Dimmer Switch Replacement

[Sam Buchanan]

Returning from a country road run after dark recently (and during the season when deer are really active!) I noticed the headlights would occasionally briefly go dark as I switched from low to high beam. I took this as the original 1948 dimmer switch telling me it has gotten tired and is ready for retirement. I believe we should always listen to our cars when they are trying to tell us something! 

 

Not wanting to be suddenly left blind on a very dark and winding country road I decided to replace the still mostly functional switch. Andy Bernbaum has the switch listed for $35 plus their steep shipping rate but Rock Auto has a direct replacement Standard brand, made in the USA switch for less than $25 shipped to my front porch. Easy decision.

 

The box states made in Mexico but the switch is stamped Made in USA.

 

 

 

There is enough slack in the wiring harness to pull the old switch up into the engine compartment for relatively easy access. Of course the old cloth insulation was in pretty sad condition. The battery was disconnected to eliminate getting across something hot while handling the harness.

 

 

 

 

The new switch uses screws instead of bullet connectors but this wasn't a problem since the old insulation needed attention. I unwrapped the harness enough to get back to good wire and shrink tubing was slid down over the old insulation prior to new eyelet terminals being installed with a proper ratcheting crimper. 

 

 

 

 

 

The mounting threads in the new switch are metric so the old mounting bolts have to be replaced. The old switch has the HOT lead on the "left" terminal but the new one has HOT on the right terminal, the housing is stamped for easy reference. It makes no difference which of the remaining two terminals get high or low beam, just make sure the dash indicator wire is attached to the high beam terminal.

 

Maybe this will be useful for those who may need a new switch, it's good to know we can still get a good quality, bolt-in replacement. By the way, the halogen sealed beam headlights on my 6v car are very good, I've given the grounds some love and the alternator feeds the bulbs at least 7 volts even at idle.

 

Edited December 11, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[Plymouthy Adams]

I would suggest investing in a nice set of staking pliers....Klien or Stake-On brands come to mind...   

 

I like my dimmer switch....the little red button on the shift knob...and like most modern cars today, it is operated by the left hand as the car is RHD.....(the console I installed ahead of the shifter leaves zero room for the original switch and plinth)

 

 

Edited December 11, 2023 by Plymouthy Adams

[Sam Buchanan]

Naw.....I much prefer ratcheting crimpers, they apply the same force every crimp regardless of the forearm strength of the operator.

[Plymouthy Adams]

you neglect the fact I called two specific brand...these are calibrated....of course you squeeze them but you CANNOT over crimp....

[Sam Buchanan]

15 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

you neglect the fact I called two specific brand...these are calibrated....of course you squeeze them but you CANNOT over crimp....

 

But you could under crimp.......

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes, I guess you probably could...