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Manifold Installation Procedure ???


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Posted

Hi all:) , can someone either tell me or direct me to another thread, which states how to re-install the manifolds, for correct sequence, torquing, and tightening the 2 manifolds together, which is doen last i think.

Thanx all for listening to my banter on the bolt hole, etc, I am glad that part was solved, hopefully, the rest will be okay...........:) Fred

Posted

Fred ...if you split the manifolds..these msut be bolted together just snugly..then the assembly is placed on the bolck..starting in the middle and working out alternating sides top and bottom..snug these up to ensure they are slush against the block..then finish tightening the nuts alternately as before till tight...15 to 20 ft. lb then finish tightening the bolts that shol the two together..

This is in the manual...if you don't ahve a manual..you should get one as soon a spossible...this would give you instant access to the RIGHT information everytime.

Posted

Tim, I have the 41 to 48 Chrysler shop manual, I looked but could only find the torque specs.

I kinda figured it was as you have specified, should I use flat washer on the 2 bolts that are used, and what torque should the 4 bolts that hold the 2 manifolds together, 15 to 20 ft lbs too??

Once again thanks for all of the help guys on this one, hope to have it back together on Friday and running, then we can talk about overheating again, hehehehehe. I have a timing light and a tach and dwell, so I can check my timing now and see how things are going.................Fred

Posted

Here is some information from the tech tips section it is a good basic explanation of the installation procedure

" The service manual covers the reinstallation procedure but just few reminders. Use a die to chase the threads on the studs before re-assembly, and replace any studs where the threads are not in good shape. Also you might consider replacing the steel nuts with brass, except for the locking nuts used on the exhaust manifold at cylinders 1 and 6. Leave the 2-1/2 inch bolts which joins the exhaust and intake manifolds together loose until you have mounted the manifold back on the block. Use new gaskets. Snug the manifolds against the block, then tighten the two manifolds together. This insures proper alignment of the entire manifold against the block preventing exhaust or vacuum leaks.

Also make sure you put the proper nuts and spacers on the correct studs. The exhaust manifold tubes for cylinders 1 and 6 have special spacers and nuts. The spacer is concave on one side and this faces out toward the nut. The nut is split on one side. This faces into the concave surface. As you tighten the nut is compressed by the spacer, locking it in place. The manifolds by cylinder 3 and 4 use a wide flat spacer. Torque manifold stud nuts to 15 to 20 foot-pounds."

Posted

Thanx, the threads have all been cleaned, chased, the 2 bad studs were replaced.

Why is there 2 bolts used out of the 13 that hold on the manifolds, wonder why they didn't use 13 studs, propbably for side clearance.

Now when a bolt is used, does the part of the bolt that has no thread, need to be tight against the block, or does the thread sealer take care of any coolant leaking around the threads and out issue...........Fred

Posted

Oh I know about the split nuts, man were they tough top get off the 2 studs that backed out of the block...............fred

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