Roller Paint Job Update

[grey beard]

Welol, Merle Coggins, it's not like your great frame-off base/clear coat finish, but methinks it's good enough for this pilgrim. Still needs a few more coats and then a color sand and a buffing out so it REALLY shines, then it'll all go back together and I will have my garage back, after two years of taking things apart.

I'm pleased with the roller paint idea, but it is time consuming. On the other hand, I saved many bucks over going the conventional route. This paint job cost less than $100, in addition to the body work and miscellaneous supplies needed for it.

I'm happy.

[buds truck]

Welol, Merle Coggins, it's not like your great frame-off base/clear coat finish, but methinks it's good enough for this pilgrim. Still needs a few more coats and then a color sand and a buffing out so it REALLY shines, then it'll all go back together and I will have my garage back, after two years of taking things apart.

I'm pleased with the roller paint idea, but it is time consuming. On the other hand, I saved many bucks over going the conventional route. This paint job cost less than $100, in addition to the body work and miscellaneous supplies needed for it.

I'm happy.

truck looks great, you seriously did this with a roller??? looks to be a great 10 footer now, can't wait to see the after pic. I bought paint off of e bay for $39.95 a gallon and sprayed my 49 Plymouth with it, It turned out great (purple). look in my profile for a pic of it. Bud

[Merle Coggins]

Lookin' good, Dave. You'll be out and about with it soon.

My truck isn't a nice glossy base/clear paint job. It's just a single stage Imron, and it didn't come out as shiny as I'd like. I was still learning when I sprayed the green. It sprayed a bit dry and I got a fair amount of orange peal. It'll need to be buffed out or repainted to get a nice shine. I agree, it looks nice in the pictures though.

Merle

[55 Fargo]

Welol, Merle Coggins, it's not like your great frame-off base/clear coat finish, but methinks it's good enough for this pilgrim. Still needs a few more coats and then a color sand and a buffing out so it REALLY shines, then it'll all go back together and I will have my garage back, after two years of taking things apart.

I'm pleased with the roller paint idea, but it is time consuming. On the other hand, I saved many bucks over going the conventional route. This paint job cost less than $100, in addition to the body work and miscellaneous supplies needed for it.

I'm happy.

Hi Dave that looks great, will look killer once polished out.

Yes it was time consuming, but the prep is always time consuming in any autobody makeover.

Once all the bodywork and prep is done, the painting and wetsanding, can be done fairly quickly, if you are willing to work at it daily, till it's done.

I am really thinking of mixing Rusto (Tremclad paint), with autobody enamel reducer, and Evercoats universal gloss/hardner agent, and using my HVLP spraygun to lay on the paint.

I know it would turn out nice, and hopefully save a lot of bucks, that I don't have.

I am glad you followed through on this experiment, looks great........Fred

[55 Fargo]

Merle, what about wetsanding, then shooting on some clear, would that clean it up.........Fred

[Merle Coggins]

Merle, what about wetsanding, then shooting on some clear, would that clean it up.........Fred

It probably would, but that's low on my priority list right now. I've pretty much moved anything truck related to the bottom of any list. I've ignored too many things this summer to get it to that point. Now it's time to give it a rest and get caught up on other things.

Merle

[55 Fargo]

Today I took an old 48 Chrysler hood, and painted part of it with Gloss Black Rust paint, reduced 25 % with medium speed enamel reducer.

I then sprayed 3 coats on wet-on-wet, with my elcheapo HVLP Gravity feed spraygun.

It came out awesome, no runs, next to no peel, no fisheyes, would look even better with Evercoat DOI Wetlook hardner, I am impressed with this, might paint my 47 Chrysler Coupe with this method, really like the results, very shiny........Fred

[JoelOkie]

Fred, sounds like you have it going well with the paint. I am of the opinion that you should do and use what works best for you. Sounds like you are on to it.

When you use hardner add it to the paint and let it sit for at least 15 minutes or so before adding the reducer. I bet if you experiment further by turning your air pressure up just a bit, or opening your paint volume control slightly, you will have no orange peel , with still no runs. I did the same test thing with an old gas tank and a few wheels to see how well the paint I am using was working with the gun pressure, amount of hardner/reducer, ect., last week, and messed around with everything until I got everything set right, THEN turned out some nice, shiny paint work, (as you say, no runs, and no orange peel, ect.), on some fenders, hoods, and doors on my b1b. Had I just poured paint and went straight to painting my parts without getting set good I would have had a piece or two to re-do. Good luck, Joel

[hucks 50]

did you get the idea from hot rod mag.i am going to try mine that way also .looks good ,keep us updated.

[grey beard]

The original concept came from MoParts.com, a paint job on a budget. The thread has been running now over three years and originally began with Rustoleum paint and a guy from Canada who began it. The Hot Rod article was a spin-off of this thread, sort of encapsulated.

I used Brightside Marine Polyurethane and 4-inch foam rollers. Painted the thing in my garage, under wife's bedroom. No fumes and no overspray. Sorta neat, but takes lotsa' time, something of which I have much now in retirement.

Good Luck. Let me know if I can answer any questions for you.

[Philip G. Hurt]

Go to the net, under Poor Man's Paint Job, check out the results of a home done job on an '89 Cavalier......using Rustoleum from the local hardware store. I think it was Styluss Customs, Lakewood, Co......Ryan, the innovator. I am in Longmont, about 30 miles north of him, and he extended an invite to personally come and instruct me on the technique of his labor. A worthy possibility, especially with added info of Dave Erb and his success.

[Bob_Koch]

Here's the link Philip is referring to:

http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/?ALLSTEPS

[grey beard]

If any of you contemplate such a pain job project on your vehicle, please know that Rustoleum paint is good stuff, but it is still enamel. The paint I used is Brightside Marine Polyurethane, made by Interlux Co., and is much more resiliant to sun and rough treatment than any enamel.

After my grille panel was finished, I painted some ZeroRust on the inside. Wouldn't you know but I dripped some onto my fresh green paint - less than a week after it was applied. I scrubbed this stuff off with lacquer thinner, and the polyurethane was unfazed by all this. I was amazed. The paint is made for marine decks and salt water, so time alone will tell how well it holds up on sixty-year-old trucks.

After reading the post and threads in the article above that Phil mentioned, my first comment is that it would work best on newer stuff. My own Pilothouse was one rough truck. Every panel needed some sort of body work. Even the roof had been jumped or walked on and had lots of dings that I had to work out and fill. All body work requires careful finishing and featheredging of each primed spot - lots of work here. And like Rockwood said, preparation is the key to a good finish. My truck has nine coats of paint, with wet sanding between most coats. Last two coats were sanded with 1500 grit. When you get down that fine, EVER small imperfection and aritifact will show.

Basically, this paint system is for people like me with lots of time and little money. If you care enough to take the time, you can get a decent finish. JMHO:)

[55 Fargo]

If any of you contemplate such a pain job project on your vehicle, please know that Rustoleum paint is good stuff, but it is still enamel. The paint I used is Brightside Marine Polyurethane, made by Interlux Co., and is much more resiliant to sun and rough treatment than any enamel.

After my grille panel was finished, I painted some ZeroRust on the inside. Wouldn't you know but I dripped some onto my fresh green paint - less than a week after it was applied. I scrubbed this stuff off with lacquer thinner, and the polyurethane was unfazed by all this. I was amazed. The paint is made for marine decks and salt water, so time alone will tell how well it holds up on sixty-year-old trucks.

After reading the post and threads in the article above that Phil mentioned, my first comment is that it would work best on newer stuff. My own Pilothouse was one rough truck. Every panel needed some sort of body work. Even the roof had been jumped or walked on and had lots of dings that I had to work out and fill. All body work requires careful finishing and featheredging of each primed spot - lots of work here. And like Rockwood said, preparation is the key to a good finish. My truck has nine coats of paint, with wet sanding between most coats. Last two coats were sanded with 1500 grit. When you get down that fine, EVER small imperfection and aritifact will show.

Basically, this paint system is for people like me with lots of time and little money. If you care enough to take the time, you can get a decent finish. JMHO:)

The Brightside is good stuff Dave, and will or should hold up better than Rustoleum.

I spilled fibreglass resin on my 1 week old primered trunk lid, the primer is a Rustoleum type paint iwht auto enamel reducer, but no hardner, did not phase it.

Hey enamel is very tough paint, they painted stoves, and all sorts of outdoor equipment with it for years, it has a very hard surface once cured, the urethane paints, are definately glossier, should hold up better in the sun, but not sure if they are a tougher surface than cured enamel.

The guy who started the roller paining thread on Moparts, his name is Martin, he is a Canadian from Toronto, he has 2 cars painted with Tremclad (Rustoleum ), he has spilt gas on it, dropped heavy objects on the cars, and no problems with the paint.

One of the cars a 1974 Beetle, go into a sight fender bender, he repainted the fender, with Tremlcad, according to him, the old paint on the rest of the car was just as shiny, this was 5 years later, and no color/tint difference either.