fixing the radiator upper hose connection

[martybose]

The upper radiator connection on my 47 looks like it is an iron casting that is bolted or riveted to the upper tank. Over the years there has been significant corrosion both inside and outside of this piece. There is enough material still there for structural integrity, but not enough for good hose sealing.

I've tried a couple of rather bush league fixes without success, and last time I wound up using a pair of T-bolt hose clamps torqued to 100 in-oz and it still didn't quite seal.

Has anyone come up with a way to repair this casting and come up with a smooth surface to seal a hose to? Would a relatively high temp epoxy work, or is there something else that someone has come up with?

Marty

[norrism1]

Marty, I always used Permatex #2. Doesn't harded like Permatex #1 and seals good.

Norris

[Jerry Roberts]

If the pits are real deep how about J B Weld ? Clean it well first and sand it after it dries .

[martybose]

If the pits are real deep how about J B Weld ? Clean it well first and sand it after it dries .

I've never used JB Weld, but I had always thought of it as something to stick two broken parts together, not something to repair a rough surface. Can it be sanded to a really smooth surface, or would it have to be epoxied after it was smoothed? I'm running Evans NPG coolant, and it will find any imperfection to leak out of!

Marty

[Norm's Coupe]

Marty,

I've never used JB Weld but I believe it is an epoxy material. If it is, most good epoxies are rated for temperatures up to about 240 degrees before they start to melt. So, it should work as far as temperature is concerned. Sanding an epoxy will not harm it other than scuffing it up in the sanding process. Should not affect the durability of it.

[Young Ed]

I believe the 24h drying time JBweld goes to 500 degrees. The faster drying time version is about where norm mentioned. It says on the back of the package what temp its good for

[dirty dan]

I've never used JB Weld, but I had always thought of it as something to stick two broken parts together, not something to repair a rough surface. Can it be sanded to a really smooth surface, or would it have to be epoxied after it was smoothed? I'm running Evans NPG coolant, and it will find any imperfection to leak out of!

Marty

JB weld would be a good fix. I've used it on a thermostat neck on an old suburban before. It can be filed and sanded after it's hardened. I've seen it threaded with a tap with good results.

[Normspeed]

I've used JB on therm housings and on the corresponding head area. Fill the imperfections as close as possible, sand after 24 hours, good to go.

Three things my toolbox is never without: JB Weld, Zip Ties ad a BFH.

[Jerry Roberts]

You might also take a real close look at the hose , a hose that has been tightened down so tight on a rough fitting probably now has a rough surface too , especially if if isn't a new hose .

[martybose]

You might also take a real close look at the hose , a hose that has been tightened down so tight on a rough fitting probably now has a rough surface too , especially if if isn't a new hose .

Good point! I've already purchased a new hose just in case.

Marty

[Norm's Coupe]

JB weld would be a good fix. I've used it on a thermostat neck on an old suburban before. It can be filed and sanded after it's hardened. I've seen it threaded with a tap with good results.

Norm, if you do it right you wouldn't need to drill and tap the JB Weld. We use to sell an epoxy repair material similar to it for industrial use years ago. If you need a hole drilled and tapped, that can be accomplished by doing the following. Simply coat the bolt you want to use with silicone spray. Then put the bolt where it's needed and keep it supported. Pour your JB Weld (or other epoxy repair material) around the bolt. After the repair material has cured, simply unscrew the bolt, it'll come right out and you don't need to tap the hole. We use to demonstrate ours like that.