Lou Earle Posted December 26, 2007 Report Posted December 26, 2007 I am thinking about paint one car using the rusteolium or interlux paint with roller/sponge brush or bristle brush. My question is why thin it so much and 30 to40 percent? I would seem to me that the paint is designed to go on metal with only a max of 10 percent mineral spirits as thinner- so why 5 to 8 coats thin. I am going to experiment- I bought a can of rustoleium and had it tinted- Pepto bismo pink! Will be painting it on old 50's Plymouth- got that Tim - putting it to good use again with various applications just to see what happens. Will let you all know but I still do not understand the heavy thinning- unless you were going to spray it Lou Quote
oldmopar Posted December 27, 2007 Report Posted December 27, 2007 If you have sometime to read here is a long thread from the moparts forum on the subject Ed http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 27, 2007 Report Posted December 27, 2007 Lou, go to www.moparts.com, and look up "Paint Job on a Budget parts 3". The idea is to thin the paint to the consistency just better than water. You lay on thin coats, wetsand every 2 coats, for a toal of 6 to 8 thin coats, do a final wetsand with 2000 grit, then you poilish it all out with buffer and polish. The heavy thinning allows the paint to be rolled on, very thin, it allows the paint to self-level,minimal orange peel or bubbles, thinning it allows you a long pot life for rolling. Lou try a fender, or hood, using the prescribed method, it works well, but there is a learning curve to it. There are plenty of "case precedence", that make this a viable method to paint a car, love it or hate it, it does work, but there is work to the process, but for the average guy, who knows nothing of painting cars, has no equipment, and does not want a lot of overspray, this may be the ticket.......................Fred Quote
hkestes41 Posted December 27, 2007 Report Posted December 27, 2007 There was also an article in Hot Rod magazine painting a Falcon. Here is the link. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html Quote
PatS.... Posted December 27, 2007 Report Posted December 27, 2007 I think the thinning promotes the self-leveling of the paint to get rid of any brush or roller marks and make it nice and flat and shiney. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 27, 2007 Report Posted December 27, 2007 I found the thinning of the paint is to extend the drying time and allow for smooth even application...and though I used a better quality reducer when I did my test...mineral spirits may be the better thinner..however I am not sure if the mineral spirits will be compatable with the hardner and no way will I waste any paint or time to do a top coat without hardner in the mix..this is the wear factor in the mix and promotes gloss... I did a 3 by 7 steel door..and found that I will never do a roller top coat while I have my spray equipment..even a low cost cheap paint gun is by far a better method for application. If doing by panels..even a cheapo compressor should be sufficient...if you are doing a body that does not have a natural cut line..a larger compressor may be needed.. Quote
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