Auxilary Gauges in Pilothouse?

[Darkrider]

As i have mentioned in my build thread i plan on converting the truck to 12 volt...Which brings me to a new problem in the form of trying to figure out where to place a new Voltage gauge to monitor the new alternator. Been racking my brain trying to sort out a location that doesnt look like it was just added as an after thought nor look like a hack job. I keep coming back to the blank section of metal on the drivers side of the dash near where the optional radio would be. I ended up using the delete plate for that area for a switch panel when i added my toggle switch for the coil and will probably add my indicator light for the alternator in the delete plate as well. I also want to add a tach but i was planning on using a column mounted type for that so its in my line of sight when i look down towards the speedometer. With that all said...Those of you who have added extra or updated gauges to supplement your stock cluster what locations have you used? Pictures of said locations would be quite welcome!

[NiftyFifty]

I actually had my tach mounted up above my head on the curve of the plate above the windshield, and no reason a volt gauge couldn't go there. It hid it from where people would look in at shows and only if you looked from the psgr side could you notice. No pics tho, and since have changed everything in there.

[B1B Keven]

You're amp gauge will work with an alternator.

[Darkrider]

I actually had my tach mounted up above my head on the curve of the plate above the windshield, and no reason a volt gauge couldn't go there. It hid it from where people would look in at shows and only if you looked from the psgr side could you notice. No pics tho, and since have changed everything in there.

 

I can kinda sort of picture what you are talking about in my head. Im assuming you are refering to the section of sheet metal where the visors are mounted as well correct? One idea that was tossed past me at one point was building an overhead console out of tubing that followed the roof line but allowed me to leave the roof exposed since i have no headliner left...hmmmm def need to think about this a bit more...

 

You're amp gauge will work with an alternator.

 

Even if said alt is a higher out put unit then the original Generator? Since said alt is from a mid 70s GM truck i am suspecting its going to be around 60+ amps in output.

 

 

One idea i have kicked around a few times already is to use a similar mounting cup to what i would be using for the tach and just mounting both the voltage gauge and the tach to the column.

[Don Coatney]

Not sure why you need to install an alternator with a high amperage output as the load on your vehicle is nowhere near 60 amps even with everything running at the same time. And the alternator is regulated to only put out the required amperage to maintain the battery.

[NiftyFifty]

Yes, just to the left of the visor mount! Couldn't get that description to come out! Lol. Why wouldn't you use a 80-100 amp alternator? Their cheap, their just as easy, if not easier to get and a 100 amp allows for way more opportunity for accessories if you should ever decide, and especially if you upgrade a lot of the lighting and have turn signals, they draw a lot when everything is on. Underpowering makes no sense when you can get more then you need for the same price and work. Also a volt gauge is actually an indication of what's going on for charging and or not, and also you can watch the draw when everything is on....and amp gauge does nothing...it basically says it's either charging or nothing...no real in between. There's a good reason everything went volt as 12 volt became the normal systems.

[B1B Keven]

A stock gauge will take 50 amps. If you're only running the lights and heater you'll be fine.

If you've got a large amp for the stereo, it might not work.

[Darkrider]

Not sure why you need to install an alternator with a high amperage output as the load on your vehicle is nowhere near 60 amps even with everything running at the same time. And the alternator is regulated to only put out the required amperage to maintain the battery.

 

Im only guessing what the output of the alternator is. It is a stock unit from a mid 70s-early 80s GM 1 ton truck. Cant recall the year of the truck off hand but usually it seemed like vehicles of that era had around a 50-65 Amp alternator in them.

 

Yes, just to the left of the visor mount! Couldn't get that description to come out! Lol. Why wouldn't you use a 80-100 amp alternator? Their cheap, their just as easy, if not easier to get and a 100 amp allows for way more opportunity for accessories if you should ever decide, and especially if you upgrade a lot of the lighting and have turn signals, they draw a lot when everything is on. Underpowering makes no sense when you can get more then you need for the same price and work. Also a volt gauge is actually an indication of what's going on for charging and or not, and also you can watch the draw when everything is on....and amp gauge does nothing...it basically says it's either charging or nothing...no real in between. There's a good reason everything went volt as 12 volt became the normal systems.

 

Im getting the alternator for either extremely cheap if not all out free from an old friend of my dads. It was replaced in the vehicle it came out of because they thought it was the problem with that truck but it turned out the charging issue stemmed from a wiring problem not the alt. However...Going about it this way will at least get the truck set up for an alt and i can always replace it with a higher output unit later on if there is a need for increased power. Ok i can kinda picture where you mean now..so up high where the visor bolted to essentially...hmmm I also did some looking at the truck earlier and played with positions of the shifter to see if i could safely mount anything under the center of the dash and it appears i could possibly hang one if not two mounting cups under there....One thought i have played with since i looked at the truck today is mounting the Tach in place of the dash mounted speaker location and running a cup under the dash on the passenger side for the volt gauge if not mounted on the column like i was going to do with the tach.

 

A stock gauge will take 50 amps. If you're only running the lights and heater you'll be fine.

If you've got a large amp for the stereo, it might not work.

 

Im not going to be using an amp at all if i even put a stereo in. And more then likely i will switch as many of the lights to LED as possible, combined with a 4300K HID headlight set up that will only be drawing a max of 35 Watts vs the standard 55 watts in halogens. Bonus part about HID kits is that they put out a ton more light output while drawing less power. Sure HIDs and LEDs are not "era" correct but ill trade off that for the increased safety thanks to the increased visibility. So you are most likely correct i will prob have far less then a 50 amp draw.

Edited August 14, 2015 by Darkrider

[Jeff Balazs]

I thought about adding a voltmeter when I put the alternator in my truck. But to be honest the altenator works so well it just isn't needed. To me at least this has been pretty much a fit and forget installation. It always keeps up and that is with several accessories. Oh yeah...... I am still running a 6 volt positive ground system ..... just powered by an alternator.

 

Jeff

[NiftyFifty]

If your going LED's remember that you need a heavier draw on the flasher, or it won't flash, even with a LED flasher, it still not set up to work with a regular 7 wire turn switch. You can buy led resistors, but I didn't have great luck with them...ended up adding bulbs under the hood and at the rear buried in the frame rails. That made them work great and bright. I migh have just got bad resistors at Back to the 50's too tho.