Brent B3B Posted January 20, 2019 Report Posted January 20, 2019 Picked up this 1.5 ton yesterday near the Seattle area for $1.00 (one USA dollar) I named him “Buck” LOL “Swung” by and played “what the heck?” with Dodgeb4ya (what a blast!) This truck is SUCH a rust bucket!.....,. “challenge accepted”. I don’t know who I feel sorry for more, my neighbors or Julie…. 4
wallytoo Posted January 20, 2019 Report Posted January 20, 2019 i like it. not so rusty to us easterners, either, at least from that picture. 1 1
Brent B3B Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Posted January 20, 2019 2 minutes ago, wallytoo said: i like it. not so rusty to us easterners, either, at least from that picture. thanks Wally, here is a closer look 5
Brent B3B Posted August 6, 2019 Author Report Posted August 6, 2019 On my B4GA I am choosing to try and “revive” this truck with as little expense as I can, keeping it stock, without compromising safety. (Because it makes me smile.) I pulled the head, because there was no compression (head gasket). The valve seats are pretty pitted….. I am lapping the valves and cleaning up the seats and some parts….. My plan is to use as much as I can from the truck, the way I bought it. My expense so far is: the truck itself $1. J Nickle welding rod for exhaust manifold $8. (Local welding supply store) New intake to exhaust manifold bolts, nuts, washers and exhaust pipe bolts $8. (Local hardware store) New head and manifold gasket kit $52. ($38 at rock auto $14. shipping) 1
Brent B3B Posted February 3, 2020 Author Report Posted February 3, 2020 New NAPA points and condenser $22. Got it started tonight ? Turns out the previous owner had the wrong points, condenser and it was 180deg out of time..... Need to “fine tune it” next and then move on to the brakes stay tuned...... 3
Brent B3B Posted February 10, 2020 Author Report Posted February 10, 2020 Tinkered with Buck this weekend, fine tuned the motor. I removed the 2speed switch and cleaned it up -no money spent Now, I’m moving on to the brakes.... removed the front cylinders ? the rear are a little more work, I broke a 3/4” breaker bar, trying to get the rear tire off ? 2
Brent B3B Posted February 23, 2020 Author Report Posted February 23, 2020 Finally got all the cylinders off the truck, looks like they haven’t been used in a long time ? Before I send them up to Hagen’s to be rebuilt, I am going to check out the booster. I know they don’t rebuild the diaphragm part, but I think they would take on the cylinder if needed. cost wise, this will be the most expensive part of the truck. I figure around $500. For rebuilt cylinders, a master cylinder kit, brake switch, new hoses and lines. Luckily the drums look like they will clean up well and the pads look great! up to this point was just labor. I did make another tool out of scrap to remove the rear hub bearings.... 1
Brent B3B Posted March 5, 2020 Author Report Posted March 5, 2020 Pulled the booster off the truck last weekend. Gingerly took it apart, a few bolts and the bleeder screw didn’t make it... If it turns out the booster doesn’t work out after I clean it up, I e-mailed karps in CA who says they can rebuild it for $400. If that happens, at least I loosen everything up for them ?
Brent B3B Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Posted May 11, 2020 Ok, cleaned up the booster, blasted and zinc plated (home done) some parts. Threw on some leftover paint cost= free Installed a “minor” rebuild kit cost= $50. eBay Most expensive area so far, Sent the wheel cylinders up to be re sleeved cost= $400. Includes; re sleeving, brake switch, bleeder screw for the booster, new “crush washers”, the 3 rubber hoses and shipping 1-1/2” Master cylinder Rebuild kit Cost= $22. Rock auto Parts look SO pretty, too bad it won’t last ? Cleaned up some more of the two speed parts. The back of the speedometer switch had a rusted pivot and a disintegrated spring. I was able to pop the rivet, work the pivot free and replace the spring with one I had lying around. I took apart the shift cable and cleaned it up, took some kinks out, re lubed it.... little smoother cost for both= free (so far just the labor) 1
Haydenh Posted July 28, 2020 Report Posted July 28, 2020 On 5/11/2020 at 1:31 PM, Brent B3B said: Ok, cleaned up the booster, blasted and zinc plated (home done) some parts. Threw on some leftover paint cost= free Installed a “minor” rebuild kit cost= $50. eBay Most expensive area so far, Sent the wheel cylinders up to be re sleeved cost= $400. Includes; re sleeving, brake switch, bleeder screw for the booster, new “crush washers”, the 3 rubber hoses and shipping 1-1/2” Master cylinder Rebuild kit Cost= $22. Rock auto Parts look SO pretty, too bad it won’t last ? Cleaned up some more of the two speed parts. The back of the speedometer switch had a rusted pivot and a disintegrated spring. I was able to pop the rivet, work the pivot free and replace the spring with one I had lying around. I took apart the shift cable and cleaned it up, took some kinks out, re lubed it.... little smoother cost for both= free (so far just the labor) All of that pretty paint is making me want to tear into my brakes now and get them working right again! Gotta rebuild the carb first though! 1
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