Kool48 Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 (edited) Well I've had some issues lately with my 218 in my 48 Plymouth. I rebuilt carb a month ago or so. But something just isn't right with my timing. I have a timing light. That got me no where. So I set timing with vacuum gauge about a week or so ago. Set fuel idle mixture with vacuum gauge as well. Had about 16/17 inches of vacuum. But with a timing light. I was running about 10 degrees or more BTDC TDC was at the 11 o'clock position looking at engine from front. But like I said I timed it with vacuum gauge. Car was running great so I thought. Not even 4 days later my new condenser went bad so I think. Had to have car towed home. I put another condenser in it and it started right up. But something went wrong again. Engine wanted to surge in 3rd gear. So back to the timing I went. Had to turn it counters clockwise as much as possible even getting the max outta the adjustment plate on bottom of distributor. So I've left it alone. Last night I pulled all the plugs. And opened carb up , checked compression. All is fairly good 1 to 6. 95 , 110, 115,115 118,120. So then I bring timing mark to TDC at pointer. The rotor button sets at 7 o'clock. So I did the setting by the method mentioned in tech tip. Using the neon outlet tester. So yes I can get the tester to flash while adjusting the distributor at TDC. So my question. I should be able to lock distributor down at this,point and it should be set and done correct ? Because I haven't started engine since setting timing as,explained. But I can almost guarantee it won't run right and vacuum will be way low. If I'm correct what else could be making the vacuum so low when timing is set to where it is now ? Could it be the carb. Vacuum leak ? Edited April 27, 2017 by Kool48 Spelling Quote
Reg Evans Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 Have you checked your vacuum advance ? Quote
Kool48 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Posted April 26, 2017 1 hour ago, Reg Evans said: Have you checked your vacuum advance ? Vacuum advance is disconnected. Also the wipers are disconnected. The manifold and carb are both plugged at this time. Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 I notice that there are now several threads on this same (engine running poorly) problem. Would be very helpful if all of the discussions on this problem were all in the same thread so we could see what advice has been given and what advice was followed with the results all in the same place. Suggest you ask a moderator to combine all of these threads. If you do that the answers you get would be much better. 1 Quote
Kool48 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Posted April 26, 2017 1 hour ago, Don Coatney said: I notice that there are now several threads on this same (engine running poorly) problem. Would be very helpful if all of the discussions on this problem were all in the same thread so we could see what advice has been given and what advice was followed with the results all in the same place. Suggest you ask a moderator to combine all of these threads. If you do that the answers you get would be much better. Will do Quote
Kool48 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Posted April 26, 2017 Not sure how to go about combining these post. I did send a msg to the support team. Hopefully they'll get it together for me. Quote
ptwothree Posted April 27, 2017 Report Posted April 27, 2017 I set my timing on a newly rebuilt motor using a vom with an audible signal for continuity. Look it up if ya don't know how. My engine fired up on the second rotation with gas in the bowl. I have more problems figuring out how people can't start their engines when timing is such a big deal. Simple stuff. Look in the manual...It explains it. Even folks from the 1900's managed to start their engines. Condensers....bad 40 yrs ago....worse now. Go Pertronix.....welcome the new day and say goodbye to the old.....and drive your car the way ma mopar would have done had they the technology. Took another 20+ years but they owned it!! 1 Quote
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