12 volt starter question

[woodscavenger]

I have a 50 B1B with a 25" 237ci block. It is being converted to 12v. Are there any starters that have an attached solenoid so I can get rid of my in-cab floor switch that are meant for 12v systems?

[Tony_Urwin]

I have a DeSoto with the long block. George Asche's son rebuilt mine for 12V.

The flatheads were manufactured until about '62, right? Seems like the starters from any late fifties flathead would be 12V. Maybe someone else could confirm that.

[PatS....]

Vintage Power Wagons has a 12 volt starter for the long block:

http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/catalog/pdf/group6-electrical.pdf

Doesn't look like from the pic that it has a solenoid, but the guys at VPW should be able to get one for you.

[Don Coatney]

Long block, short block may not make a difference in starters. I have a short block starter starting my long block engine. But I am using a short block bell housing.

[kencombs]

Is there a bendix that can be used on the original foot actuated starters that would work?

Just adding a starter relay and switch along with changing the starter drive to a Bendix drive would be great is one exists!

[kencombs]

I forgot on my previous post.

I have used a number of 6v starters on 12 systems and never had a problem.

Yep, they really turn fast! But, never wore one out. My dad owned a salvage for 30 years and one of the yard winch trucks was an old Chevy 6 with a 12v battery and 6v starter. It probably got started up more in a month than the average car would in a year. Same starter for over 20 years.

My message is, just find a bendix drive starter and don't worry about the voltage.

[grey beard]

All the MoPar cars of similar vintage are solenoid starters. Blocks are simila. You could use an auto starter on your truck and a solenoid with push button or "crank" position on the ignition key if you're tired of pushing down the plunger. Might get rid of another rattle/draft hole as well, in the process. My own starter is a fresh rebuild, or I would attempt to go this route. According to Don Coatney's post, it matters not which size block you are using, so it should be a bolt-in improvement. Let us know how it works. AND you could use a remote starter switch when working under the hood, instead of the tire iron I have to use now. LOL

[Don Coatney]

You might want to reconsider keeping the foot starter. I converted to 12 volts and originally used a 6 volt solenoid activated starter. Problem is the solonoid activates at twice the speed and the starter spins at twice the speed. This means the starter motor is spinning at full speed when the teeth hit the ring gear. I did not like the sound of the "clang" every time I hit the starter button and I could envision chunks of metal being removed from the ring gear. So I replaced my 6 volt starter with a 12 volt starter and the problem went away. With a foot operated starter the starter motor gear has engaged with the ring gead before the starter motor starts spinning. I would think a 6 volt starter would work well using 12 volts with a foot operated starter.