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A club for 1-1/2 ton and larger, medium and Heavy duty trucks, C.O.E and busses!

  1. What's new in this club
  2. Ok, cleaned up the booster, blasted and zinc plated (home done) some parts. Threw on some leftover paint cost= free Installed a “minor” rebuild kit cost= $50. eBay Most expensive area so far, Sent the wheel cylinders up to be re sleeved cost= $400. Includes; re sleeving, brake switch, bleeder screw for the booster, new “crush washers”, the 3 rubber hoses and shipping 1-1/2” Master cylinder Rebuild kit Cost= $22. Rock auto Parts look SO pretty, too bad it won’t last 😊 Cleaned up some more of the two speed parts. The back of the speedometer switch had a rusted pivot and a disintegrated spring. I was able to pop the rivet, work the pivot free and replace the spring with one I had lying around. I took apart the shift cable and cleaned it up, took some kinks out, re lubed it.... little smoother cost for both= free (so far just the labor)
  3. Pulled the booster off the truck last weekend. Gingerly took it apart, a few bolts and the bleeder screw didn’t make it... If it turns out the booster doesn’t work out after I clean it up, I e-mailed karps in CA who says they can rebuild it for $400. If that happens, at least I loosen everything up for them 😊
  4. Finally got all the cylinders off the truck, looks like they haven’t been used in a long time 😊 Before I send them up to Hagen’s to be rebuilt, I am going to check out the booster. I know they don’t rebuild the diaphragm part, but I think they would take on the cylinder if needed. cost wise, this will be the most expensive part of the truck. I figure around $500. For rebuilt cylinders, a master cylinder kit, brake switch, new hoses and lines. Luckily the drums look like they will clean up well and the pads look great! up to this point was just labor. I did make another tool out of scrap to remove the rear hub bearings....
  5. Tinkered with Buck this weekend, fine tuned the motor. I removed the 2speed switch and cleaned it up -no money spent Now, I’m moving on to the brakes.... removed the front cylinders 😊 the rear are a little more work, I broke a 3/4” breaker bar, trying to get the rear tire off 😩
  6. New NAPA points and condenser $22. Got it started tonight 😁 Turns out the previous owner had the wrong points, condenser and it was 180deg out of time..... Need to “fine tune it” next and then move on to the brakes stay tuned......
  7. Thank you for the links, I’ll get some stuff ordered to rebuild the carb. Who knows if all the parts for it are on there, it was an old farm truck after all haha. I’ll reach out to the Vintage powerwagon folks and see what info and advice they can give me on the engine and the axle. I’d really like to keep the old axles just for the fun factor of the directional lug nuts and such. But the idea of possibly going 4x4 intrigues me as well (like the old coleman 4wheel systems) the brake booster is actually a ford brake booster but I don’t know from what! When I drove it an hour or so from where I bought it to where I stored it I think I only had one brake working and only at 25% which is slightly terrifying in a heavy truck. I’ll add some photos of the booster below. i don’t think I’m quite ready to give up on it being mostly original type equipment either which is probably why I voiced my question in the first place to get another opinion or two. I’m am still considering reworking the flattie to get some more power out of it though (maybe a turbo with small pressure?) so I can not get run over by the crazy/ distracted drivers around here. I do like that suggestion of trying to just get this one going well meeting most of my needs to daily drive and then keeping an eye out for something else to convert to diesel and 4wheel drive? if you ever do find a JA axle laying around I’ll probably want to pick it up just for the gearing options it provides!
  8. I know it can be frustrating, I have used https://www.carburetor-parts.com/ for carb kits have you called the boys at https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/ for power wagon engine parts? shoot they might even have advice on that axle...... what kind of brake booster do you have? can you tell I'm not ready to let you give up yet? easy for me to say but if it were me, I think I'd get this truck going have fun with it and look for one already converted let someone else go through the hassle... but I am lazy that way I thought about your truck a couple months ago.... I went up to WA to look at a B4JA (we couldn't land on a price I was willing to pay, LOL)
  9. Brent B3B, I’ve just had trouble getting anything to do with rebuilding the carb from the local box stores but I can find spark plugs at least! I haven’t tried looking for anything else yet because it was a major pain just getting the right plugs! I need to do a full tear down and rebuild the engine because it’s got some blowby I believe and it’s a tired old farm truck. The engine is a swap from a 64 power wagon but I don’t know when that was done or what the mileage was. I haven’t seen too many pilothouse trucks here in Utah and even fewer of the big guys. My main concern with the parts is that I’ll get into rebuilding it and find I can’t get the right parts or knowing my luck I’d break something irreplaceable! my long term goal for the truck if possible would be to be able to get it to cruise comfortably at 55-60 (not way up in the rpm range) and be able to stop all that weight from that speed. It’s not a 2 speed rear axle so I think the ration is somewhere around 7-7.5:1. I don’t know if I can get a lower ratio ring and pinion for that axle. Do you think I’d be asking too much from the flattie and the more stock setup vs swapping things out for modern gearing and brakes? Thank you for the link to the TODD build! I stayed up way too late catching up on everything haha i really love the extended cab setup from the thumbnail of that old huge truck! Maybe I’ll do something like that someday.
  10. Oh no, Sorry to hear your having problems haydenh. I had luck having https://hagensautoparts.com Rebuild my brake cylinders ( stainless steel sleeved) and I had my local “fleet pride” https://branches.fleetpride.com re line the brake pads. what flathead parts you having trouble finding? I am a fan of the flathead and original.... but then again I don’t drive on the freeway. have you seen ggdad1951 build yet? A lot of work but he is doing a great job.
  11. Hello All, I'm still new to the Pilothouse world and have yet to do much restoration on my B-1-J. Parts availability is the biggest issue I've come up against, even just getting little things for the flathead motor seems difficult nowadays and in thinking about what I want to do with the truck I find myself wondering how easy/difficult it is to find things like brake shoes, drums, and other stopping components for the running gear especially out here in the west? I've considered doing a conversion/ swap with some newer axles (from F450 or F550 types) to put some 22.5" rims on for modern tires and possibly putting in a diesel engine to turn the bigger wheels. Thoughts? Positives or negatives to the swaps? link to video here
  12. I would guesstimate around 9k for my HH-152 with the 12’ bed it has. (All steel) This was the load for CA that didn’t happen.... 14k trailer, 20’ long.... not enough tongue weight for sure.... should have flipped it backwards but, It didn’t work out. i looked at a B4JA -172 last weekend and I would have guessed it to also be around the 9k mark. (It had less of a bed, bigger ( and longer) frame, little bigger drums etc.) At the first of the year, i towed my B4GA from Seattle to Portland....I would have guess it without a bed out a bed to be in the 7k range
  13. Yeah, i know that bed on mine is probably just as heavy if not a bit heavier than my cab and engine (Well almost haha). I should have backed the truck on the trailer to balance it a bit better but it worked fine driving on for the 900 mile trip home. If you had to guesstimate your HH weight what do you think it'd be? I'm just trying to ballpark mine. I need to try the plate metal thing since my truck is just on the dirt as well! Thats really a great idea I can't believe I haven't thought of that before!
  14. Big congrats Haydenh! The bed is gonna make a difference on weight for sure. I haven’t weighed anything yet but have plenty of guesstimates. 😊 When I worked on my “HH” brakes i used a 12ton bottle jack (to lift) AND a 3ton floor jack (to stabilize) one corner at a time. I put both jacks on slab of 1/2 plate metal (because I was on dirt instead of concrete) last year I tried to load up the HH and tow it to CA for the BBQ but, I couldn’t balance the load with the bed it has...
  15. Now if only they still sold these! I'd save up for one for my B-1-J!
  16. Hello folks, I don't have access to a scale or anything of the sort at the moment as my truck is not drivable on the road yet until I can get the brakes worked on to get an official weight. I was wondering if any of you with B-1-J or similar trucks can "weigh in" on the matter and provide weights for your trucks? I need to buy a jack and some jack stands to work on the wheels and axles but I don't want to undersize anything for safety. I searched the regular forum and couldn't find anything for the heavy trucks, just the 1 ton and lighter rated trucks. Thank you in advance. P.S. This might be a nice spot anyways to post weights for various models of the bigger trucks in case others need to trailer their big trucks home and whatnot, just a thought.
  17. I still need to write in to SCA to request the build card for my truck as I think it would have a pretty interesting history being a 1948. All of the information I got from the previous owner about its history was that it was his grandpa's grain truck in Rexburg, Idaho. On the side of the passenger and driver's side door are: "L.V. Sorensen Rexburg, Idaho". I wasn't able to turn up much through internet search of the name or location so it might remain a mystery. It did have sides for grain hauling but they were fairly rotten so I pulled them off and will be replacing something with a little more visibility. The dump bed works great though! I did discover from the serial # that it was the 618th B-1-J to roll off the line which I thought was pretty neat. It does however have a 251 flathead from a 1962 WM300 Powerwagon as its engine so I don't know if the original froze up in the Idaho cold and cracked or if the old worn out engine just got replaced. The carburetor is a little wonky and I'll have to ask some folks to help me figure out what's missing from it and where to get a rebuild kit if I can't find anything from a forum search. Its got a 5 speed with the strange shift pattern but I don't believe its any sort of overdrive, top speed is around 50mph (with iPhone gps) downhill. Thats all about the history I know on it but I'll be lurking around and asking questions as I fix up the truck that has been fitfully named "Clifford" because its a big red dog!
  18. On my B4GA I am choosing to try and “revive” this truck with as little expense as I can, keeping it stock, without compromising safety. (Because it makes me smile.) I pulled the head, because there was no compression (head gasket). The valve seats are pretty pitted….. I am lapping the valves and cleaning up the seats and some parts….. My plan is to use as much as I can from the truck, the way I bought it. My expense so far is: the truck itself $1. J Nickle welding rod for exhaust manifold $8. (Local welding supply store) New intake to exhaust manifold bolts, nuts, washers and exhaust pipe bolts $8. (Local hardware store) New head and manifold gasket kit $52. ($38 at rock auto $14. shipping)
  19. i like it. not so rusty to us easterners, either, at least from that picture.
  20. Picked up this 1.5 ton yesterday near the Seattle area for $1.00 (one USA dollar) I named him “Buck” LOL “Swung” by and played “what the heck?” with Dodgeb4ya (what a blast!) This truck is SUCH a rust bucket!.....,. “challenge accepted”. I don’t know who I feel sorry for more, my neighbors or Julie….
  21. Here are pics. There are no stops for either. It looks like for the engage/disengage there is a natural stop so no stop mounted on the floor boards and it didn't hit the floor. For actuating the dump, there are no stops and in one direction it will hit the floor but not in the other direction. I also included a picture of my dash so you can see where my speed-O is :-)
  22. I will check. The PTO on/off lever doesn't touch the floor it seems to have its own stops. The other lever seems to have more travel than it needs. I think it may hit the floor. I will check. The Speed-o is just above the steering wheel.
  23. Thanks, does the levers just hit the sheet metal floor or is there some sort of a "stop" has your speedometer been replaced by a speaker?

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