heat riser

[Alexander]

Hello guys,

Any tips on how to free up a stuck heat riser. I need to avoid taking off the manifolds. I am not sure if its stuck in open or closed. the counter weight slips a little from attempting to move it.

Thanks,

Alex

[eric wissing]

Alex, you could remove the counter weight, try a little PB blaster or even a bit of heat to the exposed shaft but I am guessing that you will have to eventually take off the manifolds to get to it. Eric

[JIPJOBXX]

I would use a little bb blaster and a vice grip. The vlv will be in the open position when you turn the shaft in a clock wise position. I know I just took mine apart and now I have a vice grip holding it open. (mickey mouse but works)

[Alexander]

Excellent information!!

I did not know about the slot in the shaft referencing the position of the valve.

Ill try some blaster spray.

Thank you

Alex

[Alexander]

Update:

I tried Blaster spray and a monkey wrench on the shaft, but it just wont budge. In the process of trying I over torqued the shaft and now I doubt I can get the counter weight back on. Looks like I will have to remove the intake/exhaust manifold.

Any one have luck re-using the gaskets on the manifolds? perhaps with some hight temp RTV silicon will be needed, or can it be re-used with out any additional dressing.

who would be a good source for a new heat riser shaft and flap valve? springs seem to be OK.

Thank you.

Alex

[JIPJOBXX]

Gasket set only cost around 10 dollars and you when you do get your manifold oft I would do a real good soaking of BB Blaster on the bolts that hold the intake and exhaust manifold together. The header gasket set will have the gasket in it that you will haft to replace on the hot box area. You might just forget about taking oft that manifold if the vlv is in the open position. Check really close to see if that splite on the vlv stem is in the open position. I will take a look at mine and in fact I will take a picture for you and then you can really see if it in the open position. I myself would not fool around with that heat riser if it is in the open position because of the fasteners that hold the the manifolds together are really small and you might just wind up having to drill and tap those old bolts out. Somebody on here said the only time that heat riser in needed is when it is really cold (like 32 degrees).

[oldmopar]

On a number of vehicles I have tried all types of sprays oils and what have you and have never been able to free a really frozen heat rise. I now just leave them frozen and have not noticed any difference maybe I have just been lucky.

Antique auto parts cellar use to carry the kits see the link

http://www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/cellar.htm

[Merle Coggins]

When I got my truck the manifolds were already removed and seperated. I soaked the heat riser shaft for a long time and it still wouldn't come loose. I finally put a little heat to the manifold where the shaft goes through. It freed right up. Moves freely now.

Merle

[JIPJOBXX]

Forget the picture but that split is at the ten oclock position and of course that runs strait though to the four oclock position when the valve is in the open position. You should be able to check this out by just looking carefully down at the stem. Jon:cool:

[Alexander]

Thanks Jipbox-

It would be great if i can avoid taking off the manifolds. please see the following picture. the shaft is point to about 2 o'clock. what do you guys think? in this position is heat going to the carb or not?

[Alexander]

forgot to attach. here is the pic....

[Guest rockabillybassman]

I blocked off my broken heat riser with a metal plate, works fine. Starts no problem, but then we dont get below about 40deg in winter.

[Alexander]

thanks guys based on the manual, looks like my heat riser is stuck in the wrong position. I guess i have to take off the manifold and hope for the best.

Thanks

Alex