Overview

I might have to watch for a 2-speed. I have the single speed and it is quite possibly the 7.1:1 ratio which topped me out around 50mpg. I’d love to be able to cruise at 55mlg without making the engine scream but then, maybe it was screaming because it needed a rebuild! Your photos and use are definitely inspiring me to use it like it was intended!

i have the eaton 1350 2-speed; makes the truck quite useable on the secondary highways and back roads, especially when hauling a load. the remote brake cylinder/midland vacuum booster is a big plus, too. my truck stops very well with a load.

If I can find the parts for the 265 conversion I will go that route when i rebuild the 251 but if not, I'm sure I can follow some of the old school hop-up tricks and have a good, reliable machine or go the "new school" route that I described with a turbo, I'm sure my pocket book will get the best of me and I'll just try to keep it simple and cheap. I didn't even think about things sticking to the wood and not sliding with the bed up. I think that regardless, I will have to pull the sheet metal off to replace the boards underneath (most are dry-rotted) but maybe instead of repurposing the sheeting for my other projects, I will just set it aside and have it put back on by my local spring/trailer shop that specializes in flatbeds. I've considered just doing raised steel strips that just bolts between or through the new boards at a specific interval to allow the wood to show through like the lighter duty bed bodied trucks have but also still assist in getting stuff to slide off of the bed. I don't know if it is better to have easier access to be able to replace boards and have it look nice for the occasional parade or if it is better to just take it to the welder and have him just make it all a metal deck instead. It is good to know at least that you are working your truck consistently! Do you have the 2-speed rear end on yours or just the single speed?

the flatheads are tough engines. the 251 is a nice size for these medium duty trucks, although i'm sure a 265 would be sweet. plenty of parts available to get your engine running reliably, other than the crankshaft. i still use mine year round in the northeast after 18 years of owning it, and put an average of 500 miles per year on it. i've been considering putting a steel sheet over the wooden bed to help with dumping the loads; sometimes a lot of stuff sticks to the bed and won't unload with the dump body fully raised (i have a marion hoist).

Step 1 before I can take the dog house off is to build a small storage shed or buy a cheap harbor freight "canvas Carport" to store parts in to protect them from the elements. So in the meantime, I'm going to start with taking the steel sheet metal off of the flatbed that were added at some point to keep the grain in but are very warped and not very secure. I need to replace the boards underneath anyways as they have started to rot. It'll just be more original without the slick, steel decking and with wood planks again showing. And I need to get at the Hydraulics that the PTO runs so I can take them in to be rebuilt as well. Will follow up with a post and photos as I work through that! (hopefully within a week!)

Hello All, In an effort to not only motivate myself to tackle the job and to let @Brent B3B know I am actually working on the truck again, I am going to start a "restoration" thread for my 1948 B-1-J. By the few threads I've had in starting down this path, I have made a dismal amount of progress on the truck. I finally feel that I either need to dig into the truck and start or I need to sell it and leave the forum (but I'd prefer to get the old truck driving again). That being said, Truck specs in case anyone searches for them in the future: 1948 B-1-J (618th off the line) 152" Wheelbase 1962-ish WH300 251ci L6 Clark 2XXV 5-speed direct-drive transmission 8.25-20 tires Anthony Hydraulic stakeside dump bed The 251 motor is tired and needs a rebuild if it is good shape and nothing cracked or warped (it did overheat quite a bit on me when I was moving it one day). My "Plan A" is to rebuild the motor into a 265 if I can find a good 265 crank and connecting rods, maybe help the motor breathe a bit more with a low pressure turbo and a Holley Sniper EFI for the mountains I live in (6000' to 11000') but at a minimum I would do a dual carb to keep things simple. While the motor is out, I will take the Clark transmission out to see if it needs a rebuild, but I am worried about parts availability there which would make the motor rebuild a moot point if I have to get a different transmission. I wouldn't even know where to take the Clark to get it looked over either as I don't know if the local transmission shops or truck shops have seen one in decades. If either the Motor or the Transmission is done for and I am unable to find replacements that aren't also worn out or overpriced (I'm seeing worn out 230s going for around 1k now around here which is bananas), I will pursue my "Plan B" which would be swapping to a more modern drivetrain setup. If I end up going this route, I'd like to avoid having to swap to a different chassis since the 2-ton frame being fairly straight should mean I can add whatever I want fairly easily. But if I end up going that route, I will try to swap to some more modern axles as well (potentially out of an F550). Ideally, I will keep the truck mostly original which in the long run will save me money and get me on the road faster than having to do major modifications for the drivetrain but that is the rough two options that I have made up in my head for now. I am open to other suggestions though! Everything else will just be the major cosmetics cleanup, reupholstery of interior, new wiring and lenses, new rubber all around, and a couple of panes of side window glass. My plan is to keep the paint patina'd and follow @pflaming's guide here: https://p15-d24.com/topic/52365-starting-my-b2c-restoration/page/2/#comment-564804 The truck is in really good shape all things considered and doesn't need all that much at the moment, just little fixes here and there! I'd venture to say it is in better shape than my current pickup in terms of things needed to get it in tip top shape! The photo I attached is as it sits now. I will try to take photos as I work on things so I can keep track and share with you along the way! Thank you!

Hello Brent! Sorry it has taken me so long to reply to you! Lots of life has pulled me away from the forum and the project. I'd like to see more about your "HH(A)" project and how that goes for you! I'm finally in a place where I can start tearing into my truck so first thing I'll be doing is just getting the drivetrain sorted and most likely rebuilding the 251, trans, etc. It'll be a slow project but I'm hoping I can be more active on the forum to document my progress along the way and all the issues I'm sure to uncover with it being an old grain truck from Idaho.

I put this in the off site referrals section, but in case anyone missed it…… https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/768928010829151/ it’s local to me. But I’m not selling it. But I thought it was pretty cool and not something you see often.

You don't think that is an intentional bend do you? On that last picture you show it looks like a sharper change to the angle. Almost like it was made that way? On the first picture and on my truck it looks much more like a gradual bend was put in it from sitting on the bump stops. I guess they are there for a reason, but man, that's a lot of spring to bend.

You made me look ? both my GA’s and the HH have a bend in that area as well, the HH seems to be at the taper

I thought the bigger truck guys might find this interesting- look at the attached picture. This truck had a dump body in it. I finally got the old dump hoist frame off that i will replace because I a putting a flatbed dump on it. Apparently this thing was routinely loaded so heavy that the bump stops it the rear end and slightly bent the bottom web of the frame. Both sides are identical like this. The spring stack on this are so stiff in the back I'm pretty surprised they could flex that much. I inspected the whole frame pretty carefully. No cracks or bends anywhere else, unless there is something under the cab which is doubtful. So apparently no harm done and I'll bend them back, but I guess this truck was worked hard in its life.

Haydenh, how is the parts search going? thought of you recently as I procured a OEM shift valve bracket fr my HH ?(trying to make him a “HHA”) An OEM shift cable is supposed to arrive tomorrow (I’ll have to make the shifter brackets)

yes, it has the eaton 1350 2-speed vacuum shift. i like it a lot. makes the truck more driveable. i should mention that the carb is the one from the 237; not sure why the starts aren’t as “instant”.

That’s interesting that the 251 doesn’t start as well. Maybe it’s something to do with the mechanical pump allowing gas to flow out of the carb? So does your truck have a 2 speed rear end?

mine has been running great since getting it back on the road a year ago. missed it for those 3 years after the rod end went through the side of the block. but, it has been worth the wait. i've put almost exactly 900 miles since then according to the odometer (more actual miles, because the odometer drops out regularly in 4 speed hi-range), so likely 1100 to 1200 miles in reality. the replacement engine (251) runs nicely, and clearly has more power than the 237. it does not start quite as nicely as the 237 did after sitting overnight, but once it has been started, it will restart quickly the rest of the day.

Slow progress but I feel like I'll be able to focus a bit more time and effort on getting things back to road worthy condition on the weekends again. I tried using some MMO and it did seem like it made a little difference, but I'm not sure it made a big enough difference, at least the carb has been rebuilt I guess. So I'll check the distributor and wires and see if they're in ok shape. If its still struggling, smoking out of every filler and draft tube on it, and just not running right I'll have to tear into the engine. Might not be a bad Idea just to get everything refreshed and maybe remove the old power wagon governor and long bolts for the carb. I luckily have a family friend who just retired that has extensive experience with the older vehicles that he used to wrench on with his dad (dad was a mechanic in the 30s and 40s) and I might be able to pick his brain about how to go about a rebuild. I definitely need to get the truck back out on the road within the next year or two!

Been also looking for an update on your truck Haydenh! ? we need to get him back on the road....

Wallytoo, I know this is about a year late but welcome to the big boy club! You've got a great looking truck and more importantly, its being used! Mine unfortunately is still sitting waiting to be restored a bit but seeing yours gives me a little motivation to get wrenching on mine! Hope all is well!

a year late, but nice trucks, hayden and goddom! this is my ‘48 b-1-fa-152 that i recently got back on the road after almost three years with a blown motor...

All of that pretty paint is making me want to tear into my brakes now and get them working right again! Gotta rebuild the carb first though!

Ok, cleaned up the booster, blasted and zinc plated (home done) some parts. Threw on some leftover paint cost= free Installed a “minor” rebuild kit cost= $50. eBay Most expensive area so far, Sent the wheel cylinders up to be re sleeved cost= $400. Includes; re sleeving, brake switch, bleeder screw for the booster, new “crush washers”, the 3 rubber hoses and shipping 1-1/2” Master cylinder Rebuild kit Cost= $22. Rock auto Parts look SO pretty, too bad it won’t last ? Cleaned up some more of the two speed parts. The back of the speedometer switch had a rusted pivot and a disintegrated spring. I was able to pop the rivet, work the pivot free and replace the spring with one I had lying around. I took apart the shift cable and cleaned it up, took some kinks out, re lubed it.... little smoother cost for both= free (so far just the labor)

Pulled the booster off the truck last weekend. Gingerly took it apart, a few bolts and the bleeder screw didn’t make it... If it turns out the booster doesn’t work out after I clean it up, I e-mailed karps in CA who says they can rebuild it for $400. If that happens, at least I loosen everything up for them ?

Finally got all the cylinders off the truck, looks like they haven’t been used in a long time ? Before I send them up to Hagen’s to be rebuilt, I am going to check out the booster. I know they don’t rebuild the diaphragm part, but I think they would take on the cylinder if needed. cost wise, this will be the most expensive part of the truck. I figure around $500. For rebuilt cylinders, a master cylinder kit, brake switch, new hoses and lines. Luckily the drums look like they will clean up well and the pads look great! up to this point was just labor. I did make another tool out of scrap to remove the rear hub bearings....

Tinkered with Buck this weekend, fine tuned the motor. I removed the 2speed switch and cleaned it up -no money spent Now, I’m moving on to the brakes.... removed the front cylinders ? the rear are a little more work, I broke a 3/4” breaker bar, trying to get the rear tire off ?

Awesome! Its at least alive again!