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Posted

I just finished installing a gear reduction starter from Snap Rebuilders (https://snap-usa.com/products/1950-1955-dodge-plymouth-mini-12-volt-starter-replaces-mch6101) and thought I'd share some of my thoughts and findings. This is for my 1951 B3C.

First, the reason I was changing the starter was that the Bendix drive was going out. I could have just replaced the drive but the rest of the starter really needs a rebuild also. It was already a different starter than the original. A previous owner had changed it from the foot start to key start. He also did a partial 12 volt conversion but the starter was still 6 volt. It was an MCH-6201. Snap lists it as a replacement for MCH-6101, MCH-6102, MCH-6206, MCH-6205, MCH-6202, MAW-4041, MCH6305 but not the 6201 and doesn't list these for the truck but I was sure it would fit.

I ordered it online on Sunday and got a notice within an hour that it was ready for shipping. It arrived by UPS this morning.

The first thing I noticed is that the bolt holes in the starter are a bit elongated. It looked like it was going to be a sloppy fit but it ended up lining up well. The bolts are much harder to get to. I had to use a socket and extension. I could use a combination wrench of the original starter. Also, the wiring ends up on the bottom so I wired it up before installing it.

The new starter has the solenoid built in so I eliminated the one mounted on the firewall. The starter comes with directions on different ways to hook it up.

After reconnecting the battery cable, I turned the key and it worked perfectly. I tried it multiple times and even disconnected the coil wire to just let it crank for a while. I sounds very good. I couldn't be more pleased.

It cost just over $300 for it with shipping. Even with the price, I would seriously consider doing it again if I ever need to on any of my other projects.

Posted

I thought I had made a fatal error with this. I found that there was not enough clearance for the brake pedal arm. The starter would limit the brake pedal travel to about half way to the floor. Luckily, the flange on the starter is designed to be repositioned. there are 7 positions that it can be rotated to. I rotated it so that the motor sits directly on top of the gear reduction housing. Everything clears. It also looks better and there is easier access to the lower mounting bolt and the wire connections. I was really seating there for a while.

Posted

I'm going to have to try getting into the habit of taking pictures as I do some of this work. It's just not something I've ever done. Here is one I just took this morning. I still nee to go back and "pretty up" the wiring. 

New Starter.jpg

Posted

Surprisingly not.  A long extension for the 3/8" drive ratchet slipped right in between the starter and engine. I was able to get the bolt lined up with my fingers.

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