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Posted

I would assume that if you use Mustang II parts, that finding Ford brake parts would be a piece of cake....    Why would a scarebird kit be sourced if you use the cheapest suspension out there?  Just curious....  Most of our vehicles are IFS, not quite understanding why you would use Ford IFS over the Mopar...

 

 Why is your username Unknown?   Perhaps you can try the Hamb, a lot of custom builders that mismatch parts on  cars have good info on this subject.

 

I hope this will help in some way....

  • Like 1
Posted

Unknown is my name because I was being lazy. Yes I am using fatman uprights for the stock suspension and am having a large gap between rotors and bracket. I will try and load pictures later. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Gotcha...  OK, sorry for the misunderstanding.  I really miss my buddy from Plydo.  He made some great brake conversion parts.

Edited by classiccarjack
Spelling error
Posted
7 hours ago, unknown said:

Has anyone used a Scarebird brake kit with Fatman uprights. I have some questions with mine. 

I have used Scarebird.com for my 1951 Chrysler Windsor. I needed the DES kit. I recommend

Posted
3 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

I have the PLYDO conversion on my P-15.

I talked to him on the phone 1 day before he died at the race track...  A top notch man, well missed from us vintage Mopar builders.

Posted

 The gap between the rotor and the scarebird bracket seems to large. also does the Ply Do brake kit mouth on the kingpin side of the spindle. 

15213968340662091256453.jpg

Posted (edited)

Does Scarbird use an adapter slid on the spindle?

Does the spindle nut go all the way on with the rotor and bearings installed?

 

is that a slip on rotor?

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
Posted
4 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Does Scarbird use an adapter slid on the spindle?

Does the spindle nut go all the way on with the rotor and bearings installed?

 

is that a slip on rotor?

PLYDO_instructions.jpg

 

25.jpg

 

5.jpg

 

11zz.jpg

Posted (edited)

That’s what I was thinking. On the other hand, I had to take about .050 off my castle nuts to get the cotter pins in with my Rusty Hope kit. My races were installed when I bought my rotors and I double checked them so I know they were driven home so it does happen.

My rotors were as close as yours. 

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
Posted
49 minutes ago, Don Coatney said:

Makes me wonder if who ever was having problems with the nut not going on far enough did not have the bearing races driven all the way home???

In more ways than one.....lol.

Posted

Castle nut has not been torqued. the bracket on the Ply Do kit looks like it install a on the kingpin side of the spindle. the scarebird installs on the other. All the pictures I have seen show the disc brake between the steering arm and the spindle. The scarebird installs just up against the spindle. The fatman instructions say to trim the control arms and counteksink then. This may not be necessary with the scarebird kit. 

1521406730592948665595.jpg

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