Dunkin Posted January 16, 2021 Report Posted January 16, 2021 Howdy, I had my truck re-wired a few months back and unfortunately we haven't been able to figure out why the fuel gauge does not work....it reads "empty" The gauges were all sent off for repair and calibration, but although the fuel gauge worked prior to sending it off and prior to re-wiring we cannot get it to function now. I am fairly confident that the wiring is properly installed. My question is this, I started to drop the fuel tank to check the sending unit, but will I have to remove the driveline in order to slide the tank out from the brackets that it is bolted to? I have attached a photo of her right after we installed railings on the bed. Thanks, Roman 1947 - WHA48 Dodge Quote
JBNeal Posted January 16, 2021 Report Posted January 16, 2021 additional information - fuel level sending unit upgrades Quote
PhilB3B Posted January 20, 2021 Report Posted January 20, 2021 Dunkin, I just replaced my sending unit on a 1952 B3B and took it out of the center plug under the seat. I have taken the tank out twice. I remove the fuel line and wiring at the front of the tank, remove the two front bolts then remove the rear frame to wedge bracket at the rear with the tank. Good luck! Quote
Dunkin Posted February 10, 2021 Author Report Posted February 10, 2021 Hi PhilB3B, Now that you mention it, I might have seen where there was a cover/lid under the seat of one of my projects and it might have been my Dodge, so I will need to look. I was removing the tank bolts and I noticed that the driveline sat awfully close to the tank and that it might take removing the driveline to get it out. I can't imagine that they designed it that poorly where you have to remove the driveline, but if true, I will just dump 5 gallons of fuel in the tank every time I take her for a drive. Thanks again, Roman Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 10, 2021 Report Posted February 10, 2021 you don't need to remove the driveline. Quote
JBNeal Posted February 10, 2021 Report Posted February 10, 2021 15 hours ago, Dunkin said: ...I can't imagine that they designed it that poorly where you have to remove the driveline... depending on your wheelbase, removing and installing the fuel tank is similar to changing fluorescent light bulbs in recessed housings: it takes some finagling cuz it's not a straight shot 1 Quote
Dunkin Posted February 12, 2021 Author Report Posted February 12, 2021 Howdy, I will give it another look with both eyes open this weekend. Seemed odd that you would have to remove the driveline to get the tank out. Thanks for the feedback. Warm regards! Quote
MBF Posted February 12, 2021 Report Posted February 12, 2021 Just a heads up guys. My fuel sender stopped working awhile ago so yesterday I went under the seat, pulled the plug and sending unit to test. MAN, there is something on that saturated cork float that stinks, and I mean STINKS. As soon as I walked into the house my wife noticed the smell, and when I went back out to the garage that now smells too. I didn’t spill anything just testing the sweep of the arm w an ohm meter. I’m thinking of disassembling the sender after disposing of the float to see what happened. I can hear the arm rubbing on the windings, but no continuity on the meter. What are you guys using for sending units? Mine has the single wire 2.5” plate w the 11 “ arm. If I can’t fix this one I’m going to be looking for another. Quote
Dunkin Posted February 14, 2021 Author Report Posted February 14, 2021 I am not certain about my sending unit yet, but will you lookie here....found the cap under my seat. I thought I had seen that cap several times along my journey working on my truck, but completely forgot about it? Thanks PhilB3B. Quote
Dunkin Posted February 16, 2021 Author Report Posted February 16, 2021 Here's the unit I pulled out today from my truck. I am not getting a reading and thus I will be ordering a new one. Quote
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