Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have a 93 ranger two wheel drive was wondering how hard it is to mate up the drive shaft to the rear end from my b2b

Edited by Jj1981
Posted

I did a ranger (7.5?) axle in my 73 swinger. It had a flat flange on the pinion and needed a combination driveshaft welded up. The rest of the swap was easy I just had to shave the axle, mock it up for pinion angle, tack the leaf perches, measure for  driveshaft length, take it apart, final weld the perches, and put it all back together.

 

If I remember correctly our trucks are like the swinger in that the lower shock bolt is also the leaf spring U-bolt plate? So other than plumbing new brakes with 3/16” line there was nothing else that needed to be attached or welded to the rear. 

 

Good luck!

Posted

Oh and watch out the ranger axles’ pinions are a little more offset to the passenger side I considered running two short side axles and trimming one tube down but never got around to it

Posted

I had an 8.8 offered after this post so I think the ranger left axle and I’ll pick up another one may work better but thanks for the info. Does the offset make that big of a difference in driveability

Posted

My swinger drives fine until you hit the highway where it has a kind of thrumming vibration over 60. It’s been in paint shop purgatory for 6 years which is like free storage at this point and before that it was super fun around town with 3.73 limited slip and a slapshifter- it chirps second and third with a warm 318. So I never addressed the problem. Could be the pinion angle would solve it with some leaf spring wedge shims or maybe drastic measures are needed

Posted

This truck is just a putt around the backroads to store or whatever I doubt I’ll be seeing 60 unless the 460 swap happens then total frame swap. Merry Christmas 

Posted

Should be fun and if you are just making a country road toy you can probably get away with welding the driveshaft up yourself too for a total cost of $20 for new perches

Posted

Using the stock transmission, probably easier to use the flathead driveshaft since finding a flange style yoke to fit it may be more difficult than replacement for the ranger rear.   DIYing it, you may want to use a combo of both. If so, remember those joints need top be phased.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use