Disassembly of governor M5 hydraulic transmission

[harmony]

I was very fortunate to come across a parts car a couple years ago.  Included was a complete 251-fluid drive-M5 Transmission.  I was told it was running and it had been filled with ATF. 

Since it was raining today I wasn't into going for a cruise so I thought I'd test the electrical components on my spare trans. 

I found more info in the Service reference book  "diagnosing the hydraulically operated transmission"  supplied by imperialclub, than in the service manual.

I pulled the solenoid and did a bench test and it works great.  One down 2 to go.

I pulled the interrupter switch and in the service reference book it only suggests how to test it if the car is running and you'd put it up on jack stands and put it in gear,,,,  etc etc.  Is there a way of simply bench testing it the same way as the solenoid? 

According to the service reference it sounded like I would just unscrew the 4 machine screws and remove the cap to get at the points and the rest of it.  But after removing the screws the cap wouldn't budge.  I tried wedging the cap gently with a wide slot screwdriver and still nothing.  Then I tried putting the end of the slot screwdriver against the lip of the cap and tapping the screwdriver with a small tack hammer.  Still nothing.

Any ideas as to how to get the cap off?

 

Edited March 20, 2022 by harmony

[Tom Skinner]

Its just stuck, work it loose patiently. If and when you get it apart clean the points with a pencil eraser - gently.

They are Silver and will damage easily. Likely your gasket has the cover stuck shut. spray some WD on it???

Tom

[Dodgeb4ya]

On the interrupter switch (single post threaded stud)...use a ohmmeter...

With the interrupter removed..push the ball inward, ohmmeter should show continuity... release the ball none....open circuit.

Be careful to try to not damage the governor gasket as it's thickness if replaced with too thick or thin  affects cut in/cut out speeds for auto shifting.

Edited March 21, 2022 by Dodgeb4ya

[harmony]

32 minutes ago, Tom Skinner said:

Its just stuck, work it loose patiently. If and when you get it apart clean the points with a pencil eraser - gently.

They are Silver and will damage easily. Likely your gasket has the cover stuck shut. spray some WD on it???

Tom

Thanks and yes I remember reading about the pencil eraser in the reference book.

[harmony]

20 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

On the interrupter switch (single post threaded stud)...use a ohmmeter...

With the interrupter removed..push the ball inward, ohmmeter should show continuity... release the ball none....open circuit.

Be careful to try to not damage the governor gasket as it's thickness if replaced with too thick or thin  affects cut in/cut out speeds for auto shifting.

Good to know about that gasket, thanks.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Inside the governor....point contacts

[harmony]

4 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Inside the governor....point contacts

That's awesome.  I was about to ask if there were any illustrations as to what to expect when I get the cover off.  Pictures are even better. Thanks.

[harmony]

Dodgeb4ya, The ohmmeter checked out the interrupter switch to be in good working order, so thanks for that procedure.  Here's a picture of what it looks like in case anyone is curious.

[harmony]

After a little more persistence, the cap finally came off.  Everything looks to be in fine shape.  I found that vent hole so I added a few drops of 10W oil in plunger.  All the counterweights seem to be free and operating nicely.  I wasn't quite sure how to pull them out so I just left well enough alone.  The points look like that have been touching a little off centre, but then again, I'm almost the same vintage as they are and I'm not perfectly aligned anymore either ? 

Here's some pictures for anyone who might be curious.

[harmony]

[harmony]

[harmony]

I was thinking,,,,,,,,,,  What would it take to bench test my spare engine/ fluid drive/ M5 trans?  I'm certainly not a mechanic or an electrician so I'm not sure how many components I would need to test the drive train.  So far everything has checked out to be in good working order.  I also have a spare radiator that doesn't leak.  The inside of the transmission relay checks out to be in good working order as well.  I have a spare EV1 carb that is rebuilt that I can put on it.  I checked the oil today and it is crystal clear. Maybe I changed the oil when I got it, but I sure don't remember doing that.   The cylinders were filled with ATF when I got it and I've been turning it over regularly once a month for the last 3 years.  With a little effort I can compare positioning of the transmission levers to my 48 Chrysler to find neutral.  I'm not sure what I'd have to do to operate the clutch lever though.  Maybe weld something up to simulate the real thing.  If I simply wire it all up, and do some plumbing,  would I be good to go?