Brake and clutch pedal shaft

[Jim Gaspard]

Can the brake and clutch pedla shaft be removed and easily. I have new bushings being pressed into the pedals and the shaft is a little worn. While everything is apart, I want to change the shaft too if its possible to remove. Has anyone been down that road?

[grey beard]

Jim,

Looking at page 6-2 of the Pilothouse parts book, the shaft is one piece that also includes the clutch fork, itself - that piece that holds the throwout bearing in place. That said, it means you will most likely need to remove the transmuission bell housinmg before you can remove this shaft. Looking at the picture in the parts book, I'll guess that more than half of the shaft's length is inside the bell housing, and runs across to the oposite side.

The shaft is originally 3/4-inch in diameter. My own shaft showed some small amount of wear, but the new bushing on the brake pedal fit on nicely with just a small amount of play. In a perfect world, I'd have replaced my own shaft, as well, but I had already overhauled the engine in the frame, and had no other need to remove the drive train. If your own unit is apart, by all means, replace the shaft if you can find a new one. THAT may ve a challenge. JMHO

Let us know what you decide.

[Merle Coggins]

By your picture it appears that you have a Fluid Drive setup. That shaft will come off. There are 2 bolts that attach the center shaft support to the bottom of the bell housing. Then you can remove it from the bell housing. And now that I think about it... you must have had it off to get your brake pedal off. The clutch release fork shaft is a seperate shaft with Fluid Drive.

Merle

[David A.]

Merle is correct. I just removed my Fluid Drive Brake and Clutch pedals and re-bushed them. I also replaced the shaft. After removing the 2 bolts on the center shaft support, the shaft will slide out of the bell housing. Mine was a little snug so I sprayed it with penetrating oil and turned it back and forth as I slid it out. Once it is off the truck, there is a small pin that is holding the shaft to the support. I drove it out from the bottom side then the shaft slid out of the support.

[Jim Gaspard]

I put the shaft support back on for the photo. I do have fluid drive. The shaft still won't budge but now that I know it will slide out, I will be a little more persuasive this weekend. Where did you find your replacement shaft, or di you have it milled?

Thanks,

[David A.]

I had to have one made. It was a very easy job. It's basically a piece of bar stock cut to length and a hole drilled for the pin to hold it in place on the center shaft support. Don't forget to stake the pin in place on the center support shaft. That pin is the only thing that keeps the rod from working it's way out!

[Jim Gaspard]

I want to keep my shaft resolution in the right string so I'm re-posting here.

I also have a B3B. I'm down to the frame for sandblasting and needed to remove the engine to get it away from all the grit. I had earlier tried to remove the pedal shaft from the bellhousing in the frame but couldn't get much leverage nor movement. Today I lifted the bellhousing out (w. engine/tranny attached). I then removed the tranny and was able to blast lubricant on shaft inside the bellhousing as well as outside. I was able to grab the shaft with a pipe wrench and twist it several 360 deg turns. The shaft finally twisted out. I have the pedals in a machine shop to punch in new bushings. Now I can replace the shaft with new 7/8" steel rod stock.

Thanks to all for walking me through the steps.

[grey beard]

Jim,

You might want to remeasure the shaft. Mine was 3./4-inch diameter, not 7/8-inch. Sounds like you've got the problem licked. Good luck.