P15 rear brake shoe return spring Id. help question

[3046moparcoupe]

The springs on the left side of the attached pic came off the rear of our P15 Club Coupe. I've cleaned em up a bit and overall they seem in descent physical shape (a little pitting and gouges in places), but since I was placing an order to AB, I went ahead and ordered they're replacement spring for a 46 Plymouth,..part # G244,...which are shown on the right side of the pic.

It would be nice to know which (if either  ) look like the original spring intended by Mr Walter C...(they're both basically the same length, the same overall diameter, the hooks align the same, however I don't much care for the way the ends on the replacement springs slide in and out of the main spring body, as you can already tell that the metal is rusting on the hook shaft where it enters the spring body, so future point of failure,...depending on how stout the hook keeper is made inside the spring body, which can't be seen)..

However my main thought was in not wanting to deviate from the spring tension originally designed for these brakes...and these replacement springs are made from a bit heavier gauge rod,....

If you folks who've forgot more than I'll ever know about all this stuff would care to reply back, we'd appreciate it.

thanks again for the raisin'

Steve

 

 

 

[desoto1939]

On the original springs that you show on the right of the picture, if I remember correctly one of the ends slides in and out of the tapered ends and it might be both ends.. I would first check the ends to make sure that the end which has a stopping bend to them and this is the best that I can explain is in good shape and not rusted.  If they are still in good shape them clean the original springs with a wire brush or media blast them with a light blasting medium and then spray them with a clear coat from a  spray can or use a rust preventative spray paint.  I still have the original springs in my 1939 Desoto and they are still strong and not rusted.  I also purchased a couple of years ago the original springs from Frank Mitchell just to have spares.

So if the originals are good then still use them and keep the others as spares.  Just my 25 cents worth of input

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Dodgeb4ya]

Use the ones with the most spring tension!

[3046moparcoupe]

Thanks guys - I appreciate the education,....so DB4ya, it sounds like a specific spring tension is not a super big deal, as your experience has been the more the better,...I appreciate the feedback,....Rich, thanks as well, however question please,....in my picture above,...the shiny springs I wire wheeled, on the left side of the picture,...are the springs that came off our car,.....the black springs on the right side of the pic are the ones I just got from Bernbaum,....as you can see in the pic, the new ones from Bernbaum do have the sliding ends, the ones that came off our car, don't..... from your previous reply, I believe you were saying the springs with the sliding eye ends, on the right side of the picture, are the original type/design springs. Is that correct ?

Steve

[3046moparcoupe]

I just went to the Robert's web site and found something on this under their brake parts section. When I order parts, I always check and compare both my Bernbaum and my Roberts catalogue's......anyway - this time it would appear I got caught with an outdated catalogue, since the pic's in the Robert's Catalogue look identical to what AB's catalogue showed,....however, at the Robert's web site, under brakes - part #T372 (which is not in my catalogue),..they show an exact match for the springs that came off this P15 (above pic, shiny springs on the left side of pic)..and the description says, all PDDC with 10" drums,......the Robert's web site also shows the heavier springs with the sliding/slip type ends (again, pic above, black springs on right side of picture),...as pp#T271, desc:DCPD trucks up to one ton.......

S.

[Jerry Roberts]

Keep in mind that the pictures in both of those catalogs are generic   . They don't show a true photo for each and every item . 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Whats really important is that the springs are correct for the application..

Have strong enough spring tension and really important... spring tension is the same for all springs (shoes will apply and release evenly)

45 lbs or more should be required to get the shoes to just start to pull away from the wheel cylinder push rod..The more the better and all exactly even.

You need to use a spring tension pull gauge to check this.

Getting springs from whoever is a gamble as to if the springs matched in tension strength!

Edited October 16, 2016 by Dodgeb4ya

[desoto1939]

20 hours ago, 3046moparcoupe said:

Thanks guys - I appreciate the education,....so DB4ya, it sounds like a specific spring tension is not a super big deal, as your experience has been the more the better,...I appreciate the feedback,....Rich, thanks as well, however question please,....in my picture above,...the shiny springs I wire wheeled, on the left side of the picture,...are the springs that came off our car,.....the black springs on the right side of the pic are the ones I just got from Bernbaum,....as you can see in the pic, the new ones from Bernbaum do have the sliding ends, the ones that came off our car, don't..... from your previous reply, I believe you were saying the springs with the sliding eye ends, on the right side of the picture, are the original type/design springs. Is that correct ?

Steve

Steve the springs that have the sliding ends are the correct style.

 

Richi