Factory Woodgraining

[Heavy Flat Head]

If I remember right a couple people have ask about woodgraining like the factory did. On the h.a.m.b. today I found this site https://www.woodgraining.com/

It explains how the factories did the woodgraining and sells the materials

Here is a link to a 37 Plymouth dash that was done using there supplies.

http://rbicycle.iserver.net/cgi-bin/photos/emAlbum.cgi?c=show_thumbs;p=Interiors;i=9;pg=2

The site has videos showing how it is done. Really neat. Of course the price is not cheap but the results I think would be worth it.

[Ken Bartz]

I have purchased Grain-It Technologies kit and done some woodgraining on my Plymouth. I cannot believe that they would use this technique on a mass production situation. Getting in to corners is just about impossible unless you use a small brush and do it all by hand. This process is just too labor intensive.

I tend to believe that the original process was done by dipping the whole part into a liquid solution after the metal was stamped into the final shape. It sure would be nice to know how it was really done at the factory.

[David Maxwell]

It takes time to get good at it, but you can reach the corners and get results just as good as the factory. I use this process myself. Like any skilled process, it takes time, patience and perserverance to get good at it.

I have looked at hundreds of orignials. I currently have thirty P-15 dashes and about forty garnish moulding pieces. If you check your original garnish mouldings, you will find that there were plenty of errors made at the factory. In fact, the errors/blemishes show clearly that the "roll-on" process was used.

[Heavy Flat Head]

By looking at the pictures I do think this was one way the factory did this. One must remember that labor at the time was one of the smaller costs. With so many cars being produced with this style, there was more than likely many workers who spent there whole working life doing this. Like every thing else with practice it would go a lot faster. If it was just a matter of dipping the part, I would think that it would still be done today. Just my 2 c worth .

[Ken Bartz]

This is the dash I did for my 1940 Plymouth using the Grain-It method. It took me very many attempts to get the corner so it looks decent. The pattern is called "Currly Maple". Then when it was installed most of the outside edges were covered up with trim. What do you think?

[Heavy Flat Head]

This is the dash I did for my 1940 Plymouth using the Grain-It method. It took me very many attempts to get the corner so it looks decent. The pattern is called "Currly Maple". Then when it was installed most of the outside edges were covered up with trim. What do you think?

Do you have more pictures?

Love pictures;)

Would you do it again?

[RobertKB]

Ken, to answer your question.....I think it looks absolutely wonderful. I would be damn proud to have that in my car! Congratulations on a great job!!

[randroid]

Gents,

In a 1956 book on restoration I got from the library 20 years ago I remember it being said that woodgraining was done on the metal prior to being stamped. I don't recall it being WPC specific, but it would make sense for them to do it that way.

However it was done, I don't care and am not trying to stir a controversy, just mentioning what I read in a mid-50's book.

-Randy

[Ken Bartz]

Here is a example of how you have to overlap and the use a tiny brush to blend in the details. This can be very tedious work. You can see four different areas that have different patterns.

I did obtain another 40 Plymouth dash an I tried to make another one. I became so frustrated with trying to do the corner area again I gave up.

[oldmopar]

Here I is some information I copied from a old magazine on how to apply wood grain

http://oldmopar.com/oldmopar/woodgrain.html

[claybill]

clearly the answer is....appplying the pattern BEFORE the metal is stamped.

it is the only way. i have looked at dashes and there is no indication of roller application...as it is obvious that getting around edges and in creases was done EASILY AND FAST! they laid on a wood grain, maybe by roller...then stamped it!

the old tin toys like the police cars and little toy motorcycles were silk screened on flat metal then stamped into shape..fact.

claybill

[james curl]

The draw depth on old toys and the thinner metal took less pressure to stamp than did the dashes. The draw is fairly deep and the metal must stretch and shrink to allow the shape to be acheived. It took a lot of pressure to form the lower curve on the dash corners and the metal must flow to shrink enough not to wrinkle as it's formed around the curve. I would think that if you applied the graining before forming that the grain would be affected by the stretching and shrinking of the metal.

[claybill]

that is true. but look at an original dash....if you think you can use a gel roller in one sweep to get around all those curves...?? stop kidding and look , i have tried it and it isnt possible to get a roller in those seams, let alone with one stroke. etc.....

anyway...we have been beating this poor old dead horse for a few years.

there must be someone who worked in the plant back in the 40's...where are they..?

bill

[Guest Jdee1939]

No dash was every done with one sweep of a roller that I know of.

Multiple passes and strategic blend areas were used.

It was different on every car dash.

Window moldings were done with

a roller and so were dashes.

Some cars did have the graining done on the dash before stamping but not many, using a

printed Nitrocellulose film, Not the modern day version of Di-noc.

The dash usually aged different than the

window garnishes and turned more of a green yellow over the years.

Some late 30s Buicks 37 38 had this. Hudsons also had this done.

If it was a film there is usually a very straight line of where the film ended

under the windshield molding or at the underside of the dash.

Check out Sorensen's Book "Famous Ford V-8s" There is a photo of a dash being done

in that book using the Roller.

The roller method was used as well as 3 to 4 different types of film

that was used before stamping.

As far as I know there is no film

being made today and if you could get some

all you would need is to have a new dash stamped out

with it.

Thanks Jdee

PS: we have yet to see a dash that could not be woodgrained with a roller.

[Guest Jdee1939]

I scanned a few papers here.

http://rbicycle.iserver.net/photos/47p/

One shows some stamping.

Jdee

[claybill]

great info jdee...really informative,

my 2 dashes have very straight edges on the ends indicating a decal type thing before stamping..also. side garnish moldings with grain folowing the contour would indicate a roller.

no one is saying that a beautiful dasah cant be done today with a roller, but indications were about another type of application back in the early 40's.

so now...both methoods were done at the factories..great. i can sleep now!!

claybill

[Guest Jdee1939]

Yeah woodgraining has an odd past for sure they did lots of different stuff.

Some was crazy, The Nash at the end of this video was a rough one to do.

I hate all the masking

Big file though.

http://rbicycle.iserver.net/photos/video/34ford/34fordhn.wmv

Thanks Jdee

Check out the 36 Hudson electronic three on the tree:D

Its a quick shot in the middle... cool old ride.

[Heavy Flat Head]

As with every other adventure there does not seem to be one way to accomplish the same goal. It all boils down to how much time a person is willing to spend on one part of the car. Boy those wood graining dashes are sure pretty. If I can keep my motivation up, I would like to do this to the Plymouth. Even if I can not find a better way than rolling, hand painting is not an option with me. As long as a person would not look real close at the dash, I wonder how it would come out. Then again if a person does look to close, that would be there problem. Another option I just thought of is silk screening has anyone tried that or is it even possible.