Silverdome Posted May 17, 2017 Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 If it's the coil check for a small hole worn into it around the mounting band area. That's where I found one one my '48. Vibration over time I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortimer452 Posted May 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 On 5/17/2017 at 5:50 AM, medium_jon said: Any update on this issue? Pulled carb again, couple of the screws holding the top plate of the carb body were stripped, I don't think it was sealing the bowl well, it was very slightly wet with gas on the side of the carb. Drilled and re-tapped the four top plate screws and re-attached with new gasket. Also pulled the distributor, replaced points & condenser, points gap was way off and the vacuum advance was definitely leaking (wouldn't hold vacuum) so I replaced that as well. Went through the timing procedure using the vacuum gauge method. HOLY COW what a difference this made, it's really running strong now. I used to really have to goose it to get it going from first gear at a dead stop, not anymore, just a touch on the accelerator and lift up the clutch and I'm rolling. Starts way easier and idles smoother, nice and low at 450ish rpm. I don't even have to choke to start it cold now, I did before unless it was already warmed up. Made a ~30min trip across town with no issues whatsoever while driving. I pulled into a parking lot to run into a shop, spent maybe 10 minutes inside, when I came back out it cranked and cranked but would not start up. Definitely not getting any fuel. I thought the problem might be vapor lock so I popped the hood and let it sit for another 15 minutes or so and tried again, sure enough, it fired right up. Drove great all the way home! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverdome Posted May 18, 2017 Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 Sounds good. Now to find the reason for vapor locking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medium_jon Posted May 19, 2017 Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 20 hours ago, Mortimer452 said: Pulled carb again, couple of the screws holding the top plate of the carb body were stripped, I don't think it was sealing the bowl well, it was very slightly wet with gas on the side of the carb. Drilled and re-tapped the four top plate screws and re-attached with new gasket. Also pulled the distributor, replaced points & condenser, points gap was way off and the vacuum advance was definitely leaking (wouldn't hold vacuum) so I replaced that as well. Went through the timing procedure using the vacuum gauge method. HOLY COW what a difference this made, it's really running strong now. I used to really have to goose it to get it going from first gear at a dead stop, not anymore, just a touch on the accelerator and lift up the clutch and I'm rolling. Starts way easier and idles smoother, nice and low at 450ish rpm. I don't even have to choke to start it cold now, I did before unless it was already warmed up. Awesome. Thanks for the update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortimer452 Posted May 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 (edited) On 5/18/2017 at 2:42 PM, Silverdome said: Sounds good. Now to find the reason for vapor locking. Yeah, I read through the tech tips section, will try a few things there. I really think I just need to re-route the fuel lines. This motor has factory dual exhaust and the steel line coming out of the fuel pump runs *really* close to the exhaust manifold, less than an inch, maybe even less than half an inch. The steel lines are pretty tough to bend by hand so I may replace with copper/nickel for that section between the fuel pump & carb. Water pump also has a bad bearing I think, every once in awhile I'll hear it groan a bit and it will splatter just a smidge of antifreeze from around the pulley. Will probably replace this and go with a 160* thermostat while I'm at it. Edited May 20, 2017 by Mortimer452 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortimer452 Posted May 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 (edited) Also - can someone tell me what this little switch under the dash is for? Just to the right of the steering column, underside of the dash. Doesn't appear to do anything, but wires go to into the factory harness and it looks like a factory item. **Edit - OK, nevermind, I forget sometimes that I have an extremely informative factory service manual at my workbench to figure out things like this. So, separate switch for the instrument lights? Interesting, I'm not sure under what circumstances I would want to turn on the headlights but not want to illuminate the instrument panel, but hey, whatever Edited May 20, 2017 by Mortimer452 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 The small outside lights were called the "parking lights". I think in some jurisdictions, parking lights had to be on all night where the car was parked in a street. Not too sure, but it makes a case. So, turn on the parking lights, but shut off the instrument lights, to save "juice". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortimer452 Posted May 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 My car has no turn signals. This (vintage?) turn signal was in the trunk, appears complete, the lever is pretty wobbley though and that little wheel on the inside just spins freely, I'm guessing it's for the auto reset feature but not sure it works. Is this worth trying to use or am I better of getting something else? My front orange marker lights are completely disconnected, just wires hanging out of the housing, guessing maybe someone started the job of installing turn signals and never finished. Any wiring help available? Thanks again for all the help on this forum - you guys are the best! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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