Cylinder water outlet elbow removal difficulty

[toddbracik]

1946 D24:

The cylinder water outlet elbow, as it's called in the manual, houses the thermostat. On my engine, it is held to the cylinder head with studs rather than bolts and I am having problems removing it so I can replace the thermostat. Does anyone know of a trick to remove this cylinder outlet elbow when studs are involved? I can't seem to break it free. I've already used plenty of of penetrating oil. Also, are the studs screwed into the cylinder head?

[Plymouthy Adams]

_{have you tried the application of the oxy/acetylene torch and heating the nuts and thus breaking the rust bond...}

[Jarv69]

I just did that this weekend. I was unable to get mine off without snapping the studs that are threaded into the head. Mines out of the car and disassembled so with it being in the car I would heat it and use caution and if they snap I highly recommend that you bring the head in to have it tapped and rethreaded and use a good quality even stainless bolts

[Don Coatney]

Todd; It appears studs were also used on the head of this engine but I see you were able to remove the head. I assume you got the nuts off of the studs holding down the goose neck. Try heating the studs cherry red and then touch them with candle wax. The wax will be sucked into the space between the stud and gooseneck and hopefully break the rust bond.

 

 

PS, don't lose your head doing this job.

 

[austinsailor]

I've gotten several that were stuck like that off. I assume you have the nuts off, but rust, etc. is keeping it from being pried up.

Strange as it may sound, the secrets is to put the nuts back on (clean the threads real well first, might not be bad to lub them a bit) then alternate between tightening it down real tight, not enough to break the stud, but enough to hopefully squish the gasket a tiny bit. Then drive a wedge of some sort (small flat screwdriver or similar) into the gasket in an attempt to raise it up. The first few times you may not see any movement. Alternate ends next to each bolt. Tighten, loosen, drive the wedge, remove the wedge. Move back and forth, repeat until it's off. Be aware that the stud may be weak from corrosion down in the hole, so don't over tighten.

Heat and the penetrants mentioned might help.

They will come off, but you might be an hour or two at this before getting there.

Don't give up quickly if at first you notice no movement, it can be too little to see for a while, but I've never had it fail.

Gene

Edited December 9, 2015 by austinsailor

[toddbracik]

Took the advice of using a torch and candle wax.

I was able to back out the studs with a pair of vice grips.

Cleaned it up with a wire brush and painted it silver...

Thanks for the help guys!