Oil Pan Removal

[sam knopik]

I'm in the proccess of removing the oil pan to clean out the sludge. The shop manual says I need to first remove the clutch housing but provides no diagram and I am unsure what that is. I thought if I laid on my back and stared at it long enough I could figure it out but no luck. Any help appreciated.

[grey beard]

You do not need to remove the clutch housing - only the clutch inspection cover - the tin shield on the front lower half of the bell housing. It is held on by four bolts. Once that is off and out of the way, take all your pan bolts off and be prepared to force the oil pan off the block. A BFH usually works best - big fat hammer, what else - because the pans are usually glued to the block with gasket shellac. A soft-faced dead blow hammer is the instrument of choice here. Of course, you drained the oil first . . . . . .

Once the pan is off, take out the cotter key and pull the oil pump screen off the pipe. Pay particular attention to the condition of the screen. They are often quite clogged. Get it good and clean before you go back together.

Once everything is nice and clean, put some gasket sealer on the two long sides of your pan and lay the new gaskets on top. Then drop each of the pan bolts into the gasket and let the whole thing dry. In this way, when you put the pan back on, everything will stay in place nicely.

The two end cork strips fit tightly into the channels on each end of the oil pan. No matter how badly you want to do it, do NOT cut these fellows off. Leave the long ends on and put a dab of sealer at each of the four corners where these cork strips stick out. Get a few pan bolts started and then pull the pan into place loosely. Don't tighten any bolts until you have them all started. Pull them up evenly. It is possible to completely crush and cut the pan gasket by overtightening one bolt. You don't want tight bolts - you want a tight oil pan that doesn't leak.

Good luck. Let us know how things go for you.

[sam knopik]

OK got the plate of the inspection cover off and noticed there is a cork? gasket stapled to the inside and outside. Of course it is saturated. Should this/can this be replaced? I ask because it appears to be stapled in place.

Secondly, is roberts the place to go for another oil pan gasket? Or are they standard enough for NAPA?

[Young Ed]

Here is mine. Pretty sure these are the same as pilot house trucks. The long strip is pop riveted on and the curved one uses split rivets. I used carpet jute for the gasket material.

[sam knopik]

Thats it. Thanks. I've been amazed at the inventory of pictures everyone on here seems to have. Thanks again.

[Young Ed]

Sam now that I look at it again I think I used split rivets on both pieces.

[sam knopik]

On the P15-D24 board they had the link for the following NAPA part. Is this what I'm looking for on the B-1-D?

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=FPG&PartNumber=OS4250C&Description=Oil+Pan+Gasket+Set

[sam knopik]

I'm just now getting back around to re-install the oil pan. When I unpacked the gasket it came with 2 small rubber pieces about 1 inch long. What are these for? I did not see anything like them when I removed the old one.

[grey beard]

Sam,

Those two small rubber pieces are made to go on either side of your rear main bearing cap. They are sometimes included in a pan set because you would hormally renew these when you drop the rear main cap to change the rear main oil seal. If your rear main doesn't leak, I'd leave it alone. Only certain models use these rubber pieces. My own engine had none when I replaced my main bearings. LOL

[Don Coatney]

I'm just now getting back around to re-install the

oil pan. When I unpacked the gasket it came with 2 small rubber pieces about

1 inch long. What are these for? I did not see anything like them when I

removed the old one.

Is this what you are looking for?