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Posted

I do not know anything about the DCM MC conversion.

Another popular conversion is the 1992 Toyota Celica MC. Simply because of the 3 bolt mounting.

You would need to auger out one of the holes to make all 3 line up.

You need 2 fittings to convert from 10mm metric to 1/4" brake line.

You need to shorten your existing brake rod from pedal to MC.

Then figure out the brake line connections ... remembering you need to add in a brake light switch. Your existing pressure switch is mounted to the old MC.

You can add in a T to the brake lines and mount it there, I went with a electric switch.

 

The advantage to the Toyota is ease of converting, availability if need future replacement.

If running 4 wheel drum they will work fine without a proportioning valve ... If you add disk then you can select and add a proportioning valve.

Many trucks running this conversion and not seen any complaints yet. I converted mine but still not driving it yet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I decided to narrow my focus to one issue at a time. So I chose the front end (steering) that jerked hard while turning.  I replaced the tie rod ends and the steering cross bar hoping this would smooth out while turning the drums left to right.  It's still clunky at points.  i really didn't want to do the king pins yet as I planned to convert to disk on the front later and that requires 16" with the kit from DCM.

 

Could any of the issue be in the steering box?  How would I test that without taking it out?  I opened the plug and the oil was milky brown (see pic).  It doesn't seem to be leaking ... yet.

Steering box1.jpg

Posted

On my B2B someone tightened the gearbox way to tight and it galled up the worm gear in one spot. Whenever the sector shaft bearing got to that area it would bind slightly then jump past it. Made it difficult going around certain curves in the road because it was right on top of that bad spot. I would pull and pull and finally it would jump past that spot and it would wind up turning more than I wanted it to. 

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