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Mortimer452

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Everything posted by Mortimer452

  1. For those interested - the Monroe P00019 mounting studs are a perfect fit, match the originals exactly in standoff thickness and overall length. They are a tight fit in the bottom U-bolt plate, but some very light sanding helped it along. $10 a pair is pretty cheap!
  2. Finally getting around to replacing rear springs & shocks on my '47 Deluxe, rear shock mounts are chowdered up pretty bad. Google isn't turning up much, anyone know a good aftermarket replacement? Also, what shocks does everyone recommend?
  3. What about size, can anyone recommend a size that won't rub on 16" rims?
  4. Any tricks you can offer to removing these old bias ply tires? I cannot for the life of me get the outside bread to break on this first one. Tried soaking it in gas for a day, tried running over it with another car, even tried using my log splitter to smash it down good, still no luck.
  5. Current tires are 650-16 tubed bias ply of unknown age - guessing at least 20+ years old. Valve stem is cracked on the driver rear and leaking fast so finally looking at just replacing all the rubber. I love the wide whitewall look so I'd definitely prefer to stick with that, anyone running bias-look radials? I've found Coker and Diamond Back online with pretty decent prices, anyone running their "bias-look" or regular radials with whitewalls? With 16" rims, what's a good radial size to go with, I'm thinking something like 215/70/R16?
  6. Good luck, on mine these were rusted badly and impossible to remove. The driver side I ended up drilling, passenger side I am soaking it daily with PB Blaster for a few days to see if that helps loosen it up first. Call around a few local locksmiths, ask who's good at really old locks, you might be able to find someone who can work with it still in the car. He won't be able to re-key it while in the car, but he may be able to make a key for it.
  7. Congrats on the purchase, plenty of help available here. And also, we need pics!
  8. Well, I guess maybe not "factory" but when I got the car ('47 Plymouth Deluxe) the engine serial# is P22 (1951) and it has a split exhaust manifold
  9. Now that the weather's getting warmer here in Kansas, getting my workshop ready for another season of wrenching . . . Planning on pulling the motor out of my P15 this summer for a rebuild. It runs pretty well, but it overheats occasionally, burns a little oil, leaks a LOT of oil, and being in unknown condition/age (car was supposedly sitting for 20+ years when I got it) I figure it's time. Called a local machine shop I've used in the past with great results, says he does a couple of these old Mopar flatheads every year so his comfort level is pretty high on these motors. Any suggestions? Not trying to create a rally car or anything but would definitely like to squeeze a few more HP out of it. Edgy does custom camshafts, the old carter BB carb is shot and definitely needs replacing and I figure why not get two along with an Offy intake? Engine has factory dual exhaust.
  10. It's not easy. Search the forums and you'll find a few tricks. There are also a couple different installation tools you can try. See my post below, I used 36 nickels shoved in-between the coils of the spring to expand it enough to hook up both ends. When I closed the hood, the nickels (mostly) just fell out. I did have to jiggle around with it a bit to get them all out.
  11. Well that's just it, I don't have any cowl vent ductwork. The cowl vent itself has a handle underneath the dash, push to open, but it's just a hole. If it weren't for the screen over the cowl vent pop-up, I could reach through the cowl and shake hands with someone laying under the dash.
  12. Cold weather is coming, and I'd hate to leave my P15 sitting in the garage all winter. Gotta get some heat! I'm sure I can get this working, just looking for some info on what I have here. Here's what I've got, black box under the passenger side containing heater core and a fan. I think this is the factory passenger-side heater but may be vintage aftermarket, not totally sure. It has a door on the front to direct air out, and a door on the side to direct air left, has some sortof ductwork cobbled up to that one. When I put 6V to that wire hanging out of the core/fan box it definitely works and moves a ton of air. The switch has got me confused, see pics. Not sure what this coil contraption is on the back, may be a fuse is supposed to go there and it was jury-rigged. It gets hot as hell when I hook up voltage. The switch has four click-positions presumably for low/medium/high/off but when wired up the fan only operates on the second click, all others are off. It has a bulb in the middle but not sure what that could be for since the knob covers it. What about defrost? I appear to be missing some parts here. There are slots in the molding underneath the window, but nothing that looks even remotely like ductwork that would lead up to there.
  13. I would check the carb floats and make sure they're adjusted properly, sounds like that is more likely your problem than vapor-lock
  14. SilverDome I think that looks great, nice job. Now you've got me itching to try this on my dash, the old rusty look just isn't doing it for me.
  15. Great find. Old cars that are "good but not great" are my favorite. Nice enough to turn heads, but not so nice you're afraid to take it out around town. I drive my P-15 almost everywhere.
  16. Both headlights work on low beams, but the passenger side high beam was dead, so I ordered a replacement from Bernbaum's New light works, but I think it's upside down? I adjusted it left/right/up down to match the driver side, looks great on low, but when I kick the highs on, the beam lowers instead of going higher? I end up with the driver side on high and passenger side shining in the dirt in front of the car. Tried just flipping the bulb 180 degrees but it's keyed on the back side and won't fit in the housing upside down.
  17. Definitely interested in hearing some advice/input on this. My dash is in dire need of some attention.
  18. There are a few national traveling shows that usually charge $10 or so for admission for spectators. Many around here are free (I live in Kansas, USA). There's an old shopping mall in my town, every single Friday night from roughly 4-8pm they do a free car show in the parking lot. Bring what you have, sit and hang out, anyone who wants to come look is welcome. Usually around 50 or so cars, with a different 50 every week. I go out there once or twice a month.
  19. Just offering some options, totally understand that. My dealings with him have been . . . inconsistent, shall we say. And yeah, his shipping is definitely on the high side.
  20. Bernbaum appears to have them: http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-front-axle.aspx
  21. Got 'er put back together finally. Started it up and let it run for 10 minutes, lifted it back up and couldn't find a drop of oil anywhere. I'm happy to start driving it again! Decided to go with the factory recommendation of 30wt non-detergent oil. That is some thick stuff compared to Quaker State 10w30.
  22. THANK YOU! I'm in luck, there's an O'Reilly's in a neighboring town that has this seal, less than 30 min drive away. I hate waiting on parts, I have so little time to work on the car lately it really sets things back when I have to order stuff online and wait for it to get here, then wait again for time to do the work. I may get this done over the weekend yet!
  23. Check Ace Hardware plumbing section, they usually have a wall full of O-rings in just about every size you can imagine, I bet you can find something there that will work. Bring the old seal in with you to compare.
  24. Thanks, that's definitely more like the one I have now! I suppose I should stick with that style since I'm sure the same is on the top half and I'm only replacing the lower one right now, I don't think the top can be replaced without pulling the motor. Hopefully this plus the pan gasket will solve my oil leaking problem, or at least reduce it enough to where I can drive across town without losing a quart of oil. Dangit, I was hoping to finish this job over the weekend.
  25. OK, I'm confused. Engine is a P22. It leaks oil like hell, about 2 quarts per tank of gas. I've determined the leaks are from the oil pan gasket, rear main seal and oil pump. I'm on to replacing the lower rear main seal now, ordered the rope seal kit from Bernbaum. Pulled the main bearing cap tonight and it's not quite what I expected - there's a rubber seal in there now, seems to be integrated as part of the retainer as seen in pics below. Did I get the wrong seal? According to the service manual there should be a rope-type seal in there now but there isn't - it has a retainer like the 1946-1952 pic but has a rubber seal attached like the 1953 pic in the manual.
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