1949 Plymouth - trouble removing master cylinder

[_shel_ny]

Yes shel_ny that what mine looks like.

I guess I assumed I could remove the pin and pull the master cyclist out from below the car without having to take the brake pedal arm with it.

While I WAS able to get the pushrod part of the brake pedal arm off, the larger pivot point isn't able to be slid out horizontally due to no clearance between the frame.

Haven't managed to get back to the car to get the floor out. But I'm sure all will come out easy one the floor pan isn't in the way.

So much help here thank you forum!

Again, not sure if 49 is the same, but on 48  D24  that large pin that the brake pedal arm slides onto is a very snug fit in the master cylinder. 48 has a bushing in the pedal arm. If you have one be careful not to damage it.  It is thin.

[Franklyn49]

well as an update....

I attempted removal from below (without removing floor pan)

It turns out this has proven to be geometrically impossible in my setup.

due to the shape of the brake pedal arm, and location of the m/c,  

there isn't enough clearance to "thread the arm down out of the floor and drop the m/c at the same time. 

 

So removing floor pan.

Have removed all floor pan bolts, brake & clutch pads.

Now just to somehow get at the throttle linkage bolts from below... and holy **** wow they are hard to get at. that's a tight spot!

I'm giving it a rest for the night.

Edited August 17, 2016 by Franklyn49

[pflaming]

I remain a novice at this hobby but I have learned a great deal. Getting to and removing bolts and assemblies, for me, is the hardest part of this hobby. If the body is removed the task is MUCH easier. My current suburban is without the floor boards in the front. The access that has provided has been incredible. 

 

Mechanical enthusiasts have built this hobby and to them I give full credit, but their ways are not law. A dremmel and a quality jig saw will get you to a lot of very difficult spots, remove that part of the floor and repair in relative ease, then weld it back shut, coat it, and cover it with sound deadener. No one is the wiser but you have eased the task. Now if perfection is your thing, go for it, that is to be appreciated as well. 

 

 

A novice enjoying the hobby in a very practical way. 

[DonaldSmith]

I took out my floor panel to replace the rear motor mounts, and had to disconnect the Jiffy-Jet pump and the wiring to the mechanical brake light switch.  No more! I made a sub-panel for those two items, so that they would remain undisturbed if and when the floor panel comes up again.  Alternatively, I can access the pump and switch without removing the entire panel.

 

   

 

(That's the accelerator linkage to the right of the brake pedal arm.  It's fun threading the end of the accelerator linkage through the hole in the floor panel when reinstalling the panel.  Tie a string around the end of the linkage and thread the string through the hole in the panel, to guide the end as the panel is placed.)  

Edited August 17, 2016 by DonaldSmith

[Franklyn49]

thanks for the guidance folks!

even with the frame mounted clutch pivot,  I did have to remove the floor pan.

M/c is now rebuilt and all is coming back together slowly 

[Rex Foster]

does anyone know steps to remove master cylinder from 1935 Plymouth pj

[squirebill]

Franklyn49,  your pain in summer of 2016 was my pain in winter of  2020.  Glad I had this forum to reference.  I did what you did and tried to remove the MC from below.  Disconnected the two brake lines at the rear of the MC and removed the three mounting bolts.  Tried to figure out how to slide off the brake pedal arm from the MC but no room.  The clutch rods and various mounts were in the way as well as the shift rods for the transmission.  At that point I consulted this forum and saw that step one seemed to be "remove the floor pan".  Naturally, the previous owner glued the carpet down when he replaced it.  Although the parts manual says the floor pan is attached with hex head bolts mine had philips head bolts with the philips head drives filled with carpet glue.  Once they were finally removed ran into the problem of the throttle linkage bracket that is mounted to the floor pan from the back up by the steering column.  Got them out from below using a 7/16 socket on 1/4 drive extensions that totaled about 14 inches long.   Once the throttle linkage bracket was disconnected form the floor pan was able to remove the floor pan and wiggle the throttle linkage out with it still being connected to the gas pedal mount.  As stated above , once the floor pan was removed the master cylinder/pedal assembly practically flew out of the car.  Thanks for this forum and your input.  Regards to all. 

[Eric]

On 8/15/2016 at 7:21 PM, JerseyHarold said:

When replacing the master cylinder in my '52 Plymouth, I left the floor panel in place, took the pedal pads off and then removed the pedal arms, pivot, and master cylinder as an assembly from under the car.