of my model A's fell out because I did not secure that pin with a proper cottor pin. Oh I had a girl with me and when i stepped on the brake pedal it just went down to the floor and I know I was in deep trouble so I just turned oft the road and into a field and let it stop itself or applied the e-bake.

Thanks will try that!!!!

For some reason my old horn wants to start to blow its noise! It doesn't do it all the time and I was wondering could this be the horn relay solenoid? It just once in awhile but today I had to stop and disconnect the wire that leads to the horn. Got any ideas? Oh and it doesn't sound loud either when this happens.

First of all its just a thing I thought about and yes of course you do not change out your m/c that often. Second you can watch the clear polly tubbing and pretty much see the level in the contration. I just watch it till the fluid is in the tube and then remove the unit. And of course if you need an enema you can use this also for this purpose>

Acceleration explained............Read this......it is incredible............ * One Top Fuel dragster outfitted with a 500 cubic-inch replica Dodge (actually Keith Black, etc) Hemi engine makes more horsepower (8,000 HP) than the first 4 rows of cars at NASCAR's Daytona 500. * Under full throttle, a dragster engine will consume 11.2 gallons of nitro methane per second; a fully loaded Boeing 747 consumes jet fuel at the same rate but with 25% less energy being produced. * A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to merely drive the dragster's supercharger. * With 3000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into a near-solid form before ignition. Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lockup at full throttle. * At the stoichio metric 1.7:1 air/fuel mixture for nitro methane the flame front temperature measures 7050 degrees F. * Nitro methane burns yellow. The spectacular white flame seen above the stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water vapor by the searing exhaust gases. * Dual magnetos supply 44 amps to each spark plug. Which is typically the output of an electric arc welder in each cylinder. * Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during a pass. After 1/2 way thru the run, the engine is 'dieseling' from compression and the glow of the exhaust valves at 1400 degrees F. The engine can only be shut down by cutting the fuel flow. * If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in the affected cylinders and then explodes with enough sufficient force to blow the cylinder heads off the block in pieces or split the block in half !! * Dragsters reach over 300 MPH +... before you have completed reading this sentence. * In order to exceed 300 MPH in 4.5 seconds, a dragster must accelerate an average of over 4 G's. In order to reach 200 MPH well before reaching half-track, at launch the acceleration approaches 8 G's. * Top Fuel engines turn approximately 540 revolutions from light to light! * Including the burnout, the engine must only survive 900 revolutions under load. * The redline is actually quite high at 9500 RPM. * THE BOTTOM LINE: Assuming all the equipment is paid for, the pit crew is working for free, & NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run will cost an estimated $1,000 per second. 0 to 100 MPH in .8 seconds (the first 60 feet of t he run) 0 to 200 MPH in 2.2 seconds (the first 350 feet of the run) 6 g-forces at the starting line (nothing accelerates faster on land) 6 negative g-forces upon deployment of twin 'chutes at 300 MPH An NHRA Top Fuel Dragster accelerates quicker than any other land vehicle on earth . . quicker than a jet fighter plane . . . quicker than the space shuttle....or snapping your fingers !! The current Top Fuel dragster elapsed time record is 4.420 seconds for the quarter-mile (2004, Doug Kalitta). The top speed record is 337.58 MPH as measured over the last 66' of the run (2005, Tony Schumacher). Let's now put this all into perspective: Imagine this...........You are driving a new $140,000 Lingenfelter twin-turbo powered Corvette Z-06. Over a mile up the road, a Top Fuel dragster is staged & ready to 'launch' down a quarter-mile s trip as you pass. You have the advantage of a flying start. You run the 'Vette hard, on up through the gears and blast across the starting line & pass the dragster at an honest 200 MPH.... The 'tree' goes green for both of you at that exact moment. The dragster departs & starts after you. You keep your foot buried hard to the floor, and suddenly you hear an incredibly brutally screaming whine that seares and pummels your eardrums & within a mere 3 seconds the dragster effortlessly catches & passes you. He beats you to the finish line, a quarter-mile away from where you just passed him. Think about it – from a standing start, the dragster had spotted you 200 MPH.....and it not only caught, but nearly blasted you off the planet when he passed you within a mere 1320 foot long race !!!! That, my friends.....is acceleration.